Soweto, Johannesburg

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Regina Mundi is famous for the painting "The Madonna and Child of Soweto” mostly referred to as "The Black Madonna" by Larry Scully in 1973.

The first Black Madonna is attributed to St Luke in AD50. There are black Marian figures/Virgins in most cultures where black people are dominant and Catholicism is prevalent.

Larry Scully, the artist, immigrated from England to South African when he was 15. He studied at the University of the Witswatersrand (Wits) in Johannesburg, from 1947 through 1950. He was a friend of Cecil Skotnes who, incidentally, was in the same class as my father. In 1963, Scully became the first person in South Africa to be awarded a Master of Fine Arts degree (cum laude). Scully’s subject was San influences on Walter Battiss’s work.

Scully had many exhibitions over the years, and he won the prestigious Oppenheimer Painting Prize in 1965.

Scully painted a famous "Cityscape" (Dudley Heights building in Johannesburg) and the "Music Murals" for the University of Stellenbosch commissioned him to paint his “Music Murals” in 1978.

He became Professor of Fine Arts and Art History at the University of Stellenbosch.

In the 1970s, Scully headed a committee organizing a Johannesburg Biennale. He planned to have all South Africans represented as artists and audience members. A week or so before the biennale was due to open, the South African government ordered Scully to limit the biennale to whites only. Scully refused to agree to this and shut down the biennale immediately. This was an unusual and highly principled action at a time when most whites supported Apartheid and did little to challenge racial discrimination

In 1973 The Star newspaper, a liberal, anti-apartheid newspaper in Johannesburg commissioned Scully to paint a picture to raise money for an education fund for black South Africans. Scully painted The Madonna and Child of Soweto, some 8 foot by 5 foot in size. Harry Oppenheimer of Anglo American bought the painting that was then donated to the Regina Mundi Church in Soweto. Regina Mundi was the site of much anti-apartheid activity both in the 1970s and through to the ending of apartheid in the 1990s. Numerous funerals of activists were held in the church and many organizations used the church for meetings. During the student uprising in 1976, students fled to Regina Mundi after police shot at them. In 1997, Nelson Mandela declared 30 November Regina Mundi Day in recognition of the importance of the church to the anti-apartheid struggle. As Michael Morris has noted the painting “had a prophetic quality: the focal point is the child’s right hand, forming a victory sign.”[Morris Interview with Scully in Matieland February 2002}.

In 2004, journalist Mpho Lukoto reflected on 10 years of democracy in South Africa by saying of the painting:

“Perhaps one of the most poignant reminders of the past is the Black Madonna and Child of Soweto, which was painted by Laurence Scully. Beneath the image of the Black Madonna, Scully painted an eye, with the different images in it giving meaning to the picture. The pupil of the eye represents the township. The two black forks that run across the eye toward the pupil represent the pain inflicted on black people. And in the centre of the eye, representing the church, is a cross with a light that illuminates the pupil. It struck me that in the midst of all the painful memories, the painting is a symbol of the hope that, like the church itself, was in the heart of the people. I like to believe that it was that hope that makes it possible for us to celebrate 10 years of democracy.” The Star, March 23, 2004

The Black Madonna on the wall inside the Regina Mundi churchToday thousands of visitors still see The Madonna and Child of Soweto on tours of the City and the image of the black Madonna is printed on t-shirts that are sold across South Africa.

While not an overt political activist, Larry Scully’s desire to recognize the humanity in all people on all sides of the difficult divide that was Apartheid South Africa is probably his lasting legacy, symbolized indeed by his beloved Madonna and Child of Soweto.

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Regina Mundi (Queen of the World) Catholic Church, built in 1964, forms part of the rich history of Soweto, and is a must-see on every tour to Soweto, if only to admire the scars from the days of apartheid police action. It is the largest Roman Catholic church in Soweto, it seats two thousand and has standing room for a further five thousand and often serves as a concert hall for classical and sacred music concerts.

Regina Mundi first wrote its name in South Africa’s history books during apartheid, when it opened its doors to anti-apartheid groups and provided shelter to activists. People forbidden to meet with others under banning orders were allowed to attend church, so church was where they conducted their political activities. Church services were often really political rallies. Funerals were often political affairs, starting at Regina Mundi and ending at Avalon Cemetery.

During the June 16, 1976 student uprisings, protesting students fled to Regina Mundi from Orlando Stadium to escape the police’s bullets and teargas canisters. Throughout the history of the Christian world church buildings have served as a sanctuary for anyone seeking it. The sanctity of the building has often, perhaps usually, although not universally, been recognised by police and military personnel. Not so in the case of the South African police where they followed the students into the church, first throwing teargas cannisters into the building and then firing live ammunition and damaging the marble altar and crucifix.

The statue of Christ which was allegedly damaged in these same riots was not damaged when I first visited the church in the late 90's. However, the story of Christ having no hands but our hands does make for a good tale.

One of the most prominent artifacts in the church is the painting entitled "The Madonna and Child of Soweto” mostly referred to as "The Black Madonna" by Larry Scully in 1973. A highly symbolic element of the painting is a large eye right under the Black Madonna. According to journalist Mpho Lukoto of newspaper The Star, the pupil of the eye represents the township of Soweto; two forks directed towards the pupil from the sides represent the violence that was used against the people of Soweto during the apartheid era, and the cross in the center of the pupil represents the Church that illuminates the people with hope. This is possible, but unlikely as by 1973 most of the “force” had not yet been used.

