Best coffeehouse in the Shui
I've no idea its name, unfortunately, but it's most easily identified by the flag hanging out front, it's light purple interior walls, and atypical music (no chinese pop here, but miles davis wouldn't be surprising). Standing at the junction of the two walk streets, there's a stairway in the southwest corner. Go up to the second floor, take a left, and follow the outdoor corridor three quick turns, it's the first place on your left, on the corner. The coffee is brewed, not instant. The owner fantastically charming and kind.
An offshoot of walk street, just to the side of the KFC, is snack row. Don't let it's streetiness put you off, in two years of living and eating here I never once got ill. If you're still a little wary, stick with the muslim vendors (identifiable by bilingual signs and people in white hats), as they do not serve pork in any form.
Local specialities to try :
mianpi (a spicy noodly dish)
shaguo (lit. sandpot) - can be had with a variety of ingredients, many have uncooked ones on display for those who need to point and eat)