Mauritania Off The Beaten Path

  Plenty of diesel and petrol. Pic by...
by pfsmalo
 
  • Plenty of diesel and petrol. Pic by hpy36.
      Plenty of diesel and petrol. Pic by...
    by pfsmalo
  • Sandstorm close by the Gare du Nord.
      Sandstorm close by the Gare du Nord.
    by pfsmalo
  • First pothole!! 2 rims in one go!!!!!
      First pothole!! 2 rims in one go!!!!!
    by pfsmalo
  • The Gare du Nord.
      The Gare du Nord.
    by pfsmalo
  • Another of the many Malian refugees in Mauritania.
      Another of the many Malian refugees in...
    by pfsmalo
 

Reviews from VirtualTourist Members

Tidjikja - Chinquetti, driving in the sanddunes

by sachara

Driving in the sanddunes ! It was spectacular ! Sanddunes at all sides ! The driving in these sanddunes was very exciting and breathtaking. We were speachless, the only thing we did, was yelling ''wow, oooh and aah''.We were in the second car and had to follow the track of the first. Baba our guide sat in the first car to show us the best way. We had to follow at some distance in case the first car got stuck in the soft sands. Sometimes we couldn't see anymore the first car behind the dunes, but the fresh track was luckily very clear, so we didn't lose each other.

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Tidjikja-Chinquetti, 4WD or walking

by sachara

We did the desert crossing between Tidjikja and Chinquetti-Atar with two 4 WDs. The first time I heard of this wonderful desert region in Mauritania, was when I heard of the possibilty of crossing this area by feet. I talked with the Dutch organisation HTreizen, which organised this crossing.It sounded like a fascinating desert trek, walking through canyons, endless plains, sanddunes and rocks. The distance of 250 KM between Terjit (not far from Atar) to Tidjikja would take 12 walking days. I was fascinated about it, but was afraid I could not manage it myself. So year after year after year I decided not to go. But if you are interested in this incredible trekking, look at the link www.htwandelreizen.nlWhen I saw finally the possibilty to cross this area by car, organised by transsahara www.transsahara.nl I didn't hesitate any longer. Finally being in the desert in reality, I knew I made...

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Tidjikja-Chinquetti, black rocks and palmtrees

by sachara

The wadi north of Rachid was very scenic, not only because of the many palmtrees, but also because the deep black boulders and rocks. I really enjoyed the rough beauty of this area.We were happy with Baba, our perfect guide. It's impossible and dangerous to drive this 350 KM long route between Tidjikja and Chinquetti without a good guide. It is advisable to travel at least with two vehicles. And it is necessary to bring enough supplies, especially water and diesel. Allthough we had more than enough water, we bought 2 boxes, 24 bottles extra in Tidjikja. Even back in Spain we drunk still mineral water from Tidjikja. Quite a few unprepared foreigners have died on this route, we red in the lonely planet. And Baba told us that last summer two French travellers and their guide died because of lack of water after they stranded with their only one car, which broke down.

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Tidjikja -Chinquetti, wadi north of Rachid

by sachara

North of Rachid we followed a wadi for a rather long time. In this wadi it was possible to drive rather fast. At this part of the track we saw a lot of traditional tents of the Moorish nomads, mostly in the shade of the palmtrees in the wadi.There were also some boys with small herds of goats and sheep around. And of course we saw camels. There was even a pickup in the wadi. It was the only car, we saw at this route of 350 KM, where rarely vehicles are seen between Tidjikja and Chinquetti.

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Rachid, sleepy village in the sand

by sachara

Nowadays Rachid, 35 KM north of Tidjikja, doesn't look at all as a place, you have to fear because of pillage. In the contrary it looked as a dusty and sleepy village. We didn't see many people around in the sandy surroundings of the buildings. They all prefer to stay inside their houses and little shops. In the area of Rachid must be a great collection of rock engravings. But we didn't take the time to go there for a visit. We only passed here with the aim to reach the deserttowns in the north within two or three days.

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Rachid, palmeraie in the desert

by sachara

From the top of the mountains near the watertower we had splendid views at the wadi and the palmeraies. Baba told us, that it is great to visit Rachid during the date harvest in summer.In the 18th century Rachid was a citadel, overlooking the wadi, which was used for pillage of the caravans passing this area between the Adrar region in the north and the Tagant region in the south.

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Rachid, watertower

by sachara

After we climbed the rough and rocky track, we were very surprised to see a truck at the top. It was the first vehicle we saw after our departure from Tidjikja. Even more surprised we were to see that this watertower was constructed in the middle of nowhere.What we didn't know in the second car, that Baba has guided us to Rachid, a town 35 KM north of Tidjikja. At the michelin map the track from Tidjikja to the desert towns Atar and Chinquetti in the north was a few KM more west from Rachid.

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Sandy track from Kankossa to Sani

by sachara

Some parts of the track from Kankossa to the north and west were very sandy. Luckily our two 4WDs had no problem at all to cross those soft sands. It was an amazing feeling to be here and to do this with two Dutch cars. After some time we reached a badly paved road with many potholes, near Sani. And after a trip of 4 hours we were surprised to see a smooth asphalt road again, which was leading into the town of Kiffa. Our one-and-half day tour off-road from Kayes to Kifffa was completed.The next part of the trip from Kiffa to Tidjikja is described at the ''must see activity" tips.

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Track from Kankossa to Sani

by sachara

The track, we were following from the Kankossa area to Kiffa, was not leading straight to the north, but bended after some time to the west. We had no other choice, so we followed these tracks. It was again a pleasant route through undulating grasslands with scattered acacia trees.Like yesterday we didn´t see any other traffic, we just followed the most used and fresh track. Sometimes we saw some herds.

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Village near Kankossa

by sachara

At the westside of the river was a small village, where we saw the sign Kankossa 2 at one of the buildings. Though it was very early in the morning, maybe around 7 am, there was a French speaking schoolboy around. He could explain us in which direction in the sandy and dusty village with scattered huts, tents and small buildings we could find our way out in the right direction and track to the north, to Kiffa.Early in the morning we didn´t see any small shop or streetstall for buying some food or fresh bread. We had to wait till Kiffa for shopping.

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Reviews and photos of Mauritania attractions posted by real travelers and locals. The best tips for Mauritania sightseeing.

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Q:  Greetings! I have a friend living in Nouakchott, and I'd like to visit her. I'm living in NY now, and I worry a bit about... 

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A: Well, as a foreigner you will stand out. but if you will stay in Nouakchoutt, security concerns should not keep you away. There are certainly areas to avoid as a... 

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