Underberg Travel Guide

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Khotso Horse Trails, led by the fearless, and legendary Steve Black, has a pretty monopoly on all the horse trailing around this area. It's Khotso's horses, and Khotso's guides that take all people's from the different resorts on their little horsey treks. The best value is to go straight to Khotso, and get the really experienced guides take you on a 1, 2, or 3 hour ride. They also have 3 to 5 day rides that go deep into Lesotho - I haven't been on one of those, but knowing Lesotho to b the Kingdom in the Sky, it must b an absolutely epic adventure (although I do harbour a healthy respect for too much time spent in the saddle....it can only hurt. A normal 3 hour ride usually leaves my bottom in a retarded state of being).

The bird life of the Southern Drakensberg is wonderful, and an interesting combination of the grassland and mountain species with water birds thrown in for good measure around the streams and dams.

The water birds in particular were special, and from the stoep of our cabin at Lake Naverone, we were treated to the spectacle of a resident giant kingfisher plunging like a jet propelled dagger into the water and several species of heron stealthily stalking their prey in the shallows.

However, the high point for us was seeing this pair of crowned cranes striding majestically through the grass just off the Drakensberg Gardens road as we were bidding a reluctant farewell to this very special part of the world. None of us had ever seen these spectacular birds outside zoos or wildlife parks, so seeing them in the wild was a very special experience.

Over the years, there has been a lot of dam construction in the Drakensberg, some to provide water supply for agriculture, and some for tourism/recreational purposes.

The resort that we stayed at - Lake Naverone - is a trout farm that was established in 1947, and over more than half a century has become part of the landscape. In addition to the obvious opportunity to fly fish, we particularly liked the fact that each cottage had a rowing boat provided free of charge - all we had to do was to collect the oars which are kept at reception as a safety precaution.

There are other water activities in the surrounding area: the tourist literature mentioned that it was possible to go river rafting on the Umzimkhulu River, which can be organised either through your hotel or via one of the tour operators in Underberg.

One of the nicest ways to explore the Drakensberg is on horseback, and most resorts will have their own stable which caters for all levels of competence, from absolute beginners to expert riders. There are usually ponies for the children (who are taken out for short periods and lead by a groom unless they are already competent riders) and horses for the adults: most stables prefer to keep horses and ponies separate for outrides as this is much easier and safer to manage.

Don't worry about saving if you're an adult and want to ride but have never previously ventured on a horse - these resorts are used to such situations, so if this has always been a sneaking ambition of yours, then this is the time to give it a go.

Unlike neighbouring Lesotho (where pony trekking is very popular), there is a far greater emphasis on the safety aspect, so all stables will expect you to wear a riding hat, which can be borrowed at no additional cost. Closed shoes are usually a prerequisite and you'd be wise to wear long trousers to prevent chafing and long sleeves and sunscreen to avoid sunburn on longer rides.

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This gentleman rejoices in the splendidly Dickensian name of Punch Trollip and he is the owner of the Underberg cheesery, which is located on the River Glen farm about 5km outside of town.

Punch and his wife (somewhat disappointingly called Karin - I had of course been hoping for a Judy) have a herd of Jersey dairy cattle whose milk they use to make an excellent range of cheeses as well as yoghurts.

The cheesery is open for free tastings - see the website below for details on opening times. You can also buy their cheese in the local supermarkets, although that seems a disappointing tame option when for very little additional effort you could visit to sample and purchase the cheese more cheaply at its point of origin.

I was particularly impressed with their Hot Mexican cheese (brilliant in a toasted sandwich) and, ever one for a catchy brand name, I was much taken with their ParmeSani! (If you find this pun puzzling, then a quick look at the map will confirm that that Underberg is close to the base of the iconic Sani Pass).

Eccentric? Well, be sure to read the sign on the photo attached, and even if that doesn't convince you, then the entrance flanked by pot plants in a collection of old wellington boots probably will!

Underberg is the main centre for tour operators servicing the Southern Drakensberg, and there are many service providers to choose from, including the crowd pictured above (whose services, I must add, I have never used, and can therefore not vouch for).

Visitors are spoiled for choice in terms of the activities on offer in the surrounding region, from water sports to mountain biking, hiking, horse trekking and exploring Bushman paintings, so it's really a matter of reviewing the options and deciding what tickles your fancy. Personally I was tempted by the prospect of a half day historical tour of the Drakensberg Gardens valley and the river rafting, but sadly our schedule would not allow ... something to look forward to next time!

Unsurprisingly, perhaps the most popular offerings are the range of guided tours up the Sani Pass, which will appeal to those who either don't have transport suitable to attempt this trip and/or don't feel confident enough to tackle this challenging section of road.