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Off the Beaten Path in Senegal

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Popular Off the Beaten Path | Other Off the Beaten Path Tips | All Tips (51)
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Farewell to Bantancountou
The meeting of the village chiefs took two hours. We are now packing or stuff and people wave goodbye as we drive away.
Wilfried shares with us that the chief told him that he had have many visitors in his village already, but that “les Belges” for sure will leave an empty space when they are gone

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The reality shock.
Then we go for a walk into the “hood: fenced places that count each 4 to 5 huts.

It is amazing to me how little these people possess: a hut; a bed with a very thin mattress; some nice cloths; foot slippers and a little bit of furniture and things. Women and kids are walking around.
Each time, in every hut, you come across an elderly person, sitting on the edge of a bed.
Here kids grow up slowly and elderly age slowly, harmonious.
It is almost a romantically thought and I am sitting still on the bed across as I feel suddenly tears swelling up.
Maybe I have taken in and swallowed too many the past days and now I am facing the unexpected naked moment of the “reality chock”.

The worn out faced of the grandfather, the white of the eyes that turned yellowish due to too much fluor, next to him his skinny granddaughter an her baby with red hair.

Yesterday I shared my surprise with Wilfried : “there are quite some kids with almost blond hair!” But he put right with my nose upon the hard facts: that blond hair is a sign of bad health.
I remembered that during our tour through the neighbourhood this morning, I have seen many of these “blonds” kids, since that moment I had a total different perception of this colour.

“So health is declining? That’s just terrible. "

I get flashed get flashed back to yesterday’s interview with the chief and I remember the pain in his eyes when he pronounced his words “La faim c’est la limite”.
His prediction: “In January; February and March of 2003, his people will be confronted with hunger and famine”.

I quickly sweep off my tears, hoping Isabelle and Dirk didn’t notice them.

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The everlasting agenda continues
Conference underneath the baobab tree - Senegal
Conference underneath the
baobab tree
by irisbe
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We listen how the local NGO represent explains in Woloff (the local language) why the Belgians came to visit. Each time this is followed by a translation in French. We learn that they want help to start growing new crops instead of peanuts. The Imam talks about “the road, already 100 years they have been asking for a descent street.
There are some comments uttered about the functioning of the local NGO.
It is like a city council, only without papers, and with an everlasting agenda.

It strikes me how peaceful and easy this conference happens. Everyone who feels to say something is allowed to speak and to finish his saying. Each time followed by a translation.
No heated discussions or arguments here, although hard truth is not avoided and discussed and discussed

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A conference without papers ...
Wise chiefs under the baobab tree - Senegal
Wise chiefs under the baobab
tree
by irisbe
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... but with an everlasting agenda.

Around 4 pm we are all seated underneath the central tree.
The chiefs are arriving one by one, taking in their place; one of them is the Imam.
Even the local governmental representative is present.
Wilfried arrives around half past four and is accompanied by the representative of the local NGO.
Then the farewell ceremony starts, it is one we will remember for a long time!

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On responsibility and famine
Pile of rott'n peanuts, globalisation in a nutshel - Senegal
Pile of rott'n peanuts,
globalisation in a nutshel
by irisbe
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Responsibility.
We can read the pain in his eyes that at the same time, this pain keeps him going on, motivates him.

He cannot bear the thought that his people will endure famine (Spring 2003).
Le faim c'est la limite!
Hunger is the very limit!



There is too much theory on the radio. First you have to succeed in getting to know the concrete situation of the farmers thouroughly. Only then you can work, together with them on a solution.
We have so much need on new agricultural technology, we want to grow new crops, we want to work for our own consumption and not focus on only export.

The peanuts are as a symbol.

For years it has been the most popular export-product.
Due to changes and regulation at level of the world market economy, it has let now to mountains of overstock because there is no candidate buyer. Despite the good harvest and the hard work, they lay piles lay rotting on the fields:
the globalisation problem in a nutshell.

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Party? No party.
Seckou Kandé, Mayor of Bantancountou - Senegal
Seckou Kandé, Mayor of
Bantancountou
by irisbe
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During noon I pass by the hut of the Chief. The musicians have arrived. They will bring some ambiance during the “fare well party” of “les Belges”. There will be some dancing. We will be surprised what they have waiting for us.

We take a little rest in our room. The frog is there to witness me writing a goodbye speech, just in case it should be expected from me. I write it in my “home brewed” French.

When later on we are having our rice with onion and meat for lunch, Séckou enters.
He looks like a bit embarrassed.
The family is still mourning for the deceased of two days ago and don’t feel for any party of festivity at all.

The program has changed. No party but instead a full meeting of the village chiefs will wave us out.

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A conference for all
A conference for everyone - Senegal
A conference for everyone
by irisbe
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In the main time the “public” grows: around the circle of men, a second circle is growing of women and children who very attentive are listening to the discourse.
What really is frapping is how the interpreter seems to say 5 times as much as the original sentences. A thought is narrated in many diverse manners. “This way thoughts will stick into your memory” Wilfried whispers in my ear.

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Gifts, gifts...
African cloths as gift - Senegal
African cloths as gift
by irisbe
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Next follow the gifts to me and Isabelle, we both get a real African dress. Wilfried gets a sheep and Dirk a violin.
And finally Isabelle, Wilfried and I are granted honoured citizenship of Bantancountou.
I have never been so happy with any other diploma before then the one that is offered me now.

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Tuesday 19th November 2002
Rice fields and rice bouquet (Ingrid and local) - Senegal
Rice fields and rice bouquet
(Ingrid and local)
by irisbe
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The present morning ritual looks very similar to the one we had yesterday. The only difference is that Isabelle is getting more used and feeling more comfortable with that hole in the bathroom.

There are neither more melons nor mandarins at breakfast.



This morning the brother of the Chief will take us along. First we visit the paddy fields or rice fields. The women of the village are harvesting the stems one by one until they hold what looks like a bride’s bouquet in their hands.

We notice the little local shop and discover the Nescafe and milk powder that had flavoured our breakfast. We can also see the bakery and the hut where all those nice clots are been manufactured

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And if you are the lucky man...
And if you are the lucky man of the year, a cameleon will cross your road!!!

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More Senegal Tips
Overview
 
General Tips
Tips: 34 - Photos: 31
Restaurants
Tips: 19 - Photos: 13
Hotels and Accommodations
Tips: 43 - Photos: 36
Things To Do
Tips: 98 - Photos: 94
Nightlife
Tips: 11 - Photos: 6
Off the Beaten Path
Tips: 51 - Photos: 50
Tourist Traps
Tips: 16 - Photos: 12
Warnings or Dangers
Tips: 31 - Photos: 22
Transportation
Tips: 34 - Photos: 31
Local Customs
Tips: 23 - Photos: 22
Packing Lists
Tips: 6 - Photos: 3
Shopping
Tips: 14 - Photos: 14
Sports Travel
Tips: 2 - Photos: 2

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