We found it when we were driving by on our way east from Salatiga via Trowulan and Trawas. Could have gone there sooner, but then... there are so many temples in the region. Candi Jawi sure is one of the most beautiful, having practically been rebuilt from its ruins. A first attempt to restoration was made from 1938 to 1941, but left unfinished because not enough evidence remained to reconstruct the middle part with certainty. Later, from 1974 to 1979, the East Java Archeological Authority completed the restoration - which begs the question what new knowledge they had on Candi Jawi's architecture. The following is an adaptation of the information the authority provides in Indonesian on panels at the site.
Scholars agree that Candi Jawi was built during the reign of Kertanegara, the last king of the Singosari dynasty, i.e. between AD 1268 and 1292. This is based on references in the Negarakertagama chronicles to Candi Jajawa and Candi Jawa-Jawa. But they differ as to why the king had the temple built.
One theory is that it served for religious rituals. Supporting this theory are the reliefs on the base, around which a pradaksina or clockwise procession would be held as is still customary at Borobudur temple. But against it is the fact that Candi Jawi faces away from Penanggungan mountain, on which the gods were believed to dwell.
The other theory holds that the temple served to store the king's ashes after his demise and elevation to the status of a god (pendharmaan). The anomaly of it turning its back on the gods would then be resolved, but another problem arises. According to the chronicles Singosari temple also was built in commemoration of king Kertanegara.
Candi Jawi has both Hindu and Buddhist characteristics, indeed the two religions were amalgamated in the period it was built. The records even refer to the elevated king Kertanegara as Sri Siwa Budha and Batara Siwa Budha. Several Shivaist statues have been recoverd on the site, Nadiswara, Durga, Brahma, Ganesa, Nandi and fragments of Ardanari, but are kept elsewhere in museums.
Candi Jawi predates by almost a century the dated temple at Penataran, which looks like a miniature copy. It has a rectangular base and is almost 25 m high. The base is decorated with shallow reliefs representing a tale that has been impossible to ascertain, many parts of which are not recognizable any more. But one panel shows a temple with tiered roof, Jawi temple itself according to archaeologist Stutterheim.
The main body of Jawi temple has several rectangular niches on the outside with Kala heads on top and a rectangular inner room. We stepped inside and saw an effigy of Batara Surya, the sun god, on the roof's capstone.
The roof consists of three parts, the main tiered part, a square part on top of this and a dagodha-shaped pillar to crown all.
It is interesting that the base was built out of black andesit, whereas the top was constructed of white stone. The explanation is that in the year Saka 1253 (AD 1331) Candi Jawi was struck by lightning - as told in Negarakertagama. That event caused the upper part of the temple to collapse, and destroyed an aksobhya statue with high crown (one of the five meditating Buddha's). The damage was repaired the following year, proof of which is a stone carrying an inscription of the year Saka 1254, but the Buddist statue has not been recovered.
Behind Jawi temple lie ruins of a brick gate (perhaps not unlike Wringin Lawang gate in Trowulan), which may be all that remains of a brick wall surrounding the compound. Evidence has been found of more structures that once stood in the compound.
- Historical Travel
I was lucky enough to go Candi Singosari. This temple is also known as Ken Dedes Temple which was founded in honour to King Kertanegara, the last king of Singosari dynasty who died in 1292 AD. It was erected in 1300 AD.
The nice about this temple is that its situated amongst the house in Singosari district just norh of Malang and down the road from the temple is a old swimming pool known as Ken Dedes.
This is another beautiful temple that I had the opportunity to visit when I went to Trawas. Its situated in the Prigen district in Malang Regency.
I just loved the mountain scenary in the backgroud of the temple. There was a man working here and he was kind enough to let us in tell us all about the temple. Aparently the temple was restored as the roof was colapsing. Just like Candi Singosari this is also situated amongst the houses. There is just one entrance to the top of the temple as its surrounded by water. The ancient extrance to the temple still remains further to back of the exntrance to Candi JAwi.
This is the most beautiful street in Malang I have to say. I just love all the palm trees in the middle of the road and the beautiful Dutch homes there. Driving around in Malang I never would have expected to drive through a street this beautiful. The Army Museum is also located in Ijen boulevard with its old weapons that was used in the independence war.
Waterfall COBAN RONDO - Songgorito
About 3 km West of Batu is the excellent holiday resort Songgorito. Here you'll find the well-known hot springs. The road mounts the Gunung Panderman and is notorious for its hairpin bends. Find the small well-covered cleft with lusty vegetation where you can enjoy some breath-taking views. Have a picnic and go for a hike up to the 60 metres high Waterfall Cuban Rondo. It's wonderfully cool!
- Road Trip
- Jungle and Rain Forest
- Mountain Climbing
Coban Pelangi waterfall
One of many waterfalls there must be around Semeru mountain. This one is easily accessed from the road to Ngadas and Bromo. Coban is the local word for waterfall and Pelangi means rainbow. However, when we went there the light must have been not right, we saw no rainbow. We suppose the sun must shine from the right direction into the ravine.
