The Spider's House and Guide Books for Fes
Miscellaneous: There is good coverage of Fes in most guidebooks which cover Morocco. I’ve used the Lonely Planet, Rough Guide and Insight Guides to Morocco and there’s not much to choose between them. The most important thing exploring the medina is a good map but none of these has a particularly great map.
A fictional book about Fes, which I’d strongly recommend to anyone interested in the city, is The Spider’s House by the American writer Paul Bowles. Bowles lived in Morocco for most of his adult life and many of his novels are based in Morocco. The Spider's House is set in Fes in 1954, just before Morocco's independence from France. His story is told through the eyes of two main characters: a local youth, Amar and Stenham, an American expatriate writer. I've read most of Bowles's Moroccan novels and The Spider's House was my favourite. It gives a great picture of life in Fes at one of the most important times in the cities history.
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Bring warm clothes and a hot water bottle!
Miscellaneous: I got to Morocco in the winter and was quite surprised how cold it was. During the day, in the sun, it got warm even in January. The orange trees were blossoming, and you could sit outside with a good book.
However, once the sun disappeared, it got very cold, especially inside the houses which rarely have heating. Every night I would go to bed with a hot water bottle which saved me since stupidly enough I had only brought little summer nightgowns.
So, hot water bottle, winter coat, warm clothes and pyjamas.
Also: bring books if you like to spend time reading. I could not find good bookstores in Fes, at least not ones that had books in English or German, only French. In Casablanca, I once went to a used bookstore ans stocked up.
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