Khajuraho Things to Do

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The Kandariya Mahadeva Temple is in the Western Group of Temples and is arguably the most impressive temple in Khajuraho. It is also the largest temple measuring almost 110 feet by 60 feet. It is 117 feet high and stands on a high terrace. It is said to "represent the pinnacle of North Indian temple art and architecture".

The temple is covered in 800+ sculptures. The sculptures depict gods, warriors, beasts, dancers and musicians, and erotic scenes. The first tier of the exterior has carvings of godesses and processional friezes.

The temple is curvilinear with a porch, mandapa, side aisles, a vestibule, sanctum, and circumambulatory. The portico has seat slabs with sloping backs similar to the ones in Nandi Temple (also a nice place to reflect or take a break from trying to see all the sculptures). Window openings are in the hall and circumambulatory.

The main Shikhara (spire) is 98 feet tall. 84 other spires rise towards it creating an impression of a mountain range. It is said that the mountain range is Shiva's home, Mount Kailasa.

The door frame to the inner sanctum is richly carved but the sanctum itself is plain and dark, representing a womb. Inside is a linga, the sacred symbol of Shiva. (In all Shiva temples, the linga is the main object of worship.)

There are large erotic panels on the northern and southern exterior walls. The three theories of the sculptures are: to serve as a love manual, to celebrate the marriage of Shiva and Parvati, or to express an exuberant celebration of life and creation.

The last thing of note in this temple are the Apsaras. Apsaras are nymphs with sensuous grace and charm and you will see hundreds of carvings of them in Khajuraho. They are shown as attendants of the deities, dancers, or just engaged in normal everyday activities. Often Apsaras are carved as support bracket figures as they are in this temple. Be sure to look for them.

Although it is smaller in size, the Vishwanath Temple is similar to the Kandariya Mahadeva Temple in both plan and design. It is located in the Western Group of Temples.

Vishwanath is a Shiva temple with a linga (the sacred symbol of Shiva) inside the sanctum. The temple is a Quincunx - "geometric pattern consisting of five points, four of them forming a square or rectangle and a fifth at its center" - with a shrine at each of the four corners. However, only two of the shrines - one at the north-eastern corner and one at the south-western corner - have survived.

The interior has a porch, a pillared outer hall, vstibule, sanctum, and a circumambulatory around the sanctum. Other similarities between the Vishwanath and Kandariya Mahadeva Temples include the ceilings and the window features, which indicates that the two temples were built during the same time period.

However, it is the sculputres of women that are particularly notable on this temple. Some are shown playing music, writing letters, with babies, and displaying provacative poses. Highlights of the Vishwanath Temple include the apsaras (damsels) in the aisles. The damsels are in a tribhanga (three curve) posture, in three dimensions. This shows their fully developed bosom and curved backs freely and gracefully.

On the door frame of the sanctum are Mithunas. The exterior of the temple has 3 bands of sculptures.

This small museum is situated opposite Shiv Sagar, just down the road from Hotel Lakeside, and at 5INR entry, it's well worth a visit. It contains a selection of lovely carvings from the area. No photography allowed inside.

This lake is situated next to the old village of Khajuraho, and as such is a little off the beaten track, or would be were it not for the Brahma temple next to it. It is labelled as Narora in the LP guide, but seems to also be known as Khajur Sagar and Ninora Taal.

This is the main lake in town, situated on the main road and right next to the Western Group of Temples. Women carry out their washing on the ghats, and people can be seen bathing in the water early in the morning.

Watching the sunset over the lake can be a sublimely peaceful experience.

This photo was taken very early in the morning, as a lone woman was walking into town with her tiffin can.

There is another group of three temples in Khajuraho, situatued between 1 and 2.5 km south of the Jain Enclosure. Two are in ruins, and the other is one of the younger of the temples. I didn't actually visit these, as we were feeling slightly unwell, and didn't think the descriptions warranted such a walk. I do hope to go back one day and fill in the gaps however!

The statue of Hanuman in this shrine is almost 2.5m high, and because of the orange paint, and the surrounding structure you could be forgive for thinking the whole thing is quite modern. However, the pedestal is engraved with an inscription relating to the date 922AD, which makes it the oldest dateable inscription in Khajuraho.

The Brahma Temple is one of the oldest in Khajuraho, dating from around 900AD, and has a sandstone structure topped with a granite sikhara (spire). It has been suggested that it has been incorrectly named, and its original attribution may be confused due to the Shiva lingam in the sanctum, the image of Vishnu carved on the lintel above the sanctum doorway!

It is a small, squat structure consisting only of a sanctum with no halls, and the roof, instead of being the characteristic conical spire (sikhara) has a pyramidal shape. The stone lattice windows project a little way from the walls, which are unadorned with the usual complicated decorations. It sits next to Narora Sagar (lake), in what is a very peaceful setting.