Cape Maclear Transportation

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Some of the locals have small boats, and beach boys often try to sell guided tours or other trips to tourists. A man offered me the trip from Cape Maclear to Senga bay, another resort on the western side of Lake Malawi, for 120 USD. I tried to bargain, but he wouldn't accept a lower price. The trip should take 3 hours with the boat on picture 1 (25 horse power engine).

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Dugout conoe is a hollowed tree trunk. Dugouts canoes are paddled in Lake Malawi, and are mostly used for fishing and transport. It's the most common means of communication in the lake. I had the pleasure to try this canoe in the lake. I thought it would be original and fun to try an African dugout canoe instead of the plastic canoe.
The dugout canoe is heavy and slow, and it's not easy to handle and keep steady. You shall sit on top of the canoe, and make sure your weight is right in the center. Your legs will be in the hole. It's best you try without shoes because it will be water inside the canoe. The first time I tried it the canoe rotated and all people fell into the water. I'm glad I did't carry my camera or mobil phone. After one hour we managed the special technique, and headed for Thumbe island. The island is one km from the beach, and the trip took one hour. And one hour back to the beach. It was once in a lifetime and never again. My bottom was terrible for days.

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The road from Monkey Bay to Cape Maclear goes on a gravelled road through the jungle and crossing a hill. It's a very bumpy, but fun and picturesque travel. It takes about 30-40 minutes, and costs 1500 MKW (10 USD) per person on the back of a pick-up (locals pay less). Make sure to be at Monkey Bay before dark because the regular transports don't drive after dark. If not, ask locals in Monkey Bay to drive. The price is high, and there are small chances to bargain. And Monkey Bay has nothing to offer tourists. (The vehicles are often pick-ups and 4-wheel drive cars since the roads are so bad. August 2009).

There is only public transport from Monkey Bay to Cape Maclear when the road is in good conditions. In ten years I’ve seen this only once!
Usually you have to travel on the back of a pickup (together with other 25 people and their luggage ). The trip will take about one hour and can be a nightmare or big fun.

The first pick up leaves at 7.00 am but there is a second BIG truck leaving at 8.00 am from the market. Locals pay 80 Mkw to Monkey Bay. (2004)

To travel as far as Lilongwe on the same day you need to get on the first pickup in the morning if you want to manage it during daytime!

There is only one bus is leaving Monkey Bay for Lilongwe. This one is leaving very early in the morning. Don´t think about leaving Cape Maclear in the morning to reach Lilongwe during days light.
The road from Monkey Bay via Mangochi to Liwonde Turn Off is full of potholes making the trip extremely slow.