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Off the Beaten Path in Rabat
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Rabat Off the Beaten Path

SUNSET IN RABAT - Rabat
SUNSET IN RABAT
by matcrazy1
Tips and photos of unusual, out-of-the-way Rabat attractions, posted by real travelers and locals.
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DO NOT VISIT !
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  • JLBG
  • Updated By JLBG on November 13, 2004
  • Rabat Page by JLBG
  • Rabat Off the Beaten Path
    by JLBG
    Attention, this is not written for tourists. This is not to advise you to visit. This is to remind that though Morocco seems to be a reasonably wealthy country, misery is sometimes not far from what tourists visit. If you choose to have look at that misery, be very, very discreet. Of course NO PHOTO !
    When in the souk you follow Souika street and instead of turning left into the Consuls street you go straight ahead, almost immediately you get a completely different view of the medina. There, no more shops. Second hand (or third if not more) things of every kind, in good condition or more often half broken are spread out, directly on the ground, for sale. After 30 meters, you arrive on a little place, with the same sight all around. If you walk towards the other side of the place, you will see a passage that leads to a yard where the sight is even more terrible. Rubbish and rubbles, stained scrapes of iron are piled to make shelters (are they really shelters ?) where people, including children live and try to sell scrapes of metals, bare feet in mud or in dust, according to the weather.
    I thought you should know, but please, do not visit.

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    Impressive walls and history
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  • matcrazy1
  • By matcrazy1 on July 29, 2005
  • Rabat Page by matcrazy1
  • WALLS OF RABAT (ON THE LEFT) AND CHELLAH (RIGHT) - Rabat
    WALLS OF RABAT (ON THE LEFT)
    AND CHELLAH (RIGHT)
    by matcrazy1
    Chellah - the oldest settlement in the area - is surrounded by own impressive walls and towers (on the right). Nowadays only main highway and a few hundred meters of a meadow seperate Chellah from the city walls of the white city of Rabat (on the left). When I saw Chellah from a distance, the place and its walls looked a bit strange and somewhat secret for me, like a very old castle put nowhere. Well, to understand what I was going to see, I had been forced to read about the history of Chellah.


    HISTORY OF CHELLAH

    1. Phoenicians and Carthaginians
    Phoenicians established trading post at Chellah - no one knows when... They came from the land known then as Caanan in the Middle East (Israel, Jordan, Syria, Lebanon). The Phoenicians were essentially a maritime people which established fish-salting factories. They were not interested in conquering, farming land or colonizing. Their succesors, more civilized Carthaginians (from Carthage, Tunisia), turned the Phoenician settlement into prosperous town and started to grow wheat.

    2. Romans
    The Third Punic War resulted in the end of Carthaginian power, Carthage was conquered by Romans in 146 BC. Since that time Romans moved westwards into the Berber kingdoms of Mauritania and Numidia(Algeria, Morocco now) which became part of the Roman Empire. Chellah grew up and was named as Sala Colonna by Romans. The city was inhabited by the Romnanised, part-Christian, Berber Mauritanians.

    3. The Merinides
    The Berber Merinides took control over the whole North Africa in 1296. The origin of the desert people, Berbers is still not known... Anyway, Merinides established burial grounds by the ruins of Roman Sala Colonna and surrounded it by walls in 13th and 14th century.

    CONCLUSION: Chellah is a historical place on fascinating both co-existense and fights of different cultures and reflects mixed cultural heritage of Morocco.

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    What a stork's nest!
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  • matcrazy1
  • Updated By matcrazy1 on July 29, 2005
  • Rabat Page by matcrazy1
  • STORK'S NEST ON THE TOP OF THE FUNERAL MOSQUE - Rabat
    STORK'S NEST ON THE TOP
    OF THE FUNERAL MOSQUE
    by matcrazy1
    The most characteristic and famous picture of Chellah is this stork's nest put up on the top of the minaret of the funeral mosque of the Merinides. I was lucky to observe two adult white storks although with no children.

    Generally I must underline that after busy and crowded Rabat, Chellah was a place of peace and quiet with almost no visitors but many singing loudly birds and colorful butterflies.

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    Ruins of Roman Sala Colonna
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  • matcrazy1
  • By matcrazy1 on July 29, 2005
  • Rabat Page by matcrazy1
  • ROMAN RUINS OF SALA COLONNA, CHELLAH, RABAT - Rabat
    ROMAN RUINS OF SALA COLONNA,
    CHELLAH, RABAT
    by matcrazy1
    When I passed through the entrance gate to Chellah, the first I saw large a bit sloping area covered by ruins of ancient Roman city Sala Colonna. I was a bit surpriced that I could easily walk on ancient stones...

