Local Cuisine, Marrakesh

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I visited this place after reading recommendations from other VTers. Good for cheap, good basic food.

My first visit, I had a tasty bowl of Harrira soup with bread for 8dh!
The food was lovely, but the service was VERY slow- I thought it was because I was a female on my own, but then realised everyone else was having to wait.

My second visit, I was with a friend I'd met during our tour. We both had tagines, which again were hot tasty filling and cheap. Mine was a chicken tagine with almonds and sultanas-Mmmmmmm!

My 3rd visit I had another tagine plus an avocado juice, which came sweetened.

I'd read on VT and in LP that the quirk of this place was that you wrote your order on the paper napkins, then this was returned as your bill. I'm afraid that I didn't see this happen.

Popular place with locals, Moroccan holiday makers and tourists- the front terrace was always full, so I sat inside - there was a fan overhead. There is an upper terrace too, but I didn't get to see this part.

Favorite Dish: The Tagines were hot, tasty and cheap- starting at 30dh for vegetable tagine, 50dh for beef or chicken tagines, (2006) Delicious bread to mop up the juices.

Avocado juice was a pleasant alternative to orange juice - something that I'd not tried before, but will look out for it again.

Wandering around Gueliz, I came across this street with quite a few similar cafes in a row, with tables on the pavement. The smell of grilling meats was too tempting!

These cafes are mainly frequented by local workers or residents - They're basic, nothing fancy (or fake "authentic" tourist types!). Clientele - Mainly males of all ages, a few couples (The women wearing headscarves/ jellabahs)

Mixed grills, Grilled chicken, tagines, omelettes.
All very reasonable (Omelette with chips and rice 11dh, salad 10dh, mixed grill with chips and rice 34dh)

I felt very comfortable, and thoroughly enjoyed my meal. I was approached by a few street hawkers selling kilims, shirts, cd's etc, but there was no pressure, as they approached everyone else (ie locals) in the same manner. I think the young waiters were a bit surprised to serve a lone female tourist, but they were friendly and polite.

The Sandwich Toubkal is opposite the Hotel Tachine - which is a popular budget hotel. It has a rooftop mirador open 0900 - 23.00 hours- purchase of an alcoholic beverage is compulsory (whether You drink it or not) before you can be admitted!

I didn't realise til later, that I'd walked down this street many times before on my previous visit, as my hotel (Oudaya) was only a few metres further down the street.

Favorite Dish: I enjoyed fresh local bread, served with 3 sauces in bowls - tomato, chilli, and mayo,
salad ( lettuce, tomato,onion, grated carrot, beetroot) all fresh and nicely presented on a large plate
1/4 grilled chicken, fries (crisp and not too greasy! Mmmm!)
rice and a salad garnish . Plus a can of Fanta and a small bottle of water.

There was too much for me to eat, and I'm afraid that I had to leave some. This all came to 33dh! (About £2!)

I treated myself to afternoon tea here on my birthday.

This 'legendary' hotel was built on the site of an 18th century palace of Sultan Mohammed 111, opening as a hotel in 1923, it gained a reputation as THE place to stay in Marrakesh for the rich and famous of that era. Politicians, film stars and artists have resided here over the years, its most notable guest being Winston Churchill.

The 17 acre gardens surround this de luxe hotel (see my must see tips for more info)
The hotel is open from 1000-1600 for non residents, and is worth a look around. No shorts or other 'unsuitable' attire allowed entrance!

The Bar Soleil is a pleasant place to enjoy a drink or snack. It was just warm enough to sit out and enjoy the late afternoon winter sun, and is quite peaceful.

Favorite Dish: I was intending to have a gin fizz (120 dh) but realised I didn't have enough money on me for a drink and food.

Flag beer was 40dh (I was paying 15dh at my hotel) So I opted for Mint Tea (40dh) and a plate of Moroccan pastries(120dh)

The pastries were nice and the Mint Tea came in a larger pot than I'd been offered previously, but you're paying for the location etc.

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This restaurant was booked by our tour guide on our first night in Marrakesh as part of our 8 day Marrakesh and The Sahara Tour.

We were led up stairs to the roof top restaurant, which has views of the Koutoubia Mosque opposite.

Although the restaurant doesn't have a wine list, our guide had arranged for several bottles of beer and wine to be chilling in the fridge for us.

You could purchase beer and wine from one of the supermarkets and take it with you I guess

A varied menu of grilled meats, fish; tagines etc.

