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 Photo courtesy of Peter Daws by grets
We have heard of the calls the indri makes of course, but nothing prepares you for the thrill of the shrill! What a racket! It is such a haunting sound, chilling, moving, exciting and easily the most unforgettable experience from Madagascar. Later on in the evening, we can hear their song in the distance as we enjoy a sun-downer on the terrace. Wow! Leave a Comment
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 by belgianchocolate
'The people' I can't say it enough...they are fantastic.
In general the Malagasy will do anything to make your trip something fantastic. I feel very lucky to speak some basic french and to be able to do some conversations. (I did feel comfortable speaking French in Madagascar since it is their second language as well). English travelers we've met did feel like it was a big disadvantage not to be able to speak French - However , people will talk whatever they picked up in English to help you for sure. And even if French is the second official language in Madagascar...not everybody speaks it.
We choose to keep the same taxidriver for a couple of days and asked him to pick us up at the hotel...they helped to find a hotel , adviced us on restaurants and local places , brought us to the national parcs sometimes , did the big trip of the island. It was nice to get to know them a little bit better. In our experience , Malagasy are very punctual. Nothing elastic time. If you arranged to get picked up at that hour...there they were.
If I can give you one advice is...never get mad and shout. I've seen it a couple of times , without any reason. And they just collapse. They don't know how to handle angry people. It is much much easier to smile , and keep smiling and tell them what you had expected and (even the angry people) you will get what you want if possible. And in Madagascar everything is possible.
(In the picture you can see Frederik and Monique. Our guide in the national parc near Andasibe. She was great fun , a fantastic guide and she told us how to get back to Tana...etc) Leave a Comment
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We booked our little trip at 'King de la piste' in Antsiranana (Diego Suarez) and we were very statisfied about the service. Jacques was a fantastic driver and guide and what the girls in this field kitchen could do with basic ingredients , we call that magic!
This is how our programme looked like. It is negociabled with the guide , you can leave something behind or add something extra. You'll leave from Diego to Ankarana in the morning and you'll arrive just after noon at the camp. We stayed at Andrafiabe camping ground - named after the village nearby. After dinner we went walking , exploring the caves nearby. 3 caves , amazing caves.
In the evening we went for a nocturnal walk. That was something we insisted on ourselves. The next day we went up early for a long walk to the top of the tsingy. You'l have an amazing view over the green lake. There aren't too many other people and birds are so not used to people that they come and sit next to you to have a close look.. In the late afternoon we went to a cave for swimming and relaxing.
The last day , we started slowly. A little walk , some climbing into the canyon nearby , up and down , up and down...to end our walk where a underground river would come up and dive under the tsingy again. We had a fantastic time swimming here. After noon we left for Diego again.
I promise to build a page on this parc , since it is worth it for sure. Leave a Comment
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Let me take you to 'Ankarana special reserve' or 'réserve spéciale de l"ankŕrana' in French. (if you want to pronounce it in Malagasy , leave the last a hehind and say something like Ankarn) This réserve is considered among the most adventurous of all. The réserve is very close to the rainforest of Montagne d'Ambre , but oh so different. About 100 km south of Diego Suarez is the Ankarana massif. The Tsingy of Ankarana - Tsingy are karst or limestone pinnacles This massif is about 30 km long and surrounded by dry forest. Trees and wildlife here are adjusted to a long dry period and periods of heavy rain. From mai to december is the dry season , but Jacques our guide told us that they first call to know when the season opens.
We visited the western side of the parc , which is hard to reach and even not possible during the rainy season.Only 4x4 can make it here. But we choose to go that way since this was the most rewarding site for scenery. Fauna and flora are not as abundant as in the rainforest BUT are easier to spot.
Don't expect any luxury here. We stayed for two nights in a tent. Days are sizzling hot here and nights acceptable pleasant. There are basic toilets and a 'douche Africaine'. (take a bucket and a beker - there is your douche).We stayed at the 'Andrafiabe camping ground'. There are 4 spots where it is allowed to camp. You get up in the morning very early to avoid the 'no mercy' -policy of the sun since it takes some effort to see the tsingy. Watch out for the scorpions (nightactive and large) - they are not mortal , but you'll remember it for the rest of your life if you get bitten.
