Lijiang Favorites

Favorite thing: The old town of Lijiang is spread over quite a large area and all I had for navigation was a silly little map in my Lonely Planet. However, as you'll walk around you'll see these maps of the local area where you are which prove a great help as things do look the same!

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Favorite thing: There is so much of touristic interest in the Lijiang area that you could very well miss the contrasts. These are not just between the old "touristic" part of the city and the new city. Inside the city are pockets of not so old, not so new vestiges of socialist China. If you had the time I would take you to an old market neighborhood and to an old bread factory still functioning seemingly as it has for the last fifty years.

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Favorite thing: One of the neat things about Lijiang is, of course, the fact that it's unlike most other cities in China. Part of that difference is phony, namely Wangu Tower (Looking at the Past Pavillion) and all the shopping in town, and part is real- the street lamps, walls and other remains of the old city. At the very least, there has been an effort made to keep all the development in the old town in keeping with the look and feel of the old town. This preservation is somewhat unique in China, by my experience. Regardless, it's a nice touch. It adds to the feel of the place. Of course, China is growing around it, but in town it's hard to see that.

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Favorite thing: Lijiang is a calming and relaxing place, provided you aren't having to deal with boat-loads of tourists. The cool, morning streets are quite pleasant to walk, amidst the smells of coal smoke and breakfast. It doesn't feel like much of the rest of China- early in the morning. There isn't the hectic chaos of life and pollution of noise that pervades everything in urban China. Lijiang exists as a respite from that world, though China, as always, isn't going to let Lijiang be. You see the construction that comes in the name of progress, bearing the flag of new growth, with all the pomp and circumstance that it carries with it into the new future for China. And I, personally, shake my head. In part in sorrow, for what will be so ravenously and ignorantly lost. In part, for the lack of concern expressed by the people. Beauty is cast in concrete way too easily in China.

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Favorite thing: Walking on a bridge, above the clouds at 4500m above sea level at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. It's the closest to heaven as you can get when you look at the bright blue expanse of snowy white clouds.

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Favorite thing: Once you decided to stay some days in Lijiang, I would recommend you to book a hotel in the ancient city of Lijiang and not in the new and modern city. This new one is expending very quickly, and had, in my opinion, no interest; just some big avenues, big buildings without any caracter, which you can find everywhere.

Fondest memory: In spite of many new and confortable hotels in the new city, I think it's much more interesting to book a hostel or a hotel or a yought hotel in the ancient city, rated at very cheap to more expensive. In the ancient city you feel really the old hart of China beating, even when the whole ancient town is a bit touristic, but anyway charming and original.

Favorite thing: At Naxi, some donkeys were awaiting to be rented by hikers who wanted to have their luggage carried for the next stage to the highest point of the trek (cost maybe 4 USD).

I found this not necessary since you can take all the time you need, but then we were enjoying the pleasant winter climate and I can imagine how exhausting it could be when it's summer and over 30 Celcius!

The trail goes up steeply from the village and at every bend, you think: Is this the first of the famous series? But once you reach the real first bend you know it, looking up a sheer cliff face, and you realise that it all still has to start!

Favorite thing: The toughest part of the trek is right here at the bends, although it is not at any serious altitude (around 2600m.) and still relatively easy to cope with by most hikers.

Nevertheless its long and steep and hot as you are unprotected from the sun. Best advise is to maintain a slow pace and keep going rather than rushing up which likely has to be paid off with some serious breaks to find new breath.

A rock marks the summit of this trek where you can buy a refreshment from the lady who runs a little stall. Views from here are superb!