There was a mixed clientele (besides our group of 16 + Mohamed our guide), young couples, family groups - mainly locals or visiting Moroccans.

The restaurant was in a good location, with the Koutoubia Mosque illuminated, and the call to prayer, making it more atmospheric. I hadn't any complaints about the restaurant, but I was eager to escape and get to Djemma el Fnaa.

The restaurant is above the rooms of its Hotel.

Apparently the Hotel Islane is a 3* hotel, with cheap rates. I've read reports that would suggest this is good as a cheap base for exploring Marrakesh, but is a bit dingy, with street noise if Your room is at the front.

Favorite Dish: I enjoyed a mixed fish grill. (800dh)

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For a change from eating in Djemma El Fnaa, I decided to try somewhere in Gueliz, near to my hotel. I had considered trying the legendary Al Fassia, which was very near by, but decided to go there on the last night of my holiday.

This Modern salon / Restaurant caught my eye.

Terraced area outside with 9 tables, plus comfy settees and chairs in outside lounge area. Seating inside too.

Young, Smart, Friendly and Efficient staff. My order was taken quickly, and I didn't have too long a wait for my food, but I didn't feel made to rush at the end of my meal.

Varied menu (Tapas, Tagines, fish, meat etc), plus large wine/cocktail (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) list.

Pleasant relaxed atmosphere,
Mix of clientele dining - local professional looking couples, Families, elderly group of friends.

On a side street off Ave Mohammed V

I returned here on the last night of my holiday, for a night cap

Favorite Dish: I enjoyed my Beef Tagine, it was hot, with plenty of meat, fruit and vegetables. Crusty bread to mop up the sauce! (70dh)

Creme Caramel (40dh) Mmm!

Flag beer (25dh)

Gin Mash cocktail (65dh)

Mint tea is ubiquitous in Morocco!
Whether served in a glass, or from a silver pot, this refreshing drink has to be tried at least once. Mint tea is often offered by shopkeepers during the haggling process.

Chinese green tea, fresh spearmint (nanaa) leaves and sugar are infused in boiling water.
Berber pharmacies sell bags of dried mint and green tea to try at home.

I like my tea black and sweet, but some find it too sweet - just request your tea to be served shwiya sukkar for a less sweetened version.

The tea will often be poured from a height by your waiter to ensure a frothy top! Often the first poured glass is returned to the pot to 'improve' the brew.

Although not traditionally drank with meals, it is considered a digestive.

I had no problems with my stomach during my week, which might have been thanks to the copious amounts of mint tea I drank!

Favorite Dish: I got quite addicted to Mint tea, while in Marrakesh! I'll be growing lots of mint in my garden this year so I can enjoy this refreshing drink. Although I drank it hot in Marrakesh, I think I'll be making iced versions for summer.

Prices varied, Apart from many free glasses I was offered, I think the cheapest I paid was 7dh, the most expensive was 40dh at La Mamounia!

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An evening at Chez Ali is an experience not to be missed! I'd been looking forward to visiting, since reading VTers tips. I chose to celebrate my Birthday here.

I've written a bit about the venue and entertainment in my Nightlife tips.

Arriving at Chez Ali, we were led by our guide, to a room where the inside was decorated in the style of a traditional Caidal tent. The central area was where the food would be served, around the edge of the tent were tables and chairs.

Our first course was Harira - lentil/vegetable soup, followed by lamb M'choui (a whole lamb, spit roasted, usually served at celebrations) Next was chicken and vegetable cous cous, A sweet filo pastry dessert (which might have been Pastilla) then a platter of fresh fruits completed our meal. There was also Mint tea, but the Fantasia had started, so I missed this.

Favorite Dish: I enjoyed all the dishes, This was a good opportunity to try these traditional Moroccan foods.

I also had a 1/2 bottle of wine (Kaiser Blanc 11.5%) and a large bottle of water (I think the wine and water cost 100dh)

I'm not sure how many people they cater for each night, our room had seating for about 150 people, and there were at least 6 of these rooms.

I paid 400dh for this trip through Panorama/Menara Tours. I think most tour companies offer this trip, but you can arrange it independently.

Good honest local food, food better then another 4 I treid (including Ketchmara - where the wairess gets 10 points for the biggest *** on a slim girl I have ever seen but the food sucked),

right opposite the Chesterfield Hotel (home of the BAR ANGLAIS) on Bul. Mohammed the 6th.

Favorite Dish: CouscousRoyal ot the Tagine au Poulet avec Limon.