The Fez airport is around 10kms from the new part of the city. Direct flights from London and Paris fly into Saiss Airport. The national airline Royal Air Moroc has flights twice a day from Casablanca.
Trains run from Marrakech, Tangier, Casablanca and Rabat and arrive at the only train station in Fez. There are overnight trains running from Tangier. The trains are operated by ONCF which run in conjunction with buses to get you to outlying areas. There are two classes – first and second and both have compartments. In first class you can book your actual seat.
If driving to Fez just be aware that you cannot drive into the old part of Fez (Fes el-Bali). The roads between cities are very good but probably not advisable to be driven at night. You can hire cars in Fez but it is probably better to hire a petit taxi when outside the Medina.
Buses travel to most major cities in Morocco and CTM is probably the best known operator and a little more than other bus companies. Travel from Casablanca will take around 5 hrs, Marrakesh – 9 hours, Meknes – 1 hour and Tangier – 6 hours. There are two bus depots in Fez.
No vehicles can access the labryinth medina so ask the taxi driver to drop you off at RCIF (pronounced recife) parking -- hopefully someone from your riad can meet you there otherwise you're best bet is to give a few dirhams and a passerby to guide you there. Maps are pretty much useless in any medina, particularly in Fes.
There are CTM buses that depart Chaouen for Fes - they can get booked quickly so be sure to purchase tickets as soon as you know when you're going. There's a CTM office at the bus station otherwise there are other bus companies but they may not have professional and safe drivers.
In Oct 07 a one way ticket cost 70DH plus 5DH/luggage piece.
Car hire rates vary widely in Fes and even the lowest rates can be quite expensive. We were looking to hire a car - the cheapest car possible - for 9 days and to return it to Marrakech. We were quoted over 6000Dh by Hertz and 5800Dh by Avis before getting a much better, but still expensive offer of 4050Dh from Europcar. The only catch was that we had to pay a 12,000Dh deposit upfront. This was far too much for us as neither of us had this much in our current accounts and the guy refused to take our credit card number instead as a deposit.
We tried another lender, Budget, and they had a better price on a Fiat Uno but none was available for two days. So we went back to Europcar and tried plan B: paying a higher initial price and hence less of a deposit. We negotiated 10% off the final initial price which meant we paid 4293Dh for the car with a deposit of 3600Dh.
After all that negotiation we were hoping for a nice, reliable Fiat Uno. Well, it did get us around the country in 9 days but there were a few issues along the way, mostly with starting the car. On some occasions we’d have to try 5 or 6 times to get the thing going. This made us a little wary of stopping the car in the middle of nowhere though after a few days we stopped worrying about it. Of course it started fine in Fes - it was only when we had reached Meknes that the problems arose.
Petit taxis don't go to and from Fes airport so if you're depending on public transport you have two options: one is to take a grand taxi though this is expensive (120 Dh each) while the second is to wait for the #16 bus, which leaves approximately every 30 minutes. The latter option is slower (about 30 minutes to the Gare in Fes) but also much cheaper with tickets costing only 3 Dh per person. The bus leaves from a stop to the right of the main terminal as you leave the arrivals hall. There is also a stop opposite the car-park outside the terminal.
Fes has a small airport - Sais - about 15 km south of the city, near the N8 road. Ryanair has been flying to Fes since late 2006 and, hence, we chose Fes as our starting point for our trip in 2007 . There aren't too many facilities at the airport as it's not used by many international airlines but I’m sure this will change soon. There is a coffee shop, car-hire stands and, perhaps most important of all, as you can’t get Moroccan Currency until you enter the country, an ATM machine.
My flight left early morning, and therefore I did not want to risk being late. I had following scenarious:
1) Ask petit taxi to take you to train station (cost around 10-20 DH)
2) Look for bus #16. I could not find it in short time.
3) Take grand taxi to airport (cost 140 Dh)
Bus would be the cheapest, but hard to figure it out. If you arrive in Fes, bus is the best option if you have lot of time since you are not going to be late for a plane!
Currency can be exchanged in airport, but be aware that they open at 9am only and will give you EUR (not GBP for example).
