Unique Places in State of Arunachal Pradesh

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We Looked for a Paradise and Found it at Arunachal Pradesh
Partha De Sarkar

“What a catch!” Monpa youth gave a proud smile as he posed for photograph with the huge mahaseer, a fish found in the Himalayas.
We were on a fishing trip on the River Jiabharali close to Bhalukpong. Bhalukpong is the entry point of West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh.

From Tezpur we were on our way to Tawang. We crossed the Sonai-Rupai Wildlife Sanctuary. A huge and gorgeously coloured hornbill flew over our vehicle as we were standing on a bridge.

Arunachal Pradesh, the horse shaped state, has borders with Bhutan, Myanmar and China. It has rich culture and ecological heritage – a land as yet largely unexplored. Almost all inhabitants of this picturesque area are tribes. They are colourful, hardy and hospitable. They are fond of singing and dancing.

Tipi has an Orchidium where we saw 7,000 varieties of orchids and cactus and understood why orchids are called “Heavenly Flowers”. We spent the night at Numeri Wildlife Sanctuary’s Eco-camp in tents among millions of fireflies. Early sun made the dew drops shine like pearls. It was really beautiful introduction to the forests and hills of Arunachal Pradesh. The sun rises the earliest and therefore it is called “Arunachal”, which means ‘The Sunrise’.

On our way to Bomdila, we were among the mountains. Clouds floated into our vehicle. The road still had traces of snow. The first sight of Bomdila town from the highway is impressive. Colourful houses were on the steps of the hills. Trees and upper reaches had snow. From Bomdila (2530m), we could see mind boggling sight of snow bound peaks. We had our accommodation at the Circuit House.

We visited the Bomdila Monastery and to the Chorten (Buddhsut temple). The Chorten is colourful and impressive. Back at the Circuit House, we sat at the balcony and snowcapped Himalayas were right in front of us covering the entire horizon.

Next day, we drove to the Monpa village. Monpas are inhabitants of Bomdila-Tawang area. These people have more affinities with the Bhutanese culture and traditions. We saw the Monpas practiced same tantric Buddhism of Bhutan. Their ethnic dress is a short cloak of coarse wool dyed in red. They have great impact of the other world and their colourful masks of various designs are for getting rid of the evil forces. Later we saw that the same masks were worn for the dances. The dance started with the beats of drums. Beautiful Monpa girls dressed traditionally were very graceful.

Next day, we headed for Tawang. We had to cover 190km and encounter Se La Pass as well as Se La Top (4265m). The road climbed steeply. We saw a number of War Memorials on the way. These reminded us of 1962, when the Chinese army had rolled down this highway. There were many monasteries on the hills. We passed Dirang, a cute small town with apple orchards and an impressive monastery. We reached Se La Pass.

Se La Top is snow country and sight around was spectacular. We found that a kilometer long Paradise Lake had partially thawed. It was blue and lovely. As we reached Nuramang village, the terrain started changing. We had descended a lot since Se La Top. Now were driving through terraced farms and saw yaks grazing. But the mountains behind were loftier and more spectacular. By April end this becomes a valley of flowers as rhododendrons and wild flowers bloom.

As we turned the last hairpin bend, Tawang town came into our sight like a picture on a gigantic easel. At a height of 3,048m, Tawang is majestic and beautiful. The world famous Tawang Monastery was visible at a distance. Its real name is “Tawang Ganden Namgya Lahtse.”

Tawang has some most picturesque shimmering silver lakes, cascading waterfalls and hot springs with healing power. Two rivers, the Tawang Chu and Namjung Chu flowing through deep gorge are beautiful, suitable for river rafting. We talked to yak-shepherds. We met typical giggling tribal girls in ethnic dress. Tawang is one of the most beautiful hill resorts in the Himalayas.

Next day we visited the Tawang Monastery. “Tawang Ganden Namgya Lahtse” or Celestial Paradise, perched atop a ridge and surrounded by thick clouds and perpetual mists, or Tawang Monastery seemed to be suspended from heaven.

About 400 years old monastery is one of the oldest and largest in Asia and can houses 700 monks. Merang Lama Lodre Gyatso, in accordance with wishes of the 5th Dalai Lama, founded it in 1681 AD. Tawang means “Chosen by horse” (Ta-horse, Wang-chosen). Merang Lama was unable to decide on a site to establish the monastery. One day after his prayer; he came out and found his horse missing. He looked for it every where and at last found it standing quietly on a hilltop. Considering this as a sign of divine blessings he constructed the monastery at the very spot. It was amazing that the work force could be marshaled to build such a huge monastery in 1700th century at place like Tawang.

That night we had returned to the monastery. We saw the most incredible sight in our life. “The Celestial Paradise” or the Tawang Monastery or Ganden Namgey Lahtse stood out there in front of us perched on the hill, glowing like a phantasmagoria in blue of the night.

There is a 26ft high statue of Golden Buddha, made of gold. The ceilings and walls have intricate mural paintings. Collection of books and manuscripts is very impressive.

We visited the Anney Gompa or monastery. Strangely, it is located in the dense forest and is run by women only. This 350 year old monastery seems mysterious to all outsiders. But serenity and peace at Anney Gompa is absolutely ideal for meditation and worship.

We left early next morning for Tezpur after an amazing trip.