Fun things to do in Tibet

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There are really only three ways to see Mt Everest. One of these involves trekking in Nepal, the other requires a flight from Kathmandu and the third way is the one we chose, driving in from Lhasa, TIbet. It's not a short trip, and takes several days (with terrible roads, but beautiful scenery).

There are some shots I took while at EBC

In the Gelugpa and Sakya traditions, monastery lamas are required to take part in the debates to further their study of Buddhism and progress to more advanced concepts. For this purpose, debates - both training and actual ones - are held on almost daily basis at the monasteries - some of which the visitors can witness.

The debates are usually an hour to two hours long, and monks - splitting themselves into groups of usually 3 to 6 people (although we've seen larger groups) - will debate different points of the Buddhist teachings. One monk - the 'debate leader' - illustrates the theory and then gets everybody involved into the discussion. Words are most often supplemented by clapping of hands, or sometimes even physical pushing for an answer!

Where?

The most famous monastery that allows you to see the debate is the Sera monastery (usually from 3pm in the afternoons, Monday to Friday). We've also seen smaller debates at the Sakya monastery.

What?

Sakya Monastery is the main religious centre of the Sakyapa school of Tibetan Buddhism, which dominated the religious life of the country before the rise of the Gelugpa school.

Where?

Just off the main Friendship Highway leading to Tingri, but very much on the tourist trail. It's about 125km away from Shigatse, and is usually visited on the Shigatse to Tingri leg of the trip to either Everest Base Camp or Kathmandu.

In More Detail

Originally built in the 13th century with the help of the Mongols (hence different architecture to temples in Lhasa and Shigatse itself), the monastery has been rebuilt several times, most notablly in the 16th century and after the Cultural Revolution when, like most of the religious Tibetan buildings, it has been destroyed. Lhakang Chempo is the only properly ancient building, with the rest being reconstructions

The highlight of the monastery is undoubtedly the library, described by the British pundit (i.e., spy) Sarat Chandra Das (over 80,000 scrolls have been preserved)

Taking Pictures?

Yes, for a fee (except in the library, but I did not know that)

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Karo La is one of the mountain passes (ca. 4950m high) you drive through following the Tibet's main tourist circuit, the loop from Lhasa to Everest Base Camp (or the road to Kathmandu) - you visit it on your first leg of travelling from Lhasa to Gyantse.

Festooned with prayer flags, the pass is pretty much at the foot of the Karo La (or KharoLa, as it's spelled on the sign) glacier. The pass is also an important historical location, being the site of one of the highest-altitude battles fought by the British army against the Tibetans during Francis Younghusband's expedition to Lhasa in 1914.

As with all stops en route, there are some basic toilet facilities and souvenir stalls. You can also take pictures of people in national costumes (kids and women, usually) for a small fee.

What?

The old expedition base camp at the foot of Mt. Everest at the altitude of 5,200m - offering some of the best views of the great mountain (provided the weather cooperates!). This is not where the current expeditions set up main operations, though - that one is more commonly known as the ABC, or Advance Base Camp. The base camp (which you can look over from a small hill festooned with prayer flags) is where the bulk of the load is kept.

Visiting

EBC is commonly visited as part of a Land Cruiser trip from Lhasa (either a loop or going on to Nepalese border), although you can trek from either Rongbuk monastery or lower down. If you are in a Land Cruiser, you will have to switch to a government-run bus to reach the EBC from a collection of tents that is a makeshift base camp hotel.

Things to keep in mind

- In choosing to make the trip, you're very much relying on the weather - we saw only the North Col for most of the time, and only got 2-3 glimpses of the mountain higher up and its top

- 5,200m is high, so without proper acclimatisation (or if you're particularly prone to it) you may experience AMS (acute mountain sickness) symptoms. If you do - as you're only on a short trip - you can buy oxygen at the base camp

- You can not proceed past the sign barring the road past the hill ('tourists cease step') - that leads to the base camp and further up the mountain. Heavy fines (not to mention unpleasant conversations with Chinese authorities) await if you do.

What?

Tibet is has scores of pilgrimage routes, or koras, which circle around the sacred locations - lakes, mountains, monasteries. There are even special guidebooks detailing the routes, as well as giving practical advice to the pilgrims. It is believed that circumambulation of certain locations is particularly recommended for given purposes, for example, a circuit around Mt. Kailash offers the possibility of release from the cycle of rebirths within 3 lifetimes, while others give the chance of becoming a Buddha or a better rebirth in general

Things to keep in mind

- For a Buddhist shrine or a sacred location, follow the clock-wise route, keeping the location to your right at all times. Only if you're circumambulating a Bon shrine should the circumambulation be done anti-clockwise

- Koras at certain times of day or year are considered more auspicious (e.g., at sundawn or sunset)

Koras I've done:

- The Potala kora, around the Dalai Lama's winter palace in Lhasa

- The Barkhor kora, around Tibet's holiest shrine, the Jokhang temple

- The Drepung kora, where we've done a smaller circle inside a monastery

- The Tashilhunpo kora, in Shigatse, offering some of the bext views of the city

- The Sakya kora, inside the main monastery of the Sakyapa order

Koras I'd love to do: Mt. Kailash and Lake Manasarovar

What?

Shigatse is Tibet's second largest city, and is home to one of Gelugpa's largest and most important monasteries - the Tashilhunpo (which was also the seat of the Panchen Lama). The city is part of Tibet's most popular tourist route, Lhasa to Everest Base Camp and/or Nepal.

What to See

The Tashilhunpo monastery is the major highlight, together with its kora which offers excellent views of the city. The dzong is another notable building, although little remains to be seen inside.

Favourite Things

- The Tashilhunpo monastery, one of the best preserved in Tibet with richly decorated chapels (and fewer tourists than in the main monasteries around Lhasa)

- The Tashilhunpo monastery kora, with its views of the city

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What?

Tibet's capital, the home of the world-famous Potala and the former residence of the Dalai Lama. This is where the majority of the first time visitors to Tibet (like me now) spend most of their time. The city rose to prominence in 7th century AD, when Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo started the construction of its most famous buildings - Potala, Jokhang, Ramoche, as well as of some of the surrounding monasteries.

What to see?

Too much to mention in one trip (and hopefully I will get around to building the Lhasa page one day), but the highlights rightfully include Jokhang and the Barkhor, pilgrim koras, Potala, Norbulingka, Sera and Drepung monasteries. There are also numerousn smaller temples and shrines in the city where you may well be the only one visiting

Favourite Things

- The Barkhor Kora - atmospheric, with most pilgrims and feels the most authentic. As all koras, best either at sundawn or sunset

- The Potala - amazing museum which comes alive as the pilgrims are now allowed to enter and worship as well

- The Potala Kora - apart from contemplation, amazing for searching out those best views of Potala for a photo trip later on

- Photography - although you can't shoot inside Potala and most famous temples/monasteries, there are plenty of outside shots worthy of attention (especially in Barkhor and by Potala in the evening)

And, while it may seem strange to list it here, but

- St. Regis - an amazing resort, one of the best I've stayed in, made even more remarkable by the difficulties of maintaining such high-class facilities away from most commercial centres/top tourist cities