Varanasi Warnings Or Dangers

Arriving in Varanasi carrying a rucksack is to advertise yourself as fresh meat. Sadly there isn't much you can do about it, and the rickshaw wallahs and hotel touts will follow you everywhere, but there are a couple of things you can do to minimise it.

Don't give the name of the hotel you want to a rickshaw driver - they will try to tell you that they know a better one, or that it's closed, etc etc. Instead, give them a street name, or better yet (if you're staying next to the river), the name of a ghat. They won't be able to drive you the whole way (as motorised vehicles aren't allowed on the ghats), but they'll drop you as close as possible. We got dropped off at the roundabout just back from Dasaswamedh Ghat, then walked along the river to find a hotel.

If you get followed by touts (we certainly did), I think the best bet is to just say no, firmly, once, and then don't get drawn into any further argument, as they seem to take that to mean that they still might get your custom (and find it quite amusing into the bargain). Bear in mind that if you do follow a tout to his hotel, you'll be paying for his commission on top of the normal room price.

Your hotel will almost certainly warn you about this, but make sure you keep all doors and windows closed whenever you are out of your room, and probably even if you're there. The monkeys of Varanasi have gained a reputation as vandals and theives, and our hotel (and probably most of the others) had wire mesh over all the roof terrace areas to prevent them from getting into the corridors. We spotted several hanging around on the balconies and lintels over windows near to our room, and my partner, who had visited Varanasi two years before, still likes to tell the tale of monkeys getting into his room and stealing his shorts and toilet paper!

Varanasi is one of the most interesting cities in India. It is also the most confronting. Because of the diversity in cultures, religions and spiritual conceptions regarding death and dying.......I feel that if you should take a child with you on a visit to Varanasi- it is of the utmost importance that you prepare them for this city. This can perhaps be done by explaining that the Hindu religion is different in its beliefs (regarding cremations) and reincarnation. I know that this may be a difficult concept for a child to grasp. It also, of course, depends upon the age of the child.
However you do it- it has to be done. It is almost impossible to avoid the pervasive atmosphere of dying, death and cremation here. Walking along the ghats- you will see the funeral pyres. You will also smell them.
In the alleyways, amongst the shopping stalls, bearers will be hurrying along every few minutes, carrying a deceased relative to the cremation ghats.
Because all Hindus believe that to die in Varanasi brings release from the cycle of death and re-birth (moksha)- many old sick people come here with the hope of passing on in Varanasi. One can see them lying on the ghats, seemingly oblivious to every other thought.
Having said this- IF a child is prepared for what they might see, smell or hear, and is made aware that death need not be feared, Varanasi can offer a wonderfully enriching and cultural experience to young and old alike.

If you should have to walk along the ghats atnight, please take care. There is no lighting, and it is very dark. The paths and walkways are uneven, and its very possiblethat you could trip and fall. Also, there are certain dodgy types that hang out in these dark corners-be alert.
And ALWAYS carry a small torch. It is an invaluable item for Varanasi at night.

Violent crime is rare, but do be careful in the lanes after dark. Carry a torch; power outages are extremely common, and the alleys are hard enough to navigate in daylight let alone in pitch dark, with broken paving stones and cows common.

Women need to dress conservatively, and to be careful. Even taking precautions expect to have the odd local young man try to quickly grope you, and run away. Respond agressively and loudly to try to discourage this behavior as much as possible.

Rickshaw/taxi scams are a norm in Varanasi, and the driver will inevitably tell you that the hotel that you wish to go to has burned down, is flooded or closed. Don't believe him. Drivers receive commission from hotels for bringing in new guests, and this is one way to trick newcomers to going to these places. Don't get annoyed, but see the exchange as playful banter and part of 'the Varanasi experience'. However, if the driver continuously refuses to follow your instructions, threaten to get out of the rickshaw. If after all this you still end up to a different place, just refuse to pay until you arrive at your hotel. The same procedure will need to be followed when sight seeing, as drivers will inevitably try to take you to handicraft stores from which they receive commission.

Do not stay at the YMCA - Radiant Hotel. It is a complete and total hotel ripoff. The rooms are horrible, the airconditioners are from the Jurassic Age. The bathrooms are horrible, if you wash it down, the water enters the bedrooms. A very horrible experience here.

The city of Varanasi is made up of thousands of narrow, dark alleys. There are maximum chances of getting lost/confused. So just be a bit cautious. If you find yourself lost, just ask somebody about the right way instead of getting more and more confused.

The steps down to the ghats are connected via a myriad of tiny streets and passageways that are known as Gali's. These are where local people live, eat, work and shop and as they're extremely small and twisty, it's very easy to get lost. I got easily lost when I was trying to make my way from the ghats to the Vishwanath Temple. At least the alleyways are too narrow for traffic but you may encounter motorbikes. Make sure you don't get lost as it's not a nice feeling! If you do get lost, try and head back to the ghats and start again plus it may be helpful to take a compass.