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 Gnaoua musicians 'from a
distance'!! by suvanki
It's quite a busy place, so you might need to be very patient, to get an uninterrupted view, particularly at the popular sights
Although the locals are used to camera wielding tourists, they're understandably often not happy to be snapped, going about their daily lives, particularly the women. Although as a lone female traveler. I've often been asked to take pics by the local women!
I did find a few occasions, when I was taking a street scene in the medina or mellah, where I thought I'd taken care not to get anyone in the shot, then realised that I'd inadvertantly upset a 'hidden' bystander' Also taking shots where a stall keeper was 'hidden' in the darkness or shadow, behind the stalls display.
An apology, and gesturing at the view I was taking, was usually accepted. I didn't have digital, only old fashioned film, so couldn't show them the pic as proof.
Djemma el Fnaa, is a place to be aware of who/what you're photographing- musicians, such as those in the photo, the watersellers, snake charmers etc are very quick to demand money, if they see (or think they see) you taking a photo. (The brighter their costume, the more likely they are to demand money!!! )
Tip - carry loose change in a separate pocket, if you feel the need to tip these.(They'll ask for some exorbitant amount such as 200dh- I usually had 5 - 10 dh ready, if they protested, I explained it was all I had (with an apologetic shrug and smile!) which they were usually happy to accept.
At night, the musicians and storytellers, who are surrounded by their audience, standing or sitting in a circle etc. are also on the look out for anyone taking photo's, and usually expect a donation.
These aren't here as a tourist attraction - they are continuing an age old tradition of story telling, which usually, only the locals (who outnumber the gathered tourists) will understand.
I personally don't mind tipping these musicians etc, especially if they're as talented as most in Djemma El Fnaa- These performances have been some of the hi lights of my holiday! I spent most nights being invited to sit with one group, while they played.
I've also recorded some of them on MP3, so I've got some long lasting memories of their music and the atmosphere of Djemma el Fnaa. Leave a Comment
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Everyone is attracted to the snake charmers on Djemaa el-Fna - it is amazing to see with your own eyes what you have seen on TV since you were a kid - the cobra mesmerised by the music, rising up and looking like it may strike at any minute - exciting stuff hey!
But be warned, you will have to pay to take a photo (best to agree on the price beforehand - no more than 20 dirham). I tried to sneak one from a distance when we first arrived at Djemaa el-Fna - it turned out to be a terrible photo as the sun was so bright at the time. A man ran over to me and demanded money as I had taken a photo. I refused to pay and deleted the photo in front of him. He was very angry and basically told us to get lost!
A couple of days later I decided that I would have to pay, as I really did want to take a photo of the snakes. We negotiated a price first and I was allowed to take my time and get a decent photo - though kneeling down in front of a cobra isn't really my idea of fun!
If you are really scared of snakes be wary - after I took the photo, a man appeared with a small snake which he put around my neck - he insisted that Alison take a photo of me - then he put it around her neck for another photo. He wouldn't take no for an answer. He then of course wanted more money - we didn't pay it. Leave a Comment
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Just a warning about some of the leather goods you may buy in Marrakech - some of them really smell!!
I think the problem is that some of the leather is not treated correctly at the tanneries and it retains a really foul odour which you don't notice at first.....it is only a day or two later when you realise that the foul aroma you have been smelling all day is actually coming from your new leather slippers or bag : (
Alison bought a 'bargain' pair of slippers, but a couple of days later we realised that they smelt so bad (and the smell gave us flash-backs to our scary tannery visit) that she had to throw them out. The other slippers we had bought weren't as bad, but still have an unpleasant smell - Alex has been testing some different leather treatments on them to see if he can improve the aroma. Leave a Comment
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Most transportation through and around the souks is by donkey or mule drawn carriage - moving articles that were goods bought or to be sold around the markets,
so take notice of whats coming up behind you - including bikes and mopeds, donkeys and larger mules laden with trailor loads, and whats coming up before you.
and especially take notice if you hear calling out as it might be directed at you to encourage you to move out of the way!
At times carrying heavy loads i am sure the donkeys would appreciate not having to slow or stop completely. Leave a Comment
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When you are walking in the narrow lanes of the souqs you need to be constantly alert to the sounds and calls of people trying to get past you on motorbikes or bicycles - they weave down the tiny streets like crazy people. You will also need to look out for the men with their donkeys and carts trying to squeeze down the laneways.
Also, when you are walking around in Djemma El Fna you must be aware that there is a road that cuts across part of the square - it is not obvious at first - and the locals don't seem to slow down when driving through. Again, anywhere on the square you should be alert to errant motorbikes and bicycles taking a shortcut through the sea of people. Leave a Comment
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 by belgianchocolate
It is not a habbit of mine to put a restaurant
or café in the warnings-area...but this time.
