MISCELLANEOUS, Mumbai

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I remember helping my mother to fold and pack the weekly laundry in whicker baskets. Only large items like bedlinen, towels, shirts and tableclothes that had to be starched were sent away - in fact collected and taken to a large building we knew as the Laundry. Back they came a week later.
I never understood how the right things came back to us because I thought the Laundry would like a big swimming pool where our things would be mixed with everybody elses.
Here at the Ghats must be the biggest open air laundry in the world. I'd seen clothes being washed in streams and fountains in parts of rural Europe but never anything on this scale. Some people bring their own clothes and linens to be washed, others have it collected and it is carried in baskets of the heads of the delivery men.
Clothes and linens are marked to identify the owners - just as I eventually learned were ours .. And there was no large swimming pool but dozens and dozens of buckets, troughs, vats and make- shift containers for washing, rinsing and "Dollying". At least I guessed the great vats of vivid blue water to be a kind of Dolly Blue. The work looked hard, the men - the "dhobis" rarely paused, sometimes standing in the vats and cooling their aching hands and limbs.
I remember the smell of "Washing Day" and steam railways in the few minutes as I stood watching the hard work going on in front of me, with people constantly coming and going, fetching and collecting their belongings from the ghats. Some arrived by train at the adjacent station on the way from work.
But I know now why visitors to India comment on how beautifully clean the clothes worn in that hot and dusty atmosphere are - and where the allergic skin condition known as "dhobi itch" comes from.
I did not discover who owns the ghats - whether it is a company employing the men or the independent activity of the men who buy or rent space there.Nor do I know approximately how much a family would pay for their weekly wash.

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Because we were early the streets were not as crowded as they were later in the day, nor the following day when we visited the market just near Mahatma Ghandi Road. In fact the crowds there overwhemed me a bit.
We did not have long to wander on our own but long enough.
I remember the sight of the street dwellers and the beggars. One little girl who looked no more than 11 or twelve years old, carrying a baby in her arms - maybe 6 months old - followed us for a while. She constantly rubbed her tummy, and that of the infant, in a circular motion. Then she put two fingets in her moth with a jabbing action before holding out her hand, rapidly clenching then opening it,
It was a superb piece of mime, heartbreaking to a first time visitor to Mumbai. As I stood there wondering what to do - remembering the "warnings" we had received from old hands about begging ploys - a smartly dressed Indian woman told me, very firmly, not to give anything, the mother of both children was hiding round the corner she said.
These are the kind of dilemmas of conscience faced on first travelling in a "third world".I know that I could easily have handed that child enough in a few notes to feed a family for a several days. As a part of the outgoings on a trip of this kind it would for me have been a drop in the ocean - I wish I had ignored the warnings and the command - yet the rational of the Indian woman was there is work to be done, begging is not the way forward for these people.
I still don't know.

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On the fringes of what was once the walled Fort of Mumbai, stands the High Court, another hauntingly beautiful (some say haunted!) structure, in brooding black stone. Opposite it lies the Oval Maidan, formerly a large Bowling Green where English memsahibs came to "take in the air." Today, it is an important lung in a congested city, where aspiring young cricketers practice their paces under the watchful eye of the High Court and the Mumbai University.
just Near by to churchaget Railway staion .

Cannot speak too highly of Reality Tours. We did 2 tours with them - one walking through Dharavi and another "local" tour using public transport. Both were expremely interesting. Krishna and Ganesh were our excellent guides and nothing was too much trouble for them - they really went the extra mile to ensure that we enjoyed the tours. When we returned to the community centre Chris was also extremely helpful - offering general advice on visiting Mumbai. Please support these young men in their very worthy aims.

Most people coming to Mumbai only stay in the city visiting the Gateway, Elephanta, etc. But fully exploring Mumbai means more than stopping in at Leopold's for a meal so I recommend hopping on a train and visiting the suburbs!

