This is all very complicated and we shouldn’t forget about some people that say that Algeria only gives force to Polisario because they want a piece of the Atlantic… Algeria want Atlantic… I don’t want to be turning this text to any political statement, but I’m trying to follow my logic from stuff I hear and see on the road, after visiting Mauritania and Western Sahara 4 times and more than 14 times to Morocco.
To get to Bir Moghrein you have to drive north from Zouerat 440km of desert tracks, mountains and black rocks that makes you think you're in another planet. Bir Moghrein is something like a military post and has nothing really to see but indeed a lot to experience with amazing local people that unfortunately have a rough life and also landscapes.
This is the route you should make to get there:
Atar -> Choum +-120km
Choum -> Touajil -> Fderik -> Zouerat +-250km
Zouerat -> Bir Moghrein +-440km
After is the route to Morocco trough Gueltat Zemmour
Bir Moghrein -> Fortress on the border with Western Sahara +-56km
Fortress on the border with Western Sahara -> “Le Mure” +-40km
Heres on on-line maps of Mauritania:
Map of Mauritania 1
Map of Mauritania 2
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Bir Moghrein is a lost village somewhere in the North of Mauritania. Its was an old military Spanish post and still a fortress can be seen exactly on the virtual border with Mauritania and the unprotected area of the Moroccan Western Sahara.
Here I hope I will instruct in all someone needs to know about how to get to Bir Moghrein and possibly make the route to enter Western Sahara. I should always remind that from when I passed there until the present date of Feb 05, at least 2 European groups of travellers were kidnapped and taken hostage and asked for money to the authorities of their native countries. One group was from Germany and the other was from The Nederland. I know also that in the South part of the country, a group of travellers from Qatar were kidnapped and taken from the no mans land between Mauritania and Mali South east part. Also in the beginning of the year a traveller was almost shot and his car taken away from him in a major city on the Mauritanian coast right inside his camping place.
Bir Moghrein is located on the Northern region of Tiris-Zemmour and this is the way to get to Tindouf resistant and refugees from Western Sahara back from the 80´s and 70´s. This refugee camp is about 20,000 people and full of new generations that never actually went to Western Sahara (although pride goes beyond all and they say they will never go even if the Moroccan Government wants them. Latest news say Moroccan King Mohammad VI is trying to bring those people back to Morocco, their living conditions should be much better for them. Even Moroccans say “what are they doing there with Algerians? They should come to their country.
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You can get a taxi shared one of course to take you to NKT or to bring you from the capital. I once saw some autralians that payed each 1500UM to come from Atar to NKT. i've talked to other people and they told me they payed 2000UM. Maybe depends of the number of people inside the car. The more people inside the pick up truck you'll go, the cheaper. try to tell the owner to wait a bit more to low the price.
i know i say some place to rent bikes. just ask in town. im sure you can rent a bike and go to chinguetti with it. very nice experience this one should be.