I had visited this temple in the 90's and was mesmerized by the theyyams and the ritualistic dancing to drum beats.That time i couldn't stay back and enjoy since we had a train to catch.This time i stayed overnight, Saw the colorful theyyams and their psychedelic dance performance in the afternoon went again and saw the next performance in the night which went on till late night and again another spirited performance early morning.altogether a very fulfilling experience.
Situated on the banks of the valappatanam river, this is a temple with a difference.
Very secular any body can go and watch the ceremony.The ritual dance is a play between Vishnu and the Nomadic wayward,animal lover, hunter Siva . Siva loves alcohol and non vegetarian food. The offering here is fresh toddy and fish. Every one who visits this temple is invited and given food usually cooked green grams with coconut and tea or rice meal. Well fed, well behaved dogs look after your belongings or roam freely inside the temple And during nights you are supplied mats to sleep in the temple premises.
I love this temple A GOD who practises socialism :)
The Payyambalam beach is a beautiful beach, an ideal place to spend evenings, irrespepctive of seasons. There was a slight drizzle when we were at the beach, but still a great place to spend time.
IF you wish to relax and enjoy nature or watch theyyam - that is one of the best things to do in Kannur- just head to Thottada Beach near Aadi Kadalai Temple. There are few guest houses there. Kannur Becah House in exceptionally good. Just on the beachfront and a on a riverside. Great location and good hospitality.
As we came here from Alleppey (Alappuzha), it was a sensible thing to take the Cannanore Express for this cc. 350km journey which starts from Alleppey (departure station) at 15:00 in the afternoon and arrives at Cannanore at 23:15 in the evening (end station). As the train is not an overnight train, it is cheap and comfortable at the same time. The best class is A/C chair coach which costs about 300-350.- Rs/person.
Leaving Cannanore in the direction of Mysore/Bangalore is not a simple task. As Kerala is separated from Karnataka by the large mountain range called Western Ghats, there are no railway connection between the two states. Bus services are poor, buses are slow, crowded and not efficient.
We took a taxi. As the shortest road was closed down for repairs during our stay, we had to detour via Sultanbatheri. The 300km trip (not more that 180km without the detour) was covered in a little more than 5 and a half hours and cost 4000.- Rs. The detour REALLY was worth the extra money because the mountainous road is very scenic (tea and spice plantations) and we traveled through the Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary where if you're lucky (we were) you'll see wild elephants as well as deers, antelopes, monkeys, etc.
When we asked our host to suggest a good place to have authentic Malabar meal on a banana leaf, we had no malafide intention to have it at his place, but he being so gracious he arranged an amazing meal at home, with cooks imported from the neigborhood and food cooked according to Islamic specifications, which had us completely floored and I still have a lingering taste in my mouth of that meal.
It is just one of the 2 occasions where I have experienced and actually loved having local cuisine in an authentic setting, the other being a meal in coastal Andhra Pradesh in a hut, a place called Bhattiprolu, which was cooked by a fisherman's family.