Kumbakonam Off The Beaten Path

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The emperor Rajendra Chola I (1012-1044) built a large palace in Utkottai, where a mound now called Maalikai Medu (Palace mound), which is 1.5km away from the Brihadishwara Temple. All that remains are its ruins which are maintained as a protected monument by the Tamil Nadu Archaeological Survey (State ASI). The palace had two floors including some sculptures, and paintings on the wall. Some of the beautiful handicrafts include elephant ivory, bones and Chinese style painted items prove that the Chinese accompanied with Tamil people in the Chola period.

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There is a small museum outside the temple on its northern side where you'll find some Chola exhibits from neighbouring sites but it's not all that interesting or worth the entrance fee.

Open: 10am-5.45pm closed Fridays. Admission: Rs50 for foreigners.

This lion guards a small well just beside the main temple. According to legend, when Banasuran ruled this area, he was unable to reach the River Ganges in order to take a holy bath. He requested and prayed to the goddess Ganges to appear in this well.

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Meaning "The City of the Chola who took the Ganges", Gangakondacholapuram, is located 35km north of Kumbakonam and was once the capital of the powerful Chola dynasty that was founded during the reign of Rajendra Chola I (r. 1012-1044) until their demise 250 years later. Rajendra Chola I, son of the Great Rajaraja I, established this temple, after his great victorious march to the River Ganges in northern India to bring back pots of the sacred water on their heads to the city.

Built as a replica of Thanjavur's Brihadishwara Temple, this temple is all that remains of the city. The temples towered sanctum is shorter, at 49 metres (160 feet) than its name-sake but just as decorated. You walk into the walled temple complex through the main entrance which would have been where the main gopuram (tower) would have once stood. You then come to a large Nandi Bull which faces the temple. The main temple is surrounded by six small shrines and a large lion statue that guards a well.

Open: 6am-12pm & 4-8pm.

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Damaged statues were collected from various places in the ruins of the city and are now located in the Maalikai Medu.