Don't be afraid to use the red Petit Taxis in Fes. I rarely use taxis when I'm abroad, having heard too many horror stories, but frankly trying to get around town fast to see the sights meant that we opted for taxis most of the time rather than trying to negotiate the packed buses in a strange city. Be aware that the red taxis can't take you to the airport, only one of the white grand taxis can take you that far outside town.
Make sure that at least one of you sits in the front of the car so that if the meter doesn't get switched on, you can bring the driver's attention to it. In fairness, every taxi ride we took in Fes, the meter went on with no questions asked. No journey came to more than 15 dh, most were less than 10 dh though I tended to round up to 10 dh anyway. Moroccan driving is basically insane, so maybe close your eyes until the end of the ride. Seatbelt optional...
Only twice were we 'ripped off' by taxis, in Rabat and Tangier, but that was for a maybe 10 dhirams each time, so you've got to keep it in perspective. Did make me appreciate the honesty of the Fes taxidrivers though.
With Ryanair now flying regularly from Luton to Fes, it's likely that British travellers will arrive direct by airplane. Petit Taxis do not go out to the airport and a Grand Taxi will set you back around 120dh. Indeed, while waiting for the bus to the aiport we were approached a few times by Grand Taxi drivers offering to take us out.
Much cheaper is to take bus number 16. Rumour has it that the bus runs every half an hour but there are no timetables at the bus stop to check this. From the airport, cross over to the car park and walk down to your left. The bus terminates beside the Ibis Hotel next to Fes Train Station. Going out to the airport, the bus stop is on Ibis side of the train station and clearly marked. Give yourself plenty of time to wait for the bus so that you don't end up panicking and catching a taxi. It'll arrive, just on Moroccan time.
The journey takes half an hour and in November 2006 cost 3.40 dhiram. You get on the back of the bus and pay onboard. Be aware that this is no flash airport bus, but a normal, battered old local one and that the route gets packed with locals.
This can also be a good way to get chatting with other cheapie travellers heading for your flight and exchange tales of your adventures in Morocco while waiting for your flight home.
Ask your hotel for pick up from airport, the small red taxis do not go there and the grand ones charge 150 dirham for the 15 min. trip.
Not everyone is either willing or in the position to give up air travel - despite the awareness that this mode of travel contributes significantly to the greenhouse effect. Hence, For people who are concerned in regards to the environmental ramifications of their air travel, a new service has now been created: "atmosfair".
Air-passengers can donate the equivalent amount for the greenhouse gases which were caused by the flight. The funds are invested in e. g. solar, hydropower, biomass, or energy-efficiency projects and thereby contributing to neutralize greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount that would be comparable to the aircraft's emissions. Thus, your donation helps to realize these projects !
Copied from http://wikitravel.org/en/Fes
The main bus terminal ("gare routiere") is just outside the old city on the north side, near the Ain Zleten entrance. Grands taxis (inter-city taxis) can also be obtained here.
Bayti: Care for the Street Kids of Morocco
Bargaining pt 1
Photos by Jamal Morelli, uploaded at Studio Shamharush
Also copied from http://wikitravel.org/en/Fes
Fez is about 4 hours' drive by car from Casablanca. The stretch of toll highway from Rabat to Fez is in superb condition and is relatively little used- the toll in spring 2005 was about 5 dirhams (approx 0.5 euros).
Travelling by grand taxi (inter-city taxi), though more expensive than trains, is viable for tourists- a ride from Fez to Casablanca in spring 2005 cost 1200 dirhams (approx 120 euros), not bad if you are sharing the cost among 3 or 4 passengers. Note that grand taxi fares are regulated and it is worth checking the official rates with the tourist board, as some drivers or hotels will quote inflated prices.
Within Fez, ride in the petits taxis (local taxis) rarely cost more that 15-20 dirhams (spring 2005). However, the medina of Fes el-Bali is only accessible from a few points by car. Place R'cif is a taxi and bus dropoff in the heart of the medina; there are a couple of parking areas such as Ain Zleten on the edges of the medina.