Getting Around Tibet

Given the state of the roads and the requirement for foreign tourists to travel around Tibet with a guide and a host of travel permits, the most practical way of seeing the country is by a hired Land Cruiser (any 4x4 will do of course, but Land Cruisers seem to be a national institution in this part of the world). It is, unfortunately, also the most expensive way to get around, but given that a larger Land Cruiser can comfortably fit 4 prople the cost, when shared, can still be tolerable.

The Land Cruiser also allows for more freedom to visit out of the way sites (some monasteries, for example, are visited only by pilgrim trucks) and considerably speeds up your travel, given the still rudimentary network of public transport in Tibet. Also, such a car (or any 4x4) will make it possible to visit the Everest Base Camp as there is no public transport going there beyond Tingri/Shegar, and the Everest Access Road is in much worse condition than the main Friendship Highway (although still more than decent once you remember where in the world you are!).

Although there are a number of driving tours now arranged whereby you drive into Tibet from either China or Tibet, and the train is operational, the most popular way for tourists remains catching a flight to Lhasa.

From abroad: the only international flight serving Lhasa at the moment is the Air China flight to/from Kathmandu (despite this, there is an international arrivals/departures terminal in Lhasa!)

From China: there are connections from a number of cities, with the most flights being from Xi'An and Chengdu - we've caught a flight from Shanghai (it did involve change of planes in Xi'An, but as the flight number was the same the our Tibet permit still said Shanghai as port of entry). The major domestic routes into Lhasa are run by Air China and China Southeastern

Things to keep in mind:

Lhasa is one of the world's highest airports, so flights can be affected by bad weather (happened to us, causing a few hours' delay in Xi'An), so it would be wise to be flexible with arrival and departure flights

We tried to use this airport because the road to Lhasa was taken out by a rock slide when we attempted to drive overland to Lhasa. It was several days drive back to Zhongdan or Chengdu.

I am told that the Chamdo/Pomda/Bangda airport in Tibet is the world highest airport at 4334 meters, about 14300 feet. We arrived in the snow and fog before dark. We were told the airport has no landing aids so is a VFR airport. Flights were canceled for days because of the weather and would probably be canceled tomorrow. We were also told that sometimes flights are canceled for over a month!

So, don't rely on using this airport or you could get stuck.

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I attempted drive overland across Eastern Tibet to Lhasa in May/June 2006 but had to turn back because a rock slide took out a road. They were building new roads so it should be better now.

Arrangements for a vehicle and driver could be made at the TTB (Tibetan Tourist Board) in Zhongdian back then. I don't know about now, with this year's earthquake and political things in Tibet. I also heard the train tracks were recently damage by a more recent earth quake. I believe you can fly into Lhasa now.

Back then, I not only needed a permit for Lhasa, but also permits for the overland part. There were talks about removing some of these requirements but the political events earlier this year may have prevented this.

I have some photos on my Tibet and Lhasa pages. My third travel log on the Tibet pages talks about some of the problems I had. But I have more to post and have not yet added the part where the TTB said my permits were fake and fined the driver 2000 rmb.

All in all, it was a great experience and I recommend it even with all the problems I had. I would like to do it again some day, this time without having to turn back. Many of the roads were horrible but I could see they were building new roads and tunnels.

As a side note, driving in helps you get use to the altitude because you go up and down over the mountains passes. I got up to over 5008 meters without any problems. My friend was having problems every time we went over 4000 meters but got use to it over time and had no problems when we hit 5000.

Please rate this and my other tips when you find them useful, interesting, or like the photos.

The route between the capital and a village near Mount Everest, Tingri, is about 600km. If you think to do it in one day, go with very patient... We went with our driver and our guide in a jeep, and I didn´t see other way to do it!

Throughout the route there are periodic inspections of Chinese police, in order to monitor the speed. It appears that there were many deaths on the roads, so they implemented a minimum time per route. For example, do 45 km in 45 m. If the driver does not comply with, will pay a fine. So the journey becomes very slow, implying stops for reaching the minimum time.

Clear that driving is not the best and prepare for moments of emotion. Crossings, double lines at or above the left, are mere rules, never being satisfied. On dual carriageways as of today (one in each direction), is constantly being in the left lane and pass up to three cars in parallel simultaneously. It can also happen that we have to overcome the berm, including the left. I would say that I understand the speed limit ...

I´ve made the drive in to Lhasa , and a number of high altitude runs in the Indian Himalayas : flying in is a lot better for your body. Sleeping altitude is what really matters , and Lhasa is the lowest sleeping elevation on the Ktm-Lhasa route . First night is normally spent in Nyalam which is slightly higher than Lhasa , and the the following two nights are spent between 3900-4300.Between that you do a number of passes and plateaus between 4500-5100.

BTW , a news story appeared today about a bus line between Ktm and Lhasa ( http://korta.nu/ktmlhasa10 ) , but be still my heart , hopes have been dashed before.

Qinghai-Tibet Railway is currently the only railroad to Tibet from other cities of China, including Beijing, Chengdu, Chongqing, Guangzhou, Shanghai, Xining and Lanzhou.

This railway section is famous not only for the argument and criticism around it, but also for its captivating plateau scenery.

Here is the most detailed map of the Qinghai Tibet Railway that I can find online. Hope it can be helpful!

(Source: http://www.tibettravelplanner.com/train/qinghai-tibet-railway.htm)

Where to book the Trip in Kathmandu ??? this is always a BIG question as there are so many travel agents in Kathmandu especially around Thamel !!
My Recommendation would be to go to " Himalayan Magic Adventures ", Nermal Nakarmi who runs this Travel Agents is a Very Helpful Gentleman and I have always found him Good to " Deal " with !!!!
As I have previously mentioned, I have been to Nepal three times now and in all my times there I have never found a better Travel Agent !!
He will be glad to organise Everything, the Chinese visa, the Tibetan Travel Permit, all the Transportation and Guides through a link up with " Lhasa Travel " ( this will include all the accommodation and breakfasts as well as all the admission fees to Museums and Monasteries + the Potola Palace ) and the flight back to Kathmandu if required !!
His prices are Very Keen, he is Honest and Trustworthy and I Personally can give him the BEST of Recommendations !!!