Khartoum Favorites

Favorite thing: I discovered nice Internet facilities at the Regency hotel (former Meridien), Central Kahrtoum (corner of El Qasr street and Said Abdul Rahman Street).

They have 6 computers in the nicely air-conditionned hall that you can use for 5 SDG per hour.

Don't expect a supr-fast access, but they work pretty well and the attendant (office on the right just before the computers) is very helpfull if something doesn-t work.

But they have no earphones and microphones, so forget VOIP calls.

The next day, I tried the facilities at the Horizon Hotel (corner of Abdel Minim Mohamed Street and Said Abdul Rahman Street). They offer Wifi Access for SDG 10 a day. And they have 2 computers in the hall with Internet access for SDG 4 per hour. The connection is rather better than at the Regency.

I found out that most american Internet sites are blocked by the Sudanese government. The big ones like MSN, Yahoo, Google, Youtube are however available. The government shut down Youtube, but the protests from the users were so heavy that they had to switch it on again.

My homepage is hosted in the US and I have therefore no access to my webmail. If this is the case for you, better forward all your mail to a Yahoo address or such.

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Favorite thing: I have lived in Khartoum now for 40 years and have seen many changes, particularly in the last decade. I used to drive all over the 3 towns , and for some years drove from the southern outskirts [Soba] to north Omdurman to what is now the Faculty of Education. I have done this trip in half an hour, but nowadays it will probably take 3 times as long as the traffic situation has deteriorated. Strange new road systems exist, and now it would take a lot to get me behind the wheel of a car again.
There has been a lot of beautification in the towns with trees and bushes planted , and new wide roads, as well as more bridges to make access to the three towns easier. But even with flyovers, there is still a lot of congestion once you reach the centre of town.

In spite of the obvious physical changes in the buildings- higher, more modern etc, the people are basicall much the same- generous, hospitable, friendly and charming.

Fondest memory: I used to love driving in the early mornings when the roads were empty, the air was fresh and cool.
The only way to bring these memories is to drive during the Eid when the streets are realatively empty.

Favorite thing: Morgran place where Bule nile meet white nile. A nice place full of restuarts and night clubs. Good to meet peopl or to have peace of mind. for video, pitures and info vist http://www.artunet.com

Fondest memory: Met nice women, went tof restuarts and night clubs and had lot fun!

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Favorite thing: Although Sudan is a very hot country, there are a few months of the year when rain is possible. The rain showers can be very heavy causing chaos to transport or even damage to property. Some [bad] years there is very little rain , but this year [2007] had exceptionally heavy rain.
The rain is welcome because it refreshes everything, from the spirit of the people because the temperature drops, to the plants which revive and lose their dusty covering.

Fondest memory: After the rains, the river level rises and changes the appearance of the river.

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Favorite thing: I like the way that in recent years care is being taken to make the city green.
Under the British administration the Nile avenue was lined with Mahogany trees. But throughout the late 20th century little real care was taken to make green parks and places for relaxation.
Now in 2007 palm trees line some roads, ficus trees and grass verges line others. In some areas there are areas allotted to grass and fountains for people to assemble for relaxation. And, they are well-used especially in the evening.

Fondest memory: The flower show which is held end of February or early March each year. It gives people the chance of seeing what can be grown in the country, and the chance to buy plants to beautify their own gardens. In a land that is desert or semi-desert, the more trees, bushes, plants and grass that are planted, the better. It makes the surroundings more attractive and helps to absorb the air pollution.

Favorite thing: When in Sudan, you can leave home without your American Express & other credit cards because you can't use them here (except for some travel agents & major hotels but it's a tedious process because the transaction is brought out of Sudan to Middle East, still I'd advise you not to take the chance)

Up until recently, the banks in Sudan never issued any ATM cards until now so maybe the credit card transactions will happen more often in the near future. Till then, bring loads of cash to pay for your accommodation, transportation & meals.

Favorite thing: The national currency in Sudan is the Sudanese Dinar (SD). It comes in denominations of 5000, 2000, 1000, 500, 200 & 100. The previous denomination was the Sudanese Pound and you'll still find merchants quoting their prices in them. Don't panic, to convert Pounds to Dinar, you'll only have to minus one "0" e.g 1000 pounds = 100 dinars

The 5000 & 2000 notes are still new so be aware when you change a few hundred US dollars into Sudanese Dinars, try to get the bigger notes otherwise you will carry a lot of cash (picture)

Update : As of Jan 2007, Sudan has adopted a new currency, the Sudanese Guinea. To convert the Sudanese Dinar to the new Sudanese Guinea, you have to minus two "0" e.g 100 SDD = 1 Sudanese Guinea (SDG)

At present, the exchange rate is roughly US$1 = 2 SDG

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Favorite thing: Since my mid-teens I have been interested in Ancient Egyptian history, so when I went to live in Sudan, the National Museum was the first place to go. It enabled me to see some of the temples that had been saved from the water of the High dam, to touch the stones, examine the carvings and see the painted walls.
After joining the Sudan Archaeological Society, I managed to visit a few sites. Then in 2001 we went to Cairo, where I was able to fulfil many of my dreams like visiting Luxor, Karnak, Abu Simbel..
Now back in Khartoum I have revisited the museum and am better able to appreciate it. The relocated temples are mainly associated with Rameses II, Hatchepsut, Tuthmosis III, and Senusret , so are truly Egyptian. But inside the museum itself it is clear that the two countries had a common culture , with local differences. The wooden beds are still in use today, ablution vessels are not so different. Even the features of the pharaohs are more Sudanese than 21st century Egyptian.

Fondest memory: Since visiting Naga and the Royal City of Meroe I have been attracted to the Meroitic rams. They have more character than those of Karnak. Those early sculptors of Sudan tried to imitate the fleece of the ram in stone and it is this that caught my attention. Some used a whorl like pattern, others an almost scale like pattern; others still carved the Khnum or Amun Ra =type ram with the wide horns. So, whenever I come across a meroitic ran- snap, click goes the camera shutter.
From a tip in Things to Do, I also show the Meroitic lion. I started taking pictures of lions in Alexandria where is a great variety, so was excited to see the lines of lions at the museum here were not stereotypes.
And I can’t miss out the two frogs, one at either end of the ‘river’. Frogs were placed as guardians at wells, water holes [hafirs] and ponds. [see too Botanic gardens]

So, whenever I have been away from Sudan I like to absorb myself in its history when I return.