During the day we splurged on an air-con car with a guide to take us around to the sights. Dusty roads during the hot day are not my style. At night, we walked out of the Bagan Hotel and there were a number of horse cart "taxi"s right there. Make sure you find a driver who speaks English. Then take a quick ride, costs a couple of dollars at most. One of you rides on the bench seat with the driver and one sits in the cart on a pad. Or two of you can snuggle in the back. The "headlights" of the cart is a simple flashlight shining on the road ahead. The ride at night is much quieter.
Well, sorry to inform you that, night life seems doesn't exist in Bagan. You probably can enjoy a cool nice beer at one of the restaurant only after the sunset.