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I wasn't able to visit the caves here as out meetings went on for so long at Suoyang Fortress, but they are about 22km south-east of Suoyang Fortress (and are managed by the same people). On the way there, it is possible to visit the remains of the Taer Ta Si tower and temple. The Suoyangmu tomb field lies to the north of the first few kilometres of this road.
Written Jun 13, 2006
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There are almost countless old fortresses in the area north and north-east of old Anxi, most of which have never seen a single tourist, except perhaps for Marc Aurel Stein, 99 years ago. There is a map of the relics in the area on the wall of the Suoyang Fortress Visitor Centre.
Written Jun 13, 2006
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From 1st May 2006, the Suoyang Mu (Tombs) have been given state-level protection. This tomb field lies to the north-east of the Suoyang Fortress and stretch for tens of kilometres northwards, to the east of Qiaozicun and beyond. The tombs date from the Han through to the Tang Dynasties and are cleimed to be more significant than the Wei and Jin period tombs in Jiuquan and Jiayuguan. None of the Suoyang Tombs are open to the public yet, but they will be explained in the new Suoyang Museum, expected to be opened in 2007 or 2008.
Written Jun 13, 2006
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[NV]
The Yulinku lie about 25km south of the township of Tashi (also known as Suoyangxiang). I haven't been there yet, but they lie in two clusters alongside a river valley and are recommended by many visitors for feeling a bit more authemtic than the mad-house crush at Mogaoku in Dunhuang. These grottos are managed by the Dunhuang Research Academy.
Written Jun 13, 2006
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En-route to Suoyang lies the ruined fortress of Pochengzi, in the vilage of the same name. Little is known about this ~45,000 sqyare metre rectangular fortress but it is even better condition than Suoyang/Guazhou. The structure lies right next to the road, on the left hand side. Beyond the eastern wall is a river bed and the rest of the village. Sadly a LV power transmission line has been constructed right across the middle of the fortress, an indication of just how little respect the Chinese paid to their own cultural heritage for several decades. In this part of Gansu, the intrusiveness of overhead power lines at key heritage sites is quite staggering, notably at and around the Jiayuguan Fortress, the First Signal Tower at Jiayuguan and right above the main Xiliang Tombs at Jiuquan.
More photos in Travelogue
Written Jun 13, 2006
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The fortress itself is the furthest structure, and is divided into two parts by a curtain wall. Outside and to the north is the huge expanse of the Tang Dynasty Guazhou city, while to the immediate east of the fortress/inner city is the horse-breeding enclosure. Horses were critical to the development of Chinese military strength in the Hexi corridor, and Anxi was one of the main breeding areas. (Another one is at the Shandan Imperial Ranch, east of Zhangye).
The walls at Suoyang are around 8 metres high, and are ruined but long stretches are intact. The best vantage point is at the north-west corner, where a towe remains in good condition (although it has required heavy rebuilding on one corner to prevent its collapse). Take great care while up here as there is a sheer ten metre drop and the parapet at the top of the wall is very narrow, and the edge has deteriorated!
Written Jun 13, 2006
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The fortress itself is the furthest structure, and is divided into two parts by a curtain wall. Outside and to the north is the huge expanse of the Tang Dynasty...
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Great walls rise up out of the sand, providing some little shade from the sun. Even though it is only 8.30 in the morning, the sun is powerful and unforgiving. As are the biting flies - the chaobing -...
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