Zagora Things to Do

One of the tourist sights of Zagora is the sign that points Timbuktu (Timbuctou) 52 Jours (days) - the time taken by the old camel train to travel between these 2 trading posts.

I was expecting to see the old faded tin sign, instead, we were shown a newly painted picture on a wall, which is a sort of copy of the legendary old monument. I was a bit disappointed that the original sign wasn't still there (much to the amusement of some of my fellow travellers!!), and after enduring a camel ride of a fraction of the time taken to travel on this journey, I was quite in awe of the old time travellers.

I tried to find out from our guide what had happened to the old sign, and when it was replaced, but he wasn't too forthcoming, the only answer I got was that the old sign was old and difficult to read.

2 more images

We arrived at our camp as dusk was falling. There were many similar camps dotted around the vicinity, but far enough away as to not be too obtrusive.

On the way, we'd seen a few 4x4's whizz along the desert road hmmm- next time I'll know the way to travel! and near to our tent was parked an old camper van.

We dismounted en masse, and after collecting our bags and sleeping bags, we sprawled over the carpeted area of our accomodation for the night, unpacking our bags to find torches etc, then our packed beer/wine etc!
The camels were being led away for food and then to be settled down for the night.

1 more image

Once we left the road, we headed over scrubland, passing small holdings and a small lake, where children were swimming.
Every so often we'd be met by groups of children, some shouting Hello or more usually Bon Jour, the braver ones asking for bon bons or stylos (which we'd been advised not to give - there is a concern that as there is a shortage of dental care, sweets could cause tooth decay(Hmmmm- not the ton of sugar consumed with each pot of mint tea then!and begging for pens etc. could me more profitable than going to school) As we were due to visit a school later in the trip, I'd come armed with a few boxes of pens, which I was intending to give to one of the teachers. Exercise books, sports equipment etc are also welcomed.

I was starting to get used to the rhythm of the camels gait, but was aware this wasn't the most comfortable mode of transport. No matter how much I changed my position, the camels spine didn't get any more comfortable - no consolation that my derriere wasn't as padded as I thought it was!

3 more images

Since the ksar village has not been lived in for 20 years the mosque in the ksar is also able to be visited which is also an interesting opportunity to take, as there are few mosques open to non-muslims
(consecrated or working mosques in Morocco open for visits for non-muslims are only the stunning Hassan II in Casablanca, and the Tin Mal mosque on the Asni road near TizinTest)

There was a 25 metre deep water well to provide water needed for washing for those entering the mosque and it currently had bats flying around in it, (which to my delight showed up for the picture!!),
the old bucket using for either heating water or storing water was also still in the ruins of the mosque and when i suggested to Abdel my guide ifrom Riad Ksar Malal that it would make a nice accessory for displaying plants or something in the riad garden he replied that it couldnt be removed from the mosque!
See also the prayer hall and its horseshoe pillars and the mihrab - and the hole in the ground where Abdel said the money or 'treasure' of the community would be kept for safe keeping where thieves or bandits would not dare to take it from.

4 more images

If like me you drive with maps that show the scenic routes then you will see that on the Zagora to Mhamid road that the section from Jebel Bani through the town of Tagounite and over Beni Selmane pass to Mhamid is marked as a scenic route.

My various guide books refer to Tizi Beni Selmane, with an altitude to 747 metres, as 'dramatic' with good views to Jebel Bani and surrounds.

Id not been south of Tamegroute so i wanted this time to see this scenic route to Mhamid! When you see the flat flat terrain that is the terrain between Tamegroute and around Tagounite the jebel Bani range certainly stands out as dramatic and you can see that the road takes you over ...

There are excellent views from both the pass over Jebel Bani and the Beni Selmane pass - from the pass at Jebel Bani/Anagam you can see over to the dunes of Tinfou.

4 more images

As much as the camel thing has become rather commercialised -
when we see them in obviously strategic places such as the palmeraie or near the airport(!!) in Marrakech, on many beaches, maybe we groan and think just to catch tourists -
i think we still do get a kick out of seeing camels, especially out in the desert, and get quite excited and get our cameras ready -

or is that just me!!

I think its great to get cool camel and people and donkey shots - to capture the local life in the area we are visiting and portray it even if just for personal looking back over later!(again and again..!)

so heading off from Mhamid out into the desert where it started looking flat and barren with miles of flat hamada/stoney desert or flat sandy terrain around us and ahead of us,like there was going to be nothing really to see until Chigaga, and then seeing quite a number of camels, that when asking about the vegetation and whats able to eat it or what camels are able to eat and get shown only one particular grass out of a variety because all the rest is bitter and inedible! - shows how harsh the environment is for sure!
Even later when at the Chigaga dunes there were lots of green bushes with large leaves i was told that they are inedible to even the goats who i always thought ate almost anything!

But we started seeing camels, occasionally with foot ties to stop the compulsive ones from taking off, and occasionally a camel keeper. Out further we saw more camels, quite a number of occasions saw donkeys, (out walking but as if they had a mission and direction they were headed for), and then also goats and a few bedouin huts or houses.
and we even picked up one camel man and gave him a lift to the oasis camp. and if the donkeys in a long line were with him they seemed to be happily heading off to the one destination without him.
Really it was quite surprising just how much animal and human life is still living out around the area. and at the bivouac camp even a cat! (tho like in Australia they live anywhere and everywhere!?)

4 more images

From Zagora down to the 'end of the road ' at Mhamid is tar seal road so you can drive down to there and then get a 4 wheel drive excursion from Mhamid out into the desert.

Its approximately 56 kms from Mhamid and possible to have a trip taking you there and around the dunes and then back or the whole overnight or several day thing with a stay in a bivouac there with meals, entertainment - ie sunset over the dunes, sunrise, drumming and singing, camel rides etc.

I got taken for several hours out past the hamada (the stoney desert) which is also very photogenic out to and around the Chigaga dunes, a visit to see the bivouac and then back via the camping ground oasis where Desert Dream actually had a huge group of bikers riding around.

We got to see all sorts - these bike riders, 4 wheel drives riding big dunes, camels, goats and sheep, donkeys and bedoin families living and working out in the desert. We even gave a wizened old desert herder a lift - interesting with his big smiles and listening to the conversing going on between him my driver and guide.

4 more images

The road ends at Mhamid and then you can do an excursion by 4x4 vehicle out to see the sahara desert - which takes about 45-60 minutes of fairly heavy going driving to get out to but along the way you get to see changing landscapes of heavy sand piles to dry and hard terrain or stoney desert - with camels and their keepers, or bedouin families that live out there having family time in the cool under trees away from their desert homes, or even donkey caravans! and goats. all out there in the harshness but surviving.

you can just go out for an afternoon trip to drive around and see the dunes or stay the night in a bivouac camp and be fed moroccan meals such as tagine and be entertained with local drumming and singing - anything really - take a camel and keep going for a weeks trek even - stay out separate away from the tents and have a private night under the stars - whatever your ideas or desires are discuss them and see whats arranged into reality for you.

but you will certainly see some lovely sand and dunes - that roll on for miles.