'Café de France' has a very nice terrace with
a fantastic vieuw on the lively Jemaa-el-fna square.
If you sit here you even become parth of the square.
The terrace is a leftover from the French
protectorate period.
The turn of the coin is that you wont get much rest
to enjoy the spectacle...beggers , shoe cleaners ,
salesman - I think one every minute.
And then the food. We were not really hungry
but wanted a fast snack before our afternoon
swim in the hotel. Placing an order took some
time...but then we waited , waited , waited...
We didn't even get drinks. When we heard a
lady complaning next to us , that she had been
waiting for an hour....she was upset. And then
we saw what she orderned ; a baked egg.
Ok , we finally got our vegetarian tagine ,
and a poor salad. It was of -ok-quality. Not bad
but nothing to get enthousiastic about either.
Paying the bill took time as well. In the end
we spend 2 houres at this place. Don't forget
the taxes added later on either.
Yes , this place is way too touristy.
The thing about tourists is that they don't
return. (we for sure not)...you don't have to
treat them too well. The terrace is so tempting
they come anyway...like bees to honey.
Café and hotel de FRANCE
Place Jemaa-el-fna. Leave a Comment
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 Moroccan Dirhams by SWFC_Fan
Instead, you will have to obtain your Dirhams on arrival in Marrakech, and make sure you've spent them all (or changed them back into your home currency) before leaving the country.
Therefore, if the taxi driver hasn't taken all your remaining Dirhams on the journey back to the airport, you'll be looking to spend them at the airport. If you're like me, you'll use your excess currency in the airport's Duty Free shops to pick up last minute gifts for family and friends. However, this is not possible at Marrakech airport.
You are able to change your Dirhams at the airport, prior to passing through passport control. But once you've passed through passport control, your Dirhams are practically useless. However, unless you have been told about this, you will be completely oblivious to the fact that the pocketful of Dirhams you are carrying are about to become worthless until you arrive at the checkout to pay for your basketful of Toblerones!
The only place in the departure lounge where you can use your Dirhams is a small cafe which sells a small selection of sandwiches, pastries, bottled water and canned soft drinks.
The currency of choice in the departure lounge is the Euro. My advice would therefore be to change your spare Dirhams into Euros before passing through passport control.
If you've just got a bit of spare change to get rid of, there are charity boxes in the departure lounge where you can deposit your last few coins. Leave a Comment
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I should have written this tip a year ago or more when the landline numbers changed but oh well it still might be helpful for those of us with older guide books and information still with the old phone numbers included
- so if youre finding that youre having trouble getting through check your number - 00212 of course for Morocco - then the first digit of the number for inside Morocco has changed to a 2 instead of a 4.
so now instead of 00212444... or when dialling inside Morocco 0444..... its now 00212244.... or from inside Morocco 0244.... Leave a Comment
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 Kiosk in the Mellah, Marrakesh by suvanki
After a pleasant evening, I left the square to get a taxi back to my hotel.
Setting off in the direction I thought I'd come from, it wasn't long before I realised I wasn't where I thought I was. I thought if I continued I'd come to a main road or landmark.
It was around midnight, and I was wandering further into the Mellah area (which I realised later when I checked my guide book)
The narrow alleyways were lined with 'hole in the wall' grill houses, workshops etc. Donkey carts passing by forced me to walk close to the walls. In front of me a group of youths suddenly started a fight, as soon as it started, it ended, with 2 boys ending up covered in blood!
I was starting to feel a bit uneasy now, if I turned back, I wasn't entirely sure of my route..luckily a taxi appeared at the road in front, and I got in.
Next to the driver was a woman, who I thought was his wife, but after a drive around the narrow alleyways, we reached a small square where she got out.
My taxi driver had to stop twice to ask directions to my hotel. As you can imagine, I was quite relieved to arrive back at my hotel. The taxi driver got a good tip!
Despite this experience, it didn't deter me from wandering about, or spoil my holiday. Just another of my travel adventures! Leave a Comment
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 Djemma el Fnaa by suvanki
On my travels, I've had various henna 'tattoos', and I might have had one done in Marrakesh, but I'd read other VTers pages, who'd recorded problems with prices etc.
I was wandering through the square, minding my own business, when I was accosted by one of these henna artists, who forcibly grabbed me by the arm, and thrust a catalogue of designs in my face.
I tried to tell her I wasn't interested, but she persisted in gripping me harder, then attempting to draw a squiggle on my hand. I managed to brush her aside, and luckily I had a tissue in my pocket to remove the henna paste.
However, I was left with an orange mark on my hand for a couple of days!
My advise is to walk away, with a firm No! Non! or La! -
There will be another potential 'mug' along soon Leave a Comment
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