    Anyway, the ruins were not the best preserved, just a set of stones put in some secret order, and looked far worse than ancient ruins of, say, Ephesos (Turkey) and Pompei (Italy). Additionally there were no explanations put by the ruins. OK, it maybe fascinating place for a fan of ancient archeology whom I am not.

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    Off the beaten path medina
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  • matcrazy1
  • Updated By matcrazy1 on July 28, 2005
  • Rabat Page by matcrazy1
  • OFF THE BEATEN PATH MEDINA - Rabat
    OFF THE BEATEN PATH
    MEDINA
    by matcrazy1
    Surely, as always in North African cities, I had to discover off the beaten path medina and get lost there. Hmm... if you do it for the first or the second time it's fascinating, then it becomes more and more boring. So, the medina is a must especially for the first time visitors to Morocco and for travelers who want to do some shopping (local food and craft).

    In Rabat, the medina is not as much fascinating as in, say, Fez. It's more difficult to observe authentic old-style local life, there are no donkeys used for transportation, there are few local craftsmen working on a street etc. But there are pretty narrow streets with little passages, white houses and doors painted in light blue colour.

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    Visit Sale across the river
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  • matcrazy1
  • By matcrazy1 on July 28, 2005
  • Rabat Page by matcrazy1
  • THE MEDINA OF SALE - Rabat
    THE MEDINA OF SALE
    by matcrazy1
    If you want to discover the white lazy city with some muslim conservative touch far from crowds of Rabat, take a bus/taxi or drive across the Atlantic mouth of quite large river (Ouled Bou Regreg) to visit Sale.

    I visited city of Sale, twin city to Rabat just before arrival to Rabat. And I saw Sale again from the viewing platform in the Kasbah of the Oudaya; from the bottom: the river, Muslim cemetery (unseen on my picture), city walls, white housed of the medina with a skyline dominating by a minaret of the Grand Mosque.

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    Chellah necropolis - a must see!
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  • matcrazy1
  • Updated By matcrazy1 on July 29, 2005
  • Rabat Page by matcrazy1
  • CHELLAH - THE ENTRANCE GATE - Rabat
    CHELLAH - THE ENTRANCE GATE
    by matcrazy1
    Before leaving Rabat I drove a car southwards to visit Chellah, an ancient burial ground built upon the remains of the ancient Roman town of Sala. Located off the beaten path, out of the city walls, Chellah was the best place I visited in Rabat. The necropolis is a complex and interesting series of tombs and ruins from both Roman and Islamic dynasties located on square area approx. 300 - 400 m long surrounded by impressive walls.

    I easily parked a car on a large, surprisingly empty, unpaved parking lot in front of the impressive entrance gate called Bab Zaer. Massive brick edifice is designed in U shape and richly ornamented. I was asked to pay an entrance fee at the gate. There were no guided tours around the Chellah when I visited it. I simply could stroll around by myself.

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    Architecture details
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  • matcrazy1
  • By matcrazy1 on July 28, 2005
  • Rabat Page by matcrazy1
  • THE TUARET ABOVE THE ATLANTIC OCEAN - Rabat
    THE TUARET ABOVE THE
    ATLANTIC OCEAN
    by matcrazy1
    There are many architecture details hidden off the beaten path in Rabat. They reflect complicated history and the past of the city. Rabat belonged to local Berber tribes, Phoenicians, Romans, muslim dynasties (Almohads), various local rulers, pirates from Mauretania, Spaniards, Portugueses, Morocco and France (1912 - 1956).

    Just one example on my picture - the tuaret fixed to a roof corner of a house on he Atlantic cliff looks strange with its Portuguese shape and islamic (?) roof.

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    Tombs of sultans
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  • matcrazy1
  • By matcrazy1 on July 29, 2005
  • Rabat Page by matcrazy1
  • TOMBS OF SULTANS - Rabat
    TOMBS OF SULTANS
    by matcrazy1
    There are numerous, old, less or more neglected graves among olive trees close to the southern corner of the Chellah's walls.

    The rich and famous of the past, like sultan families were burried in seperate tombs placed traditionally below the ground level. The white, stone graves, which luckily survived till now, are richly decorated in Arabic calighaphy and Islamic patterns.

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    Gardens of Chellah
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  • matcrazy1
  • By matcrazy1 on July 29, 2005
  • Rabat Page by matcrazy1
  • URSZULA (matcrazy0) AT GARDENS OF CHELLAH - Rabat
    URSZULA (matcrazy0) AT GARDENS
    OF CHELLAH
    by matcrazy1
    When I passed by ancient Roman ruins of Sala Colonna, in Chellah, I entered the green space of the walled settlement. The relatively small gardens contain trees, a lot of bushes and few flowers and are maintained in, say, a little bit wild, English style. As it was getting hot I enjoyed a walk in a shadow although there were no benches to sit down. The best were numerous colorful butterflies which occupied some bushes in bloom.

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