The market area at Lokhandwala is one of my favorite places to shop and wander... The market is really a stretch of about 6 longish blocks with stores and stalls lining both sides of the street. There are so many stores: clothes stores (both Indian and Western wear, even some designer wear), shoes, accessories (jewelry, purses, etc.), books/mags, music/dvds, cards/gifts, decorative household items, and even a couple of Rs 99 stores (similar to a dollar store). I recommend peeking in a jewelry store to see some of the elaborate Indian necklaces, etc. And shoes - there are a ton of shoes here - all price ranges! In between some of the stores and also in front of some are small stalls or tables that sell very inexpensive clothes - lots of children's clothing (starting at Rs 50 - $1) and also adult clothing as well. Most pants and tops cost around Rs 150+ ($3). Some good deals to be had but many stores don't open until 11 a.m.

Recommended place to eat: I have 2 favorites in Lokhandwala - High Point has inside A/C seating and outside seating. I love the outside seating because the area is great for people watching. Food is all Indian veg and my recommendations are puri bhaji and a cold coffee! (Total about RS 100-125, $2-2.50) I also recommend having a chicken roll also known as a chicken frankie at Breadkraft. This was my first "street" food in Mumbai and is definitely still one of my favorites, although the first time it was so spicy for me! It's a take away or stand there and eat only food! A chicken frankie is not a frankie or hot dog at all. Made street side, this frankie is a delicious recipe of schezuan sauce and masala chicken filled in Egg-roti. The serving is huge - very filling and is priced at Rs 30/60 cents. Go to Eden Cake Shop - a couple of doors down from Breadkraft for dessert. McDonald's and Dominos are also located here as well as a few other restaurants.

While you're in the area, I recommend taking a walk or short rickshaw ride to Infinity Mall where the best bookstore in Mumbai is located. Landmark has a huge selection of books, dvds, cds, games, gifts, stationary, toys, etc., etc. This is no doubt my favorite store in Mumbai. The mall is not huge but there's a few clothing stores (including the anchor department store, Westside), an electronics store (Vijay Sales), Food Bazaar grocery, a great accessory store for costume jewelry, a food court, and a multiplex theater (usually always have an American movie or two playing).

Train Tip: These trains are wildly crowded during rush hour and if possible, I recommend avoiding them at those times. Tickets must be purchased before you board the train. Women should NEVER go in the men's compartments - even with another man. There are separate men's and women's compartments - use them!

If you make a day of visiting the suburbs, along with Lokhandwala, you should visit Vile Parle East (station area), Andheri West (station area), and Juhu. See my other tips for additional information.

Take the train from CST to Andheri West. If you can, catch the "fast"(express) train. From the station take a rickshaw to Lokhandwala Market Road.

Most people coming to Mumbai only stay in the city visiting the Gateway, Elephanta, etc. But fully exploring Mumbai means more than stopping in at Leopold's for a meal so I recommend hopping on a train and visiting the suburbs!

The market area at Andheri West is almost always extremely crowded but it is that crazy activity that draws me there! It is literally wall to wall people during rush area. In the evening especially, you will find commuters lined up at one of the many, many street food stalls waiting for their pani puri or wada pavs before heading home.

There are stores along the main road - SV Road - across from the station and stalls lining the sidewalks. Right against the station exit is the entrance to the actual market - fairly small alleys with stalls lining both sides. This is one of "the" places for cheap, cheap stuff. Clothes - t-shirts, baby/children's clothes, etc. start at less than $1. Be aware that the quality is not always the best so you need to check. "Junk"/costume jewelry earrings start at around 20 cents - and bangles are very reasonable. The immediate area around the station does not sell fruits and vegetables. For that, you'll need to walk a few blocks, where you'll also find a good homeopathic medicine shop.

Another thing you will find at this market is a ton of very, very inexpensive, pirated software, video games, and dvds/movies. You literally can find anything you want including full operating systems for a few bucks. I'm not condoning buying or selling, just reporting!! (I actually wonder why/how the cops have not cracked down on this.)

