UK Citizens (and other visa Nationals) are able to obtain a Togo Visa on arrival at Lome Airport. It works like this:
You queue to the right side of the immigration desks once in the arrivals area. There, you can ask for a visa on arrival form. It's self explanatory and simple to fill out. If an official helps you to complete the form, he will (of course) expect a small "cadeau" for providing his assistance.
Once the form is complete, take it and your passport to the desk on the right of the arrivals area where you will pay the fee. It is, officially, 15 Euros. However, if you do not have the correct change, you won't get any! On arrival at the desk, I personally was asked for 16 Euros, and didn't argue.
You hand over the documents and fees and then go to collect your bags, leaving the documents with the Immigration Office. Once you have your bags, you have to and queue for your passport back. We were informed by a Senior Officer that they often ask passengers to ome back after 24 hours if it's busy, but our Afriqiyah flight was pretty quiet so they processed everything in one go. No bribes, or attempted bribes were encountered getting the passports back, and Customs didn't seem at all interested.
The visa is valid for 7 days. To get an extension, you go to the Immigration Office in Lome. It's quite a way out to the North of the City (CFA 2000 for a private taxi). There, you have to pay a CFA 500 fee for a form, leave 4 photos and your passport with the completed form for 24hrs. The documents are submitted at one of the windows to the left of the building.
You then return the following day at 4pm to collect the passport. At 4pm, a large wooden box containing all the passports for visa extensions is brought outside by the officers. They then go through all the passports in order of nationality. The passports are bundled by nationality, so listen out first for your country and then for your name. The extension process is quick and hassle free. However, if you're visiting for a short period, the 24 our wait is a bit of a pain and ties you to Lome somewhat.
Overall, I found officials to be helpful and polite. Any attempts to get a donation from you were low key, non-threatening and seemingly half-hearted. On departure, I was asked by a Customs Officer for a "cadeau" as held held onto my bag after it had come out of the scanner. I explained that I had very little cash, and wanted it all to buy myself a beer from the bar at the airport. His reaction was a shrug of the shoulders, a smile and and a cheery "OK".
Visa: Visa on arrival when you cross the borders by land will be issued for 7 days stay. The price is 10000 CFA (15 USD). Beware that some immigration officers will ask for a dash bribe (1000-5000 CFA). Play stupid and tell them you don't understand, but be polite. They can make some hassle.
Mobil phone: Good roaming in Lome. Prepaid local SIM cards are very cheap.
ATM: Some ATM's in Lome.
Recommended language: French.
Infrastructure: Very poor.
Friendliness by the people: Friendly, but very poor.
Attention by Police/military: The police officers are very corrupt.
Crime: Togo is said to be a dangerous country. Don't flash with your money. The poverty is extreme, so be aware of walking alone in the streets at night or at the beach. However I didn't have any problems.
Rainy period: May, June and July. Then another from September to early October.
Price level: One of the cheapest West-African countries. The price level is about the same as Ethiopia if you want to stay in basic hotels and eat African food. Transportation is cheap.
Airport departure tax: N/A.
Fondest memory: The President of Togo is Faure Essozimna Gnassingbé (born on June 6th in 1966). He has been the President of Togo since May 4th 2005, when he was appointed to the government by his father, President Gnassingbé Eyadéma. The country is one of the worst dictatorship in Africa, and most of the population want him removed and replaced with a new selected President. But they fear him. Heavy armed soldiers follow the President wherever he goes (See pictures).
Favorite thing: Togo is a very religious country and a large number of the populace attend church on a Sunday. Services can be up to 2 1/2 hours long. Try the Calvary Temple of the Assemblies of God. Services at 7am, 9.30am and 14.00pm each with at least a thousand people in the congregation. I went to the 7am service and was made very welcome. Another good place to try is the German built Roman Catholic cathedral on Rue Du Commerce.
Favorite thing: it didn't happen to but but just take care. when they give u the money it is in stacks of ten bills with the tenth wrapping the other nine, check your money well and make sure it's the right amount. do not give him your money unless u r sure u've got yours. and ask him to check your money in front of u. don't change large amounts at a time. Better safe than sorry
Favorite thing: Banks usually close from 12:00 to 3:00 PM and on sat. and Sun. the easiest way to change money is at Le grand March, a 1 min walk from Palm beach hotel. u will find them anytime, just check the bank rates before you go.
Favorite thing: if you r buying anything from the street, like souvenirs or so, be sure to Bargain. sometimes they go mad with prices, just have the skill and the patience to do it and you will have a good deal for both of you
Favorite thing: one fact to get, Togo is a poor country, and for Togolese White people means rich people, so don't get shocked by their constant urge for money. But u will get to know that they are nice friendly people, at least not violent. if you don't wanna pay for something u just say it. that's it no strings attached.
Lomé is hardly on the average gourmet's list of places to visit, but it probably should be. Although cooking in West Africa is often tasty, it can be relatively repetitive, especially inland, where the range of fresh ingredients is often quite restrained (given those constraints, it's amazing just what some little restaurants are able to cook up, though!).
However, here on the sea coast, in a very lush area, there seems to be a very wide variety of foods available, and local restaurants make heavy use of the excellent fish that's there for the catching. Whether you go to one of the more upscale restaurants, or simple invest in a brochette (kebab) of barbecued fish with a tangy sauce, don't miss out on the seafood. The French influence is especially strong in Togo, and it shows in the most positive way on the menus.
Favorite thing: Try to meet local people. Visit the 'normal' villages, learn about the local life. This is very interesting! In my opinion, Togo is a real Africa - no many tourists, no special nature or monuments, but just Africa - with the sun, banana trees, smiling people, plenty of children...
Favorite thing: You can get the visa for Togo very easy at the border for 10000 CFA valid for 7 day's extendable to 30 day's at no extra costs in Lome.
Fondest memory: The electric current is like it is in France and most of the European countries, 220 V. The electric power stops working several times a day.
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