Leh Off The Beaten Path

Rangdum is an isolated amphitheatre like valley which lies 130 km from Kargil . Enchanting in its beauty, it has two small hamlets and a monastery that date from the 17th century. The villagers are basically agricultural serfs of the monastery, which like many other monasteries is perched on a high hillock. The region is ideal for camping hiking and horse riding. A five-day trek can be undertaken for Henaskut and Lamayuru through the Kanji valley.
An overnight halt is an amazing experience, but the sunrise over the Zanskar range to the north, and the Great Himalayan Range to its south and west is bound to take your breath away! After a quick maggi, its time to move on further. From Rangdum to Padum is another 100 odd kms, through the Pensi La (15,340 ft). On the way, you will spot wild horses, Yaks, Marmots, Bharal, wolves and of course the glaciers!
This journey will take you along the Suru river valley, all the way to the source of the river, near the Pensi La watershed. You can almost reach out and touch the glaciers (well, it does feel that way) on the way up. After crossing Pensi La you meet the astounding Drang Drung Glaciers, the largest glacial system here, and the source of Stod/ Zanskar river. Thereafter the road leaves the mountain and into a flat valley like expanse, which can become dreary in its monotones. Padum is about 110 kms from Rangdum and takes a good 6 hours to reach. On the way you can stop at Sani Gompa ( a nunnery) well known for its sculptures. Padum is a nondescript village-town with towering peaks around it, and a small 2000 odd Buddhist population . More in Part 3 .....

If you have the time, money and love of experiencing the wilderness, Zanskar is not be missed. For photographers , both amateurs and experts, Zanskar region is a dream come true. Take a bus or share a jeep to Kargil and halt at night. I stayed at Hotel D'Jila .Rooms are available for 500-800 INR.
Leave very early the next day for Rangdum. There are many buses that ply from Kargil to Padum.The other option is to hire a jeep by yourself. Not only does it become more comfortable, you can also stop at places and take in your fill of the beauty around you.
The road to Padum (administrative headquarter of Zanskar) was metalled in 1970s. It remains closed between October/ November to April/May, i.e, during the winters due to snow. This route therefore opens in May after the snow on the passes melt. Its is quite bumpy- since most of this route travels over 15000 ft asl, and the snow-melt and landslides play havoc. Rangdum is ONLY 110 kms away from Kargil, but it takes nearly 6-7 hours to reach ! Another advice- CARRY FOOD and WATER.
Rangdum is a huge valley surrounded by small and large glaciers. At night you can be sure of a -4C ! Carrying a good quality sleeping bag is the only survival tool that works since the chilled winds howl away the whole night! You can stay at the J.K.Tourist Home, or the Alpine Hut (for trekkers), and it costs 100 INR for a room. The caretaker can be requested for dinner and hot water (chargeable at 15 INR per bucket) . The Tourist House is powered by Solar energy. However there are no sockets that charge batteries. I used film rolls and carried lots of batteries, and used the digital camera sparingly. There is a beautiful Gompa which shot into spotlight for a very sad reason. 3 Lamas were shot dead by terrorists. But thats is the past. Dont forget your tripod- the views are amazing, but dont trust your fingers , its too cold and windy ! More in Part- II.

Something interesting which i had not heard or seen in the net..one place was the Gurudwara...where it is believed that Guru Nanak ji had visited leh and in one such place a huge stone fell from the hill and hit Guru Nanak ji instead of hurting him the rock melted like wax in places where it touched Guru Nanak Ji ...the stome still has the hollow impression of a human being........have a look at that...it was interesting...

Secondly was a magnetic hill....they believe (i too believe now)that if u place the vehicle within the marked lines the hill will pull it so if u stop the jeep/car..it still moves...we did not believe it while on our way to Alchi..but on return we stopped the jeep at a slant and waited..the jeep slowly moved backword,looks like there is something which pulls the jeep like a magnet..

The Ladakh Society for Traditional Medecine (LSTM) operates the 'Nomad Amchi Clinic' in Changspa, Leh.
This clinic offers the chance for visitors to Ladakh to receive consultation and treatment by a well-respected, English speaking amchi.
Every Friday the clinic offers an introductory talk and discussion for those wishing to learn more about the Tibetan medical system

Half way between Leh and the Mandala Hotel in Fort road there's this beautiful prayer wheel.. at every tme of the day you can see people there going around in circles and praying. However the wheel puts on its best look after dusk, when it's lit up... at this time of the day it looks truly magical... a sight to behold.

I don't know if this little lane has a name, but I always called it baker street because it's full of traditional Bakery shops: small, dark and with real ovens. Bread there is delicious - really the best I have ever had - and cooked right in front of your eyes. Of course you get to eat it hot, so bring along something to fill your bread with: cheese, chocolate or even better a banana. My favourite baker is the first one on the right: fantastic bread for 2 rupess a piece. Definitely a great bargain

In Library road, going downhill it's on the left side, there's a tiny and hidden vegetable market that it's a delight to the eyes and the nose. Wonderful smells and perfumes... and many vegetables that you surely have never seen before. It's great to walk there and stop at the stalls, asking what the things are... mostly you will be told the Ladakhi name - which isn't much of use... but it's still a curious way to spend some time away from the souvenir shops.

FROZON RIVER TREK IN KINDOM OF ZANSKAR

LAKE PANGONG SAFARI

LAKE TSOMORIRI SAFARI

DA HANU THE ARYAN VILLAGE

LADAKH TO SPITI TREK

DOUBLE HUMP BACTERIAN CAMEL SAFARI IN NUBRA VALLEY

WINTER PHOTOGRAPHY IN LADAKH

SNOW LEOPARD WATCH IN WINTER

HUNT FOR THE BLACK NECK CRANE

MOVING WITH THE NOMADES: THE CHANGTHANG PLANES

I am shortly coming with the details on the above exclusive adventure trips