A truck leaves every afternoon near "Ulenje´s Cafe´". Thats the building near the "Condom-Wall". Its more pleasent because its not that packed than the pick up, but always take the first vehicle leaving, it might be the last one for that day!
To reach Cape MacLear (Chembe Village)you need to find a pick up / truck to travel with. A few times a day they leave from Monkey Bay! Near the bus stop is an empty looking building, where usually some locals are sitting in front it, waiting for transport.
Thats the place for the pick up. Prce is 100 MKW. (Check with the locals and don´t listen to the touts!)
If you want to book tickets for the Ilala II try to go there a day before. On the day of departure the ticket office will be very busy. The office for first class deck and cabin class is the same as for the second class but you are allowed the use the door on the backside of the building. You don´t have to queue up on the front side! To get to the “magic” door you have to get behind the fence. Walk to the gate main gate and ask the watchman to show you the door!
If you want to book ahead you can try: Malawi Lake Services; P.O. Box 15; Monkey Bay; Tel. 587311
The road from Monkey Bay via Mangochi to Liwonde Turn Off is full of potholes making the trip extremely slow.
The road from Monkey Bay to Dedza is not worth be called a road. There is no public transport!