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It must be 10 years since I went to the national Museum, and found that inside has had a complete face-lift. Better lighting, better arrangement and better labelling in most cases. For visitors who don't have the chance to go up to the north this may be the only way to see the treasures of Sudan. For those who may never visit Sudan, see the following tips too. The museum is in three parts at present. Outside are the temples that were saved when the High Dam was constructed in the 1960s. They were removed and set up in the grounds. An artificial 'lake' represents the Nile and the temples are situated along it in their relative positions to each other.There is no water in at present, but the walls are blue. At either end is a statue of a frog. The temples are protected by covers that should open and close, but I've never seen them open. Inside the museum, the ancient artefacts are on the ground floor. On the upper floor are Christian relics. There is now a plan to have an Islamic section some time in the future. The museum costs 1 Sudanese pound to enter [about half a US dollar]. It is open daily from about 9 or 9.30 am, except Monday and Friday. Photography is allowed outside and inside except you must not photograph the exhibits in the glass cases. Mea culpa- I did before we were told not to. Leave a Comment Address: on Nile AvenueDirections: It is on the left hand side after Grand Holiday Villa Hotel and Friendship Hall.
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Since the Sudan became self-sufficient in oil, there have been dramatic changes in the town. Old buildings are being replaced and new ones constructed. The style of the new buildings ranges from Arab to ultra modern high-rise buildings. have a look around . The Canar building was originally built for the office of Zaka distribution , hence the Oriental design; but has been rented out to a communications [mobile phone/internet] company. Perhaps with expectations of tourists, or more conferences to be held in Sudan, there have been a number of hotels started.The new Sheraton Hotel would not be out of place in Dubai with all the glass frontage.The Libyan El Fateh Hotel is nicknamed Gadhafi's Egg, because of its shape; and it is all blue glass. [See separate tip.] There has also been an upsurge in building mosques in recent years. Each one seems to outstrip the other in size and magnificence. Leave a Comment Address: Khartoum suburbs
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 fossil tree trunk by uglyscot Outside in the desert beyond Omdurman is an area with fossil trees. They are conifers and millions of years old. I was first attracted to the heavy lumps of stone when the street near our house was being made. They had been brought in the gravel, and were just left at the side of the road, so i took them home [ sometimes needing help, as they are heavy...], to form a rockery. Now the area is protected , or going to be, I think. To save yourself a journey if time is limited, some can be seen decorating the walls of houses, and most particularly the entrance to the Forests National Corporation . Leave a Comment Address: outside OmdurmanDirections: In Khartoum, the Forests National Corporation is across the railway bridge beside Khartoum Hospital, and slightly to the left.
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The Libyan built hotel [El Fateh Hotel] is called by the locals Gaddafi's Egg because it has the shape of an egg but with a protrusion on top.It is primarily white with windows of bright blue glass. Opinions waver between liking it, or hating it. I can't make up my mind. The building is not yet complete and the site is fenced off with a grey fence. Leave a Comment Address: northern end of University AvenueDirections: before it joins the forest road
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In Garden City there is a large area for Khartoum International Fair. It has been taking place annually for the last 25 years. The buildings were built by a British Company and claimed to have the widest single span . The walls are decorated with stones fixed in an attractive pattern. Part of the complex is used by the Sudan Free Zone [Duty Free]. Every year exhibitors come from all over the world to display their wares, machinery and culture. This is usually held in January. {I used to do the narration for the exhibition for several years before we left for Cairo!] As well as the exhibition halls there are cafeterias and food stalls, and away from the main buildings smaller kiosks where goods can be purchased. It is a highlight of the year in a country where there is not much to do. Recently it has become the venue for the annual Flower Show held about last Friday in February or first Friday in March. [See separate tip] Leave a Comment Address: Garden CityDirections: After Emtidad Nasser, turn off to the right on the branch road instead of going over the bridge to Khartoum North. The Fair site is so large it can not be missed.
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 Arab souq by uglyscot Have a jellabiya[ the long white dress men wear], or an araagi [the shorter version] or salwal [the wide under trousers with draw string waist] made to measure, or buy ready made. They are great for wearing around the house or for sleeping in. Leave a Comment Address: Souq el Arabi, central KhartoumDirections: from the central mosque, go north.
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 Students at University of Khartoum by mafi_moya A good way of meeting people (not that you'll ever have that problem in Khartoum!) is to pop along to the campus of the University of Khartoum and have a wander around. Security is pretty inconsistent, so you'll probably get in, and the students are always keen to grab unknown foreigners - you'll soon find yourself with numerous cups of tea and a captivated audience! This is the most famous and prestigious university in Sudan (it was formerly known as Gordon College in colonial days), although most of the formerly impressive buildings are in a somewhat delapidated state. It's fair to say the educational standard has gone down a bit in recent years too. The students will be delighted to have a khawaja to talk to and conversations can get quite political. Like many countries, universities in Sudan are a hotbed of political activity. In the current world climate there is plenty to talk about and you won't find many fans of Bush, Blair et al here. But while things can get emotional it always remains friendly and good-natured. Although talk of Palestine and Israel is guaranteed to get things heated! There are dozens of universities in Khartoum and all are interesting, but U of K is the most famous and its large spacious campus means it can be easy to just wander in. Leave a Comment Directions: The main campus runs along the Blue Nile, just before you get to the first bridge over to Bahri (Khartoum North)
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 WW2 Cemetery by mafi_moya After World War Two the colonial British government built a memorial cemetery to commemorate those killed in the fighting in Sudan. Allied troops from all over the world fought here in the north of the country, mostly in desert battles against the Italians. There are no actual bodies buried here, but the dead are remembered with simple white headstones, with crosses marking Christians. The colonial rulers are of course long gone but the cemetery remains very well kept, with pristine green lawns - probably the greenest and tidiest in the whole city! The cemetery is open all year round, but there's a service held here every year on Remembrance Day (November 11) that is well worth attending if you get the chance. Leave a Comment Directions: It's on the way to the modern area of Khartoum 2, a short walk south of the city centre. It's opposite the American Club and near the railway line.
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 An oasis of calm in chaotic Souk Arabi by mafi_moya Al Kabir Mosque (literally The Big Mosque) is probably the one attractive thing in Souk Arabi, the hectic and crowded central area of Khartoum. Mosques are rarely as ornate and intricately decorated as Christian churches or Hindu kovils, or as brash and brazen as many Buddhist temples, but their austere simplicity can be equally beautiful. This sandstone coloured building looks as though it should be rising out of the sands of the Sahara, not the Khartoum bus station!, and it's one of the city's most prominent places of worship. You can wander around the grounds and can usually have a look inside. At Eid festivals, however, it's absolutely packed and a fee is charged to pray there or it wouldn't be able to cope with the huge numbers wanting to get in. Leave a Comment Directions: At the western end of Souk Arabi, fairly near to the bus station to Omdurman. You can't miss it really
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The Botanic Garden is in the Mogran off el Gamaa street , in a side street near the new bank of Sudan building. They are a pleasant quiet place to be away from the hustle and bustle of Khartoum. The garden is divided into zones with different types of plants that attract birds. I got talking to a student who was doing a survey on the birds, and I was surprised at the variety that can be seen there. I myself was attracted to the Beautea tree where lots of tiny sunbirds were sipping the nectar [see photo below]. There are nurseries for plants in greenhouses too. An interesting feature is a fountain with four frog statues spewing water into the basin where red water lilies are to be seen. In Meroitic times, frogs were often placed where there was water. A similar feature can be seen at The Naional Museum. There is no fee to enter and walk round. Leave a Comment
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