Usakos Things to Do

Many of Namibia's small towns - which is the vast majority, as there aren't many 'big' ones - have a distinctive timewarp feel about them.

This is particularly true of Usakos. Part of the reason why the main street feels so forgotten is that it has been bypassed by the main road: at the sign shown in the photo, you bear right for Swakopmund. This means that the main road carries no through traffic and is only frequented by the local population (quoted as being 9147 according to the GeoNames geographical database at the time of writing in November 2011).

Most people who have travelled through Usakos - since virtually nobody travels 'to' it - will have one vivid recollection of the town: the distinctive water tower with the witch's hat.

In a climate as arid as Namibia's, where evaporation can easily exceed the rainfall by a factor of ten, conserving what little water is available is a major priority. Where possible, water storage facilities need to be sealed to prevent evaporative loss - there is no apparent reason why that roof needs to be pointed and witchy, but it's a splendidly Germanic touch!

This water tower is part of the old railway station complex and was built to supply the steam locomotives that ran on the Usakos-Karabib-Tsumeb-Grootfontein line until 1960, when the service converted to diesel (see my other tip).

This wonderful old steam locomotive is parked in a siding on the left hand side of the road as your enter Usakos from the Windhoek/Karibib side and is one of only a couple of notable landmarks in the town.

For the train spotters among us - bless your little hooded anoraks! - I include the following extract from the Steam Locomotives of South Africa website (see link below):

""2’0” gauge Class Hd/NG5 2-8-2 #40 Henschel works number 10720 built in 1912 plinthed in front of the Usakos station building. The station building has since been demolished by run away trucks

"In 1960, after the Usakos-Karabib-Tsumeb-Grootfontein line's narrow gauge was broadend from 2 feet to 3 feet 6 inches, all of the railway system in South West Africa was dieselised. Up to that time steam traction was used, and before 1960 many a steam locomotive, including the old Henschel #40 shown here, would have quenched its thirst with an ample load of water from these historic water tank towers at the Usakos railway yards."

Improbably, newspaper reports that I have found indicate that this loco has been hit by trucks on no fewer than three separate occasions between 2006 and 2009, which hardly does much for your faith in the quality of Namibian truck drivers! As a result, the municipality has requested that the loco be relocated (sorry - couldn't resist!) to a safer position outside the municipal buildings out of the way of runaway trucks.

The rock formations at Spitzkoppe are so stunning that they're enough to turn the most recalcitrant 'couch potato' into a rock hopper!

There are walks and climbs for all ages and levels of fitness, from gentle strolls on established paths all the way through to proper rock climbing on the peaks. Just be sure to bring appropriate footwear with a non-slip sole, as the rounded, weathered rocks can be surprisingly slippery, even when dry, and can also get painfully hot underfoot in the midday sun.

I know it's a terrible cliche, but it really is something to see the desert bloom. Those who have not previously spent time in the arid zone may be astonished by how quickly plants come into flower after the merest sprinkle of rain - in this case, the flowers literally appeared overnight.

Just be careful of the 'devil's thorn' creeper - notable for its pretty little yellow flowers - which proliferates on road verges and other disturbed ground - it's well named, and if you wander around in bare feet or open toed shoes, you'll remember the encounter for quite some time!