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by jadedmuse The Chinese are constructing a railway system that will make Lhasa an integral part of the People's Republic of China. They plan to have it finished by 2007. Lhasa which only recently was known as the seat of the Forbidden Kingdom, has more and more of a busy Chinese feel to it. Even the magificent Potala Palace is getting lost in the chaos. If you've EVER thought of going to visit this mysterious country of Tibet, you must go NOW. See it for yourself. It will be an overwhelming and deeply gratifying experience - but one that will leave you feeling conflicted and even helpless....wistful, sad. And maybe that is really a small price to pay for cultural enlightenment. Peace. Leave a Comment
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 Inside an upper courtyard of the Potala Palace by jadedmuse Beware. Big Brother is watching at all times! You'll find tiny "spycams" nestled inside the rows and rows of scripture that are housed in all the monasteries. I especially noticed them in the Potala Palace. Don't dare to take out any photos of the Dalai Lama while you can be seen on camera. The monks sometimes will escort you away from these areas to a place "off cam", if they think you might want to give them something Big Brother won't approve of (like a photo of the Dalai Lama)...but it's up to you to be responsible and tread carefully. Tibetans are severely punished - monks and civilians - for engaging in type of "insurrectionist" activity against "the State" - and this includes the possession or even the witnessing of, photos or similar representations of their exiled leader the 14th Dalai Lama. Leave a Comment
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 Insignia of Tibet and the Holy Lamas by jadedmuse There was NO WAY I was NOT going to bring a picture of the Dalai Lama with me to share with the Tibetan people, no matter what I'd read. So, I cut a small photo of His Holiness, laminated it, and carried it with me in my pocket or sometimes hidden inside my Lonely Planet Book. The monks were stoked when I "asked them a question", pointing to my Lonely Planet book (and the picture hidden inside!) as though I were referencing something I happened to read there. Believe me, the Tibetans are happy and grateful to see a picture of their spiritual and political leader - but practice extreme caution when showing his photo because they will get in trouble if any of the cameras catch you. The Dalai Lama is "illegal" in Chinese-occupied Tibet and yes, there are spy-cams inside the monasteries! Leave a Comment
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 You might need this oxygen tube, or you might not! by Confucius I heard all the horror stories before my trip to Tibet; passengers puking and potato chip bags exploding on the train. I didn't see any of that and did not experience any altitude sickness on the train or while touring Lhasa. I also did not take any preventative medicine as recommended by some tour agencies, so my conclusion is that the high altitude sickness is an exaggerated concern for most healthy travellers. I was travelling on the train with a lot of international journalists and some other western VIPs; none of them experienced anything beyond a mild headache. I did see some potato chip bags expand, but not explode. Oxygen is available on the train and I did see several people take the tube into their nostrils. I tried it just for the novelty of the experience, not out of necessity. My first experience in Tibet out of the train was at Naqu, which is about 4500 meters. Lhasa's altitude is around 3640 meters, and I went elsewhere in Tibet at altitudes over 4000 meters. I never had a headache, which is supposed to be the first symptom of altitude sickness. The bottom line is that I don't believe you should be afraid of altitude sickness unless you have pre-existing medical conditions or are prone to frequent headaches. Enjoy your trip! Leave a Comment
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Beware when you are flying to Lhassa your landing altitude is nearly 4000 M. One of the unexpected consequence for me was what happened to my toiletteries bag. In fact, all bottle of after shave and skin care have seen their contain expanded and eventually spread inside the bag ! To avoid it, either take them with you in hand luggage and open the bottles before the descent or leave them in your main bag but slghtly open. Leave a Comment
