Agra Off The Beaten Path

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The third Mughal Emperor Akbar the Great (1542 – 1605), himself commenced its construction in around 1600, according to Tartary tradition to commence the construction of one's tomb during one's lifetime. Akbar himself planned his own tomb and selected a suitable site for it, after his death, Akbar's son Jahangir completed the construction in 1605-1613.

It is located on National Highway from Agra to Mathura NH2 ( Calcutta -Delhi Highway) about 8kms from The Tajmahal.

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When you are that type of traveler who can sacrifice a little comfort for experience, then venture out to one of the villages. My most unforgettable moments happened here. I spent one breezy afternoon under the shade of a tree, surrounded by elderly and kids alike, all eager to share their stories. I couldn't get enough of watching the ladies prepare food. They toss dough between hands so fast, one would lose count! Then there was this baby I held in my arms, his big eyes outlined with black henna (?). The boys played cricket at daytime which reminded me of my own childhood games. To cap things, I witnessed an engagement party for 2 local villagers.

P.S. You could bring extra bottled water and mosquito repellent. Mosquitoes there are GIANTS!

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I arrived in Agra on a Friday afternoon in late February 2009 only to find out that the Taj Mahal was closed on Fridays. Thus, I began my sightseeing tour by first visiting the mausoleums on the opposite bank of the River Yamuna, namely, Chini-ka-Rauza and Itimad-ud-Daulah, and then ended the day by watching sunset from the viewing point of the Taj Mahal across the River Yamuna. It was one of my last days in India and this moment turned out to be the most unforgettable. Because it was the dry season in late winter, the giant River Yamuna was reduced to a small stream and its riverbed was mostly dry, which allowed the visitors to descend into the riverbed and to walk over fine white sand nearly all the way to the majestic white monument. Watching the incredible Taj Mahal and its changing hues as the sun receded in the sky, with only a handful of others and a few animals, was simply magical. Naturally I could not stop gazing at the Taj and taking many photos in the process, some of which are attached while others I've posted in the travelogue: "Unforgettable Sunset by the Taj Mahal". This is a MUST when visiting Agra, preferably on the evening before the scheduled visit to the Taj Mahal.

Yes! This is the real India. Just looking at rural India will give you an insight into primordial times. It also brings you near to nature and if you are lucky enough you can see a dancing Peacock and Cobra in wild. Agra should be viewed patiently for more you look at it more you will find it amazing and incredible that is there are old markets (Bazaars) where things are pretty cheap and try your hands at some Indian spices as well. You will be amazed at their aromatic smell and taste and also healing qualities.

Named after its founder, the Delhi Sultan Sikandar Lodi, Sikandra lies about 8km north west of Agra, on the road to Delhi. Originally it was a separate village, used by emperors as a hunting base, but modern urban expansion turned it into a mere suburb of Agra. The village is best known for the magnificent tomb of the Mughal Emperor Akbar the Great. It was built between 1605 and 1614 AD and is considered one of the most beautiful and unique mausoleums in the Indian subcontinent. It is a must-see when visiting Agra.

For more, check out my Sikandra page.

About an hour west of Agra (or 40 km away) lies Fatehpur Sikri, the ephemeral capital of the Mughal Empire. It was built in 1571 by Emperor Akbar at the location where a revered Sufi mystic lived. It served as the capital of the empire until 1585, when it became evident that water shortage in the area could not sustain a growing capital of an empire, and the city was thus swiftly abandoned and the capital moved to Lahore. This quick evacuation has left us with a 16th century architectural ensemble frozen in time and devoid of subsequent modifications, one whose importance has earned it a place among the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The city consists of a magnificent grand mosque and an exquisite imperial palace complex, surrounded by numerous lesser structures, ranging from ramparts and caravanserais to palaces and mausoleums. While most of the architecture of the city is typically Mughal, the imperial palace complex exhibits a unique blend of Hindu, Jain and Islamic styles. Fatehpur Sikri makes an excellent day trip from Agra, or a stop along the drive to Jaipur.

For more on this ghost city, check out the separate page dedicated to Fatehpur Sikri.

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The main road from Agra to Dehli take you through the countryside where shepherds walk along the road. Many domestic animals cross the street and slow vehicles are driving in the middle of the road. The driver must be on his guard.

If you are going to be in Agra- it is really worthwhile going to visit Fatehpur Sikri
It has a fascinating history, and wonderful architecture that has been well preserved.
There is a Sufi Shrine there which has the most marvellous marble lattice work.

This place is only 37 km from Agra by road, and can easily be combined with a visit to Agra.
Highly recommended. We had a car and driver- it took us about 30mins to get to Fatehpur Sikri from Agra
Taxi's can be hired from Agra, and there is also a bus (which might take longer)

Beware of fake guides who will try and convince you that you need their services. There are genuine guides available. Insist on seeing credentials.