All over Sudan, you'll find streetside cafes with burly men in dirty jellabiyyas ladelling brown sludge from a huge metal vat. This is fuul. In Khartoum, most local dukkans (grocers) have their own fuul pots, and you sit crouching by the side of the street.
Favorite Dish: Sudan's national staple food is fuul, essentially a bowl of mashed boiled beans. Now a bowl of brown sludge never appeals, so the Sudanese like to liven it up by adding extras such as jibneh (cheese), ta'amiya (felafel), toum (garlic), tamatim (tomatoes), shatta (chilli) and basal (onions), and topping it all with simsim (sesame oil). You scoop it out of the bowl using bread. Fuul done well can be delicious, but usually it is mediocre, and you can get terrible fuul which tastes as bad as it looks!
Variations include "bosh", which is upside down fuul....you fill a bowl with small pieces of bread, then mix into it a few beans, cheese, chilli and soak it all with fuul juice...this is the poor man's option, but if you eat late, this may be the only food available. Bosh, like fuul,can be good, but cold soggy bread is never the most pleasant of meals.
Updated Oct 26, 2009
This restaurant is one of my favorites for sure. It is in Omdurman, right off shari sita (street six). The ambience is incredible.....there are tables set up outside where people sit, eat, talk, laugh, and drink tea.
Favorite Dish: My favorite dish happens to be the only one they serve........bush. It is a very local dish that Sudanese love. It is fuul with the bread mixed in (for those of you who know what fuul is).
It is prepared by first choosing how much bread will be needed.....generally, it's about 3-5 per person. They give you the bread and a big bowl....tear the bread into small, bite-size pieces until it fills the bowl.
Next, take the bowl of bread to a boy sitting next to a large pot of fuul (beans). He will scoop out the fuul about 4 or 5 times, and then add a lot of juice from the beans.
Now, you take the bowl to the man standing behind a buffet-looking bar, and he will ask you what you want in it.....I suggest getting it all.
He will take boiled eggs, tamiya, goat cheese, peanut butter, tomatos, onions, and a wonderful spices and put them all in the bowl. He then uses a coke bottle to smoosh it all together until it becomes the consistancy of play-dough or thick mashed potatos. The final thing he adds is oil to make it all stick together.
The bowl is then taken to the table where everyone sits around and uses their right hands to take off pieces of this wonderful dish. The hand gets messy, but it is worth it!
This might sound like a nasty thing to eat, but I promise it is delicious....I took many of my american friends there, and always they loved it. It is a unique and deliciously sudanese place to eat.
Written Jun 15, 2007
Address: off of shari sita in Omdurman.
Don't expect any fancy eating places along the highways. There are traditional stopping places along the Khartoum-Wad Medani road that are used by long-distance lorry drivers and buses/coaches.
The first one is at Meseed where a string of cafes line the road. By day travellers can buy a cold drink , tea or coffee and a traditional breakfast of ful , eggs and sometimes liver .
At lunchtime traditional meals can be found, but it is in the evening that the place comes alive with the smell of grilled lamb. Plumes of smoke rise from the barbecue grills. The plastic chairs and tables are transformed under fairy lights, and lorries are double parked , waiting till the early hours to cover the last leg of their long journey from Port Sudan to Khartoum.
Another stop preferred more by buses is at Kamlin.
Written Apr 13, 2007
I was recommended to go to this restaurant and was looking forward to it. The plave was not that clean, most items on the menu were not available and what we got was all from packets or frozen food stuff.
Favorite Dish: None
Written Dec 22, 2006
Address: Riad
Actually, the fish is pretty fresh and not bad. It comes from the local fish market, only a few blocks away from this restaurant. You can get breaksfast, lunch and/or dinner here 7 days a week.
Favorite Dish: Nile River perch.
Updated Jun 12, 2006
Address: Morada Fish Market, Ombduran
Also located on the River Nile, this restaurant is a good choce for outdoor eating when visiting the Muslim neighborhood of Ombduran.
Favorite Dish: Random, unidentifiable fish -- resunebably caught fresh from the River Nile.
Written Jun 12, 2006
Address: Ombduran
If you can call anything in Sudan "touristy" this might be it. That said, it is not. There are very, very few tourists in this city at all -- mostly foreign busienss people, who find this restaurant safe and reasonably good. The location is nice -- right alongside the River Nile. You can even book a tourist cruise on the river from this location. Since the River is one of the best things about this city, I would recommend doing the cruise!
Favorite Dish: The buffet is standard, but perfectly good. Nothing stands out, however.
Written Jun 12, 2006
Delicious serves great meals and takeaway foods such as shawourmahs, beefburgers etc. at very reasonable prices. Delicious also has an Ice Cream Parlor in Riyadh near the McNimer pharmacy.
Favorite Dish: Good meals and takeaway foods such as shawourmahs, beefburgers etc. at very reasonable prices.
Updated Jun 12, 2006
If you are fed up with beans and falafel then there is the great opportunity to go for the best pizza in Sudan in the Pizza restaurant. Its located two blocks south of the Palace. The only disadvantage is the irrigated garden. The air is more humid than elsewhere in the city. Order your pizza (about 1000SDD) as a take away.
The best juice shop is on Sharia el Nile next to the Blue Nile Sailing Club. A juice pressed from fresh fruits costs 250 SDD.
Updated Mar 25, 2005
Favorite Dish: In every city or larger village there are places to eat. restaurants or take aways are every where. The cuisine will be traditional, for sure fuul (beans) and taamiya (felafel) will be served. Chai (tea) is served everywhere in the country.
Written Mar 22, 2005
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In every city or larger village there are places to eat. restaurants or take aways are every where. The cuisine will be traditional, for sure fuul (beans) and...
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