Recommended place to eat: Merwan's Bakery is located just outside the station on SV Road. They have a huge assortment of cakes and cookies and you must try the delicious mawa cakes (really like small un-iced cupcakes). But the star of Merwan's is the pattice! I have been known to make a special trip to the station just to get some chicken pattice!! Other places to eat: McDonald's across from station exit, street food stalls.

Train Tip: These trains are wildly crowded during rush hour and if possible, I recommend avoiding them at those times. Tickets must be purchased before you board the train. Women should NEVER go in the men's compartments - even with another man. There are separate men's and women's compartments - use them!

If you make a day of visiting the suburbs, along with Andheri West, you should visit Vile Parle East (station area), Lokhandwala, and Juhu. See my other tips for additional information.

Most people coming to Mumbai only stay in the city visiting the Gateway, Elephanta, etc. But fully exploring Mumbai means more than stopping in at Leopold's for a meal so I recommend hopping on a train and visiting the suburbs!

The market area at Vile Parle East is a large maze of roads around the train station. There are dozens and dozens of stores selling household items, clothing, jewelry, etc. There are also small stalls selling everything from shoes to clocks. And of course, tables full of fruits and vegetables. This is a "local" market - colorful and busy, especially late afternoon/early evening with everyone coming to buy their produce for dinner. You are likely to run into cows and goats, and the people are nice, not agressive. It's one of my favorite markets.

Shop for clothes - everything from saris to kurtas, jewelry (especially inexpensive bangles, earrings, and elaborate necklaces), and whatever fruit is in season (custard apples, mangos, jackfruit, etc.)!

Recommended places to eat: Shiv Sagar (good veg food), Gajalee's (highly recommended for sea food - crabs, and their specialty, Bombay Duck - it's fish), street stalls for Bombay's famous Wada Pav and grilled veg sandwiches!

Recommended hotel: There is a Quality Inn Parle International Hotel located at one end of the market. It is a nice hotel (good breakfast buffet) and very convenient to the airports, especially the domestic airport.

Train Tip: These trains are wildly crowded during rush hour and if possible, I recommend avoiding them at those times. Tickets must be purchased before you board the train. Women should NEVER go in the men's compartments - even with another man. There are separate men's and women's compartments - use them!

If you make a day of visiting the suburbs, along with Vile Parle East, you should visit Andheri West (station area), Lokhandwala, and Juhu. See my other tips for additional information.

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The Nariman House, renamed as Chabad House (Beit Chabad), is a landmark in the posh Colaba area in Mumbai. This five-story building was home to a Chabad house, a Jewish outreach center run by Chabad Lubavich. They have acquired the building during 2006. The center had an educational center, a synagogue, offered drug prevention services, and a hostel to tourists from Israel. The building was attacked during the November 2008 Mumbai attacks and six of its occupants, including Rabbi Graviel Noach Holtzberg, his wife, Rivka (who was five months pregnant) and some tourists were killed. The Rabbi’s two year old son Moshe was rescued by his Indian nanny, Sandra Samuel and was later taken to Israel.
After the November 2008 Mumbai attacks, The Municipal Corporation Of Mumbai declared the building unsafe due to extensive damage sustained during the terrorist attack. The building was left in a bad shape and posed the danger of crumbling down.
However, extensive repair and renovation works have been undertaken and likely to be restored very soon. The Chabad officials said they were certain the Mumbai house would soon be reopened. Many young Chabad couples from all around the world offered to come to Mumbai to take over as Rabbis here. Chabad officials have appointed Rivka's parents, Rabbi Shimon and Yehudit Rosenberg, to take over running of the Chabad House for the time being. Now Holtzberg’s brother is appointed as the Rabbi of Chabad House in Mumbai.
Now, the entry to this building is prohibited for security reasons. The building is under renovation and guarded heavily.