I'm not the fittest person in the world , but I was willing to do the effort. It was sometimes a hard walk , difficult to climb...etc. But it was all so rewarding. The scenery is amazing. I enjoyed the isolation and the 'lonely planet' feeling here. But I realise that this is not suitable for everybody. (go when your young and healthy. ;-)) Leave a Comment
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Madagascar's unique fauna and flora is what made me want to visit the island. And I'm quit sure that I'm not alone. There is something weird concerning Madagascar's fauna and flora. 400 km of water is separating Madagascar from the African mainland but there is 165 million years of evolution that drifts Madagascar away from the rest of the world. Some people even call it the seventh continent. And there is something in it.
You'll meet endemic animals everywhere. I saw this beautiful chameleon in the garden of the hotel near the airport. Or snakes resting on the road at night to soak up the last heath before going hunting for frogs...
Madagascar is as interesting for it's mammals as for it's insects. Everything (especially to a European) seems wonderful and special and rare... And most of all , Madagascar's animals are approachable. They are nice , just like the people. Sometimes even curious to visitors. We did see more then we expected to see during our visits to the national parcs.
Now , I've visited 3 of them and I'll put some time and effort to tell you how we've visited , what we've seen and every information I think might be useful.
How about that? Leave a Comment
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 by belgianchocolate
We did sence some difference with people in the city , people in the north and central Madagascar in looks and behavior. To me Madagascar is a big mixture of cultures and differences.
But I feel like telling that in general they are optimistic with a good sence of humor , a big smile. They are not loud .... and in general very honest. Be aware of those infected by too many tourists near beach resorts , near mayor public attractions. Where did they get those bad habbits?
Let's face it. Madagascar is a poor country. People have less then nothing compared to you. If you do some effort you can make some difference. Work with local travel agents , buy food at the market and in local restaurants. Stay at local hotels.... The money you'll leave behind is often more then welcome. And the best way to show your gratitude is by tipping. A small small amount of money given to the boy who lifted your luggage on the taxi brousse will generate the biggest smile ever. And that might just be an amount of money where you wouldn't bend for in europe to pick it of the street if you saw it lying in front of your feet.
(The picture shows Ahmed , a taxidriver in Diego on one of our first days , we went for a walk at the montagne des francais and he climbed in a tree to get us some fruit of the boabab...a very nice guy) Leave a Comment
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 one f the track at Vohipara by JustinJansenLeave a Comment
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 Boabtree at Ifaty by JustinJansen
Best time of a day to walk is early morning ore later in the afternoon as it is mostly hot during the day, it is an unforgatable experience! Leave a Comment Directions: Mr Mossa, Ifaty just ask the people he can guide you around and show you everything here!
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Montagne d'Ambre was the first of the national parcs visited by us. It is a montane rainforest - meaning that it is found between 800 and 1300 high. The difference between lowland rainforest? It has tree ferns , spectacular to watch , bamboo is common , leaves are smaller an tougher ...etc.
Why we enjoyed montagne d'ambre?
A guide is not obligatory here. We probably would have seen more with a guide , but since we were going to visit 2 other national parcs were guides are obligate we choose not too. We even decided to stay for 2 nights. Aren't we brave? Frederik gave himself the title of 'mister Madagascar adventure 2005'. The camping place here is a stunning location , an open area with shelters in the middle of the forest - 3 km from the entrance of the parc and 7 km from Joffreville - the nearest ex-colonial village.
It is because of that village , that used to be a pleasure resort for the French military , that the rainforest here isn't 100% pure. There is a botanical trail and some species don't really belong on Madagascar.
Did we see wildlife? Yes we did. The montagene d'Ambre is among the most accesible of the Madagascar national parcs. If there is a cruise ship in Antsiranana (Diego Suarez) they will all visit the parc. They drive into the parc , walk hunderd meters to the sacred waterfall and walk back - eat what the cooks left behind on the camping site serve them and leave. They didn't bother us too much. Space enough. The first day we found the 3 waterfalls , the highest plunges 80m deep into a fern filled grotto-shape U-turn and was reached by us after half an hour steep walk. (not recommended when it would rain). Leave a Comment
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 Fenoloka (Civet Cat) at
Ramanofana by JustinJansen
Real special is the feeding of mouse lemurs and Fenoloka's in dusk at a feeding spot!
They can be observed at close range from here! Leave a Comment Address: Ask the guides
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