From 1995 to 1998, Anglican Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu presided over Truth and Reconciliation Commission hearings at Regina Mundi.

In March 1998 Regina Mundi President Bill Clinton and wife, Hillary, visited and took Holy Communion during the service. Since neither of the Clintons are Catholic, this caused a furore. Father Mohlomi Makobane, parish priest at the time, found it impossible to refuse the Clintons communion when they joined the rest of the congregation. Makobane said: "Let's be practical. He's a child of God and came willingly to share the Eucharist with us and pray with us ... And he's the most powerful man in the world … If I had denied him communion when he came with the procession … there would have been much more noise." . Makobane however chose to base his sermon on adultery at a time when the scandal around Clinton's adulterous affair hung heavily over the heads of the presidential pair. Makobane recalled the parable of the adulterous woman saved by Jesus Christ from being stoned to death.

Today, the church continues to play a vital role in the community and welcomes visitors. Tourists from across the world visit the church each day. The church’s garden has been transformed into a striking park, and points of interest include memorial stones donated by Japanese Christians, an art gallery and a plaque recording the history of the church and of Soweto.

Admission
Entrance is free but the church welcomes donations towards the maintenance of the church

Directions
Khumalo Street, off Elias Motsoaledi Road, Soweto

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There are several claims to a story about a statue of Christ which has been damaged by having its hands removed. The “I have no hands but yours” story is touching and usually involves war and bombing. The original story is apparently the one relating to the statue of Jesus outside Christ the King Catholic Church in San Diego. There vandals broke off the hands of the statue.

This legend has now been adopted by some about the Regina Mundi church in Soweto where there is a statue similarly damaged. The story is being passed around that the statue was damaged by the Apartheid police. There is no substance to this story. The Apartheid police damaged the altar and the crucifix above the alter by shooting at people sheltering there. The statue is a later, and convenient for publicity, addition to the lore of the Regina Mundi Catholic Church.

The phrase "Christ has no hands but ours" is a reference to this prayer by St. Teresa of Avila.

Lord Christ,

You have no body on earth but ours,
No hands but ours,
No feet but ours.

Ours are the eyes through which your compassion
Must look out on the world.
Ours are the feet by which you may still
Go about doing good.

Ours are the hands with which
You bless people now.

Bless our minds and bodies,
That we may be a blessing to others.

AMEN

A tour to Soweto (coming from SOuth WEstern TOwnship) is a must! Apart from seeing the real South Africa outside of your hotel (although the tours tend to stick to more sterile areas) the area plays a big part in the prelude to the new South Africa.

It is here that the Soweto uprisings in response to forced Afrikaans language in schools occured, and began a chain of events leading to sanctions and international pressure on Apartheid era South Africa.

Here there a couple of things to do of note: Hector Pietersen museum (named after a 12 year old boy killed in the riots), Nelson Mandelas old house / museum and the Regina Mundi church. And of course a trip to a local shebeen for some beer and maybe some food?

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No trip to South Africa is complete without visiting Soweto. Here, history was made in a negative and also in a positive way. As only one of many townships in South Africa, it became the symbol for the fight against Apartheid with the Soweto uprising of 1976 being the best-known event. Many tour guides offer accompanied tours through Soweto, but please take care and go only with certified guides. Although situation is slowly improving, Soweto can still be as dangerous as any township if you don’t know where the safe areas are. A tour should include the Hector Pieterson Museum which shows the events leading to the Uprising of 1976 and its impact on the anti-apartheid movement. Other places woth to visit are the Nelson Mandela house and of course, do not forget to experience the culture of modern Soweto by walking through the township (again: ONLY WITH A CERTIFIED GUIDE!) or eating in a restaurant.

Soweto was a town of its own between 1983 and 2002. For details on Soweto, please visit my Soweto page on VT.

I heard them say "Travelling to Johannesburg cannot be completed without a Township visit." So I took one to Soweto, the best-off township in Jo'burg. Coming here you're advised to have a registered local guide with you. There're lots of, what they call themselves, Township Experts to choose from. Most of the tour will take you to Apartheid Museum as well.

Soweto has a world-class 'Soweto Godspel Choir', you can buy their CDs anywhere across South Africa.

There're also, fewer agencies that offer a tour to Alexandra, said to be the grimmest township in Johannesburg....

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Soweto is the biggest Township in South Africa with a lot of history to accompany it. South Africa is quite a unique destination because of its segregated past where white and black were seperated by the Apartheid laws. While we have beautiful suburbs and big cities much of SA is also still very much 3rd world and the difference between the 1st and 3rd world is very true to a lot of the issues we still face in this country (erasing the inequality that exists because of our past). I believe that it is in EVERYONE's interest to visit a Township and if possible Soweto specifically. It is a fascinating place and despite many obsticles a community of hope and inspiration. Soweto is highly reccomended and there are many tours available in this area. It is advised that you use these operators as they are a sfaer option in travelling these areas. Check outh the link for more on this

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If you go to Johannesburgh you can't miss a trip to Soweto (South West Township), the larget and most famous township in South Africa.
Here the 16th June 1976 the black people started rioting against the apartheid.

Just to be safe, make an organized trip to the towniship, better if organized by the people who lives there. My trip costed about 200 rands.

While there see how things are changing, houses and services are getting better and how people is generally optimist about the future.

While there I suggest to visit the Regina Mundi church, the Hector Pieterson Memorial and the house of Nelson Mandela (which is now a sort of little museum, 20 rands the entrance).