Khajuraho Off The Beaten Path

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I cycled into the old village of Khajuraho where a young guy popped out of nowhere and started to show me around. He pointed out about the different buildings that relate to different castes (similar to classes back home). Kids were being washed in the street whilst cow dung was being applied to the pavement outside in order to keep mosquito's away. Young girls were picking up fairly fresh cow dung with their hands where it is then dried against a wall in the sun and used for fuel.

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You are not likely to meet a lot of tourists here which is sad because it is only 18 km away from Khajuraho (400.- Rs taxi ride incl. waiting time) and is ideal for templed-out tourists. Some temples on the first day and some astonishing landscape on the second. In the wet season there's a beautiful waterfall here but it is well worth coming here even in the hot season because of the marvelous rock formations that are only visible in their magnificence when water level is low. Locals call the place the Indian Grand Canyon and they are right. You can see at least four different colors of granite rocks at the same time. The surrounding park is full of animals (monkeys, deers, peacocks, etc.) and at the sanctuary you are shown two types of crocodiles (gharial and mugger) living in the Ken river. The compulsory guide will let you know about the breeding program going on in the sanctuary.
I can't remember the entry fee but it was under 200.- Rs for the 2 of us.
There's a small cafe in this idyllic spot and while you drink your cold mineral water you can buy your postcards and there's even a DVD on offer for as little as Rs. 250.-. It introduces the temples of Khajuraho as well as Raneh falls in different seasons (during monsoon time it is quite different).

If you tour the Western Group of Temples clockwise like me, then the first "temple" that you will come across will be the Varaha Temple. This is a 10th century shrine rather than a temple and features a large nine foot high boar which is an incarnation of a Hindu deity. The statue is remarkable for the incredible carvings on its sides. The Varaha Temple is just a stones throw from the famous Lakshmana Temple and seems to get overlooked for this reason.

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Panna National Park, 32 km away One hours drive away from Khajuraho and extending over 543 km, spread along the banks of the River Ken, the park's topography is a magnificent one of deep gorges, tranquil valley and dense teak forests. During the monsoons, the park is a lush green haven with cascading waterfalls. The park's area includes the former shooting reserves of the erstwhile royal state of Panna and Chhattarpur and the jungles today harbour many species of wildlife. The tiger can be glimpsed here, along with other rare species such as the Leopard, Wolf and Gharial. Most likely, it will be here if the Caracal, a vanishing cousin of the extinct Cheetah, is ever sighted. Herds of Blue Bulls, Chinkaras and Sambars are a common sight. The Wild Boar, the Sloth Bear, the Cheetal, the Chowsingha, the Indian Fox, the Porcupine, and a host of lesser fauna are also seen. A separate sanctuary for Gharial has been set up. The park can probably boast of the highest density of the Paradise Fly-Catchers. This rich avian and faunal life combined with its picturesque scenery make a visit to the Park a memorable one.

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Raneh water Falls is about 20 KM from Khajuraho North East A beautiful picnic spot on the river Ken.
Best to see Sunrice or Sunset time with creazy red rocks.
Also there Ken Ghariyal Sanctuary if you have time can spend full day there.
Best time to See Oct to March

Open Sunrice to Sunset
Entrance Fee Rs 105 Camera Rs 40 Video Rs 150 Car Entrance Fee Rs 150 Guide Charge Rs 25

Meet Rajendra Singh Chauhan... This Adivasi tribesman is a 3rd generation wood carver who now lives in the old village of Khajuraho... The Adivasi are people who usually live in remote areas such as thick jungle regions, not easily accessible... I believe they are descended from the original inhabitants of India, before the Indo-Aryan invasions, and even prior to Dravidian times... Their belief systems combine a kind of very old shamanistic animistic formula with the later incursion of Vedic Hindu deities and beliefs brought in by the Indo-Aryan group...

The Adivasi tribesman had this poster of the goddess Durga in his house.

Durga can be equated with the famous Hindu goddess Kali. From what I have come to understand, the various manifestations of this goddess relate directly to the phases of martial conquest that have taken place in the region throughout the millenia wherein the original indigenous tribes of India were later invaded by the Dravidians and still later again by the Indo-Aryans... This poster, with its incredibly vivid colors and surreal imagery, was the centerpiece of the Adivasi tribesman's home decor...

It's a large park, and they sell it as a 'safari experience'. The only dangerous and 'wild' animal i've seen was this 'big bird'. Maybe wrong time of the year or just bad luck, but i think it's not worth while visiting. Only if you have nothing else to do (??) and some time left it can be somthing else, then all day long visiting temples. For sure you cannot compare this to an african safari...