Maputo Travel Guide

Scala is an art house cinema/arts centre that is named after the Teatro alla Scala (Scala Theatre) built in Milan under the auspices of the Empress Maria Theresa of Austria in 1776. The actuality does not live up to the grandeur of its namesake, but it is an art cinema in the true sense of the name. The day I visited my guide told me it was closed because it ran out of money (again), but I can find film times there for tomorrow on the internet, so it is open again! The building houses a café, restaurant, snack bar, a bakery and take-away service.

There is also a Production Company housed here called PROMARTE (Tel: +258 1 425365, Fax: +258 1 422434, Móvil: + 258 82 30 22 350, promarte@tropical.co.za). They recently produced a movie called “O Jardim do Outro Homem” which tells the all too real tale of a woman contracting AIDS from a man who refuses to wear a condom.

So, if it is open, stop by and find out what movie is playing and what other activities are available.

C.F.M. Railway Station

The grand Train Station is dominated by a large dome designed by Gustave Eiffel (Eiffel Tower, Statue of Liberty). The large central dome was designed to allow light to enter and air to circulate within the station. The original wrought ironwork and marble pillars are intact. Eiffel lived in Portugal in the 1870’s and designed several buildings for the Portuguese Colony of Mozambique. Just to add to the sense of history and grandeur, 2 old steam trains from the 1800's still sit on the tracks. There are daily trains between Johannesburg and Maputo, taking about 15 hours. There is a nicely appointed bar inside if you are waiting for the train or just want to enjoy the railway experience.

You may hear about the missing ‘Kruger Millions’ supposedly gold brought into this train station when Paul Kruger fled the British army during the Boer War. Sounds great and Paul Kruger did come here before leaving for Europe. Unfortunately it was 5 years before the station was built.

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What looks like the most colourful apartment building in Maputo is actually the former headquarters of La Aerolínea Portuguesa (TAP) – the national airline of Portugal. After the pro-Portuguese/Colonial government Salazar regime fell in 1974 a new government and Republic was formed under Samora Machel (June 1975). The pullout of the Portuguese symbols of Colonialism soon followed. The Portuguese state airline building was abandoned, but its bright multi-coloured tiles now house a vibrant apartment block. The name of the airline still adorns the side of the building.

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MERCADO MUNICIPAL

This massive market has it all. Outside the entrance you can find men selling watches and sunglasses. Unfortunately you can also find your pocket picked by the many thieves that stare at you as you walk by. Inside is an explosion of colourful fruits and vegetables (mostly from South Africa). As you walk towards the interior you find the fish and meat stalls. Be careful, many of the workers do not like to have their picture taken. Go just a bit farther and you come upon the nut stand full of fresh roasted cashews and other tropical nuts. After that you will find the necessities of life like pots, soap and beauty products. Tucked just at the rear are the souvenir stands. Everything is available and every price is negotiable. Walking around is an experience itself even if you are not there to buy anything.

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The Iron House (Casa do Ferro) was designed by Gustave Eiffel in the late 1800’s as a house for the Portuguese Governor of Mozambique. The building itself answers the question – did Eiffel ever go to Africa? He designed the Eiffel Tower, the Statue of Liberty and Maputo’s grand Train Station. This is not his finest design in terms of form or function. Totally unsuitable for the heat, this elaborate hot box was never used for it’s original purpose. Today it is used by the Mozambican Central Office of Historic Monuments with the help of modern air conditioning. It is located to the left of the entrance of the Botanical Gardens.