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 a 5000m pass just right for altitude sickness by mad4travel One of the things you will get warned about in Tibet is altitude sickness. It will usually strike about 6 hours after landing in Lhasa and can consist of headaches, dizziness, nausea , loss of apetite and lack of sleep. The ways to get round this are to drink water like its going out of fashion (around 3 litres a day) for the first few days you will pee like hell but stick with it and you'll get back to normal. Also, don't over do it in the first few days, have a lot of rest and don't visit too many monasteries or the Potala Palace where there are loads of steps to climb. If you can get hold of it, take half a Diamox tablet twice a day. Its hard to get in the UK as doctors can't prescribe it for altitude sickness, although you can get it on private prescription from a travel clinic. If you are travelling to Lhasa via Kathmandu pop into a Pharmacy and buy it over the counter, its very cheap. Also, get some Ciprofloaxin, an antibiotic for the dreaded Delhi Belly (which could be the dreaded Lhasa belly if you eat in the wrong places) thats about 70p for 10 tablets. Leave a Comment
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Make sure you wrap up warm for the boat journey across the Yarlung Tsangpo River to Samye, as the winds can make the journey quite chilli. You can also encounter rain if you are unlucky, and the boat is open, so there is no cover. We were lucky to have a bright, sunny day. Also on the high altitude passes, the wind chill factor can make the temperature feel much colder than it actually is. We went in September, and it was comfortably warm during the day and a little chilly at night. Some hotels don’t provide thick enough bedding, so it may be worth taking a sleeping bag. Leave a Comment
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One afternoon, two of us decided to find the nunnery on the rocky outcropping across from the Potala known as Chakpo Ri. We eventually found a path leading higher and soon encountered the Chinese-installed steel door. The one designed to stop tourists. Most tourists, that is. Never one to heed signs--particularly signs that proclaim, in hand-lettered English "Do not climb mountin [sic]." I decided that an open door was an invitation. Besides, a soldier was standing nearby and if they really didn't want tourists to climb the mountain that they would inform me before I entered the doorway. Hearing nothing from the soldier, I went through the door and began to climb the stone pathway. As I ascended the first few steps, a Chinese soldier appeared from around a corner some fifty feet ahead of me, on his way down the same path. He was smiling and soon I heard shouting behind me. I assumed that his comrades were greeting his return from his shift at the peak. After continuing for a few more steps, something made me stop. I can't recall now but I imagine that it must have been a subconscious realization that I heard my friend screaming for me to stop. Whatever the reason, I turned just in time to see a soldier of the People's-not-so-peaceful Liberation Army rushing toward me, brandishing the long switch in his hand. Oops. Ever obedient, I stopped. Raised my hands and said something probably silly in the most deferential and obedient tone I could muster. He spoke no English and my Chinese is similarly extensive. He glared. I shriveled. Walking away quickly seemed wise. So we did, unhindered. Leave a Comment
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 wild dog of Tibet by tremendopunto Since I did not have any rabbies vaccination, I was always nervous about the wild dogs of Tibet. Despite having dogs in the family and beeing used to dogs very much - you never know what the wild dogs are up to. I always tried to keep as much distance between us as possible. If they come too close or they act strange picking up a stone from the ground or acting like doing so did make them stay away. Leave a Comment
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by mavl if you are going to visit nam-tso for a day trip (not staying overnight), here's something to consider: when you see this sign - which is right at the entrance of the zigzag road that goes to nam-tso lake - make sure you visit the toilet/loo on the other side of the gate. it's pretty much the last you'll find. i didn't see any while i was at the lake which is at least 45 minutes away. there could have been a makeshift one somewhere there in the campgrounds but i didn't go that far. so better be sure, right? considering that you'll want to spend at least an hour or two at the lake plus the 45 minute drive back, that's at least 3 hours without a toilet/loo - especially because it'll be biting cold and the winds will be blowing like crazy, that's a pretty long time, huh? besides, when you get to the lake, you'll want to spend the whole time taking in the spectacular views. the last thing you want is wasting your time looking for a loo! that loo by the entrance isn't much, by the way. it's more of a hole in the ground with a roof and a wall to spare everybody the agony of seeing your bottom. there are also no doors, even for the cubicles - this i personally found embarrassing (oh well, i'll never see that guy again anyway).
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