From the parking a 1.5 km footpath leads down across the river and then uphill to the foot of the 30 m fall. Unfortunately the water falls among big rocks, no chance to take a dip.
Address: Gubukklakah village, Poncokusumo district.
Directions: From Malang take the road east to Bromo, via Tumpang and Gubukklakah (see tip The Back Door to Bromo). On leaving Gubukklakah you pass a porch. At 2 km from the porch is a small parking with the entrance gate to Coban Pelangi.
- Road Trip
- Hiking and Walking
- National/State Park
Candi Kidal or Kidal temple is mentioned in the Negarakrtagama chronicles as the burying place of the second king of Singasari, Anusapati, who reigned from 1227 to 1248 AD. Therefore the temple precedes the Majapahit era. After his death king Anusapati was considered an incarnation of Siwa, and a statue of his as Siwa once stood in the temple. However that statue has been lost.
The temple walls are decorated with medaillons featuring flowers and vines. The Kala head over the entrance is particularly fine.
But the most interesting aspect are the three Garuda figures on three sides of the base. They refer to the Garudeya story from the Adiparwa book. The story tells of the rivalry between the two wives of a certain Kasyapa, whose names were Kadru and Winata. Kadru was mother of several snakes, whereas the son of Winata is Garuda. Unce upon a time the two mothers debated whether the color of the horse Uccaihsrawa was black or white. (Who was that horse is another story.).
In the heat of the debate they agreed that whoever would be proven wrong, would be the slave of the other. The snakes knew that their mother, Kadru, was mistaken and told her so. She then asked them to use their venom to change the color of the horse. They succeeded in doing so and Winata became the slave of Kadru.
Garuda then fought the snakes in order to reverse the injustice done to his mother. His half-brothers promised to free Winata if Garuda would succeed in stealing holy amrtha water from the gods, the drinking of which makes immortal. Garuda successfully obtained the amrtha, but only after having agreed to become the mount of god Visnu. Indeed Visnu is almost exclusively depicted as riding on Garuda. And eventually the gods deceived the snakes and got their water back.
The significance of the story? The coat of arms of the Republic of Indonesia features a Garuda bird because the founder of the republic, Ir Soekarno, saw in Garuda's quest a symbol of his struggle for freedom of his beloved motherland from the devious snakes (i.e. the Dutch colonizers).
At the south side of Kidal temple we see Garuda wrestling with his halfbrothers, the snakes.
Next, on the east or back side, he is carrying the pot with amrtha on his head.
And on the north side we see Garuda with his beloved mother Winata.
- Museum Visits
- Arts and Culture
Candi Badut or Badut temple is a typical albeit simple example of a Shivaist temple as explained in the Penataran Museum. This is clear from the entrance facing west, the statue of goddess Durga Mahesa-suramardhini in the north wall, and the lingga-yoni in the interior. The lingga and yoni are an abstract representation of Shiva and his wife Parvati. The recess in the south wall must have contained a statue of Agastya (Shiva as teacher), the recess in the east wall a statue of Ganesha, and the small recesses on both sides of the entrance statues of the guards Mahakala and Nandiswara. Unfortunately all these statues are missing.
The base is bare without decoration, but the outer walls of the temple body are decorated with flower designs. Of interest are reliefs on both sides of the stairs representing kinarakinari, i.e. creatures with a bird body and human head that play music in heaven.
Candi Badut is thought to have been built sometime between the eighth and tenth centuries A.D. It was rediscovered only in 1921, when it was only a heap of stone. Restoration efforts have been made in 1925 through 1927 and later in 1992-1993. Still the temple lacks its roof.
Address: Gasek hamlet, Karang Besuki village, Sukun district, Malang town.
Directions: Candi Badut lies within the precincts of Malang town. Take Jalan Bondowoso and Jalan Tidar to the west and follow the signs.
Candi Singosari or Singosari temple was discovered in 1803, when like of many others no more remained than a heap of stone. Its present shape is the result of restoration work in 1934 through 1937.
The design of Singosari temple is extraordinary, because it consists of two storeys on a low pedestal. The lower storey contains an inner chamber, the upper storey not. Actually the temple was never finished, only the top is decorated.
An edict from 1351 AD states that Singosari temple was built by order of a council of seven kings in honour of the Shivaist high priest and prime minister by name of Pu Raganatha or Sang Ramapati, who died with the last king of Singhasari, Kertanegara, as a result of a sudden attack of the king of Kadiri. It is thought that king Kertanegara and his ministers were worshipping on the very spot of Singosari temple when their rivals from Kadiri attacked them. Chairman of the council was Tribhuvana, third king of Majapahit. This indicates clearly that the Majapahit dynasty saw itself as the successor of Singhasari, not of Kadiri.
That Tribhuvana also stood in the Shivaist tradition is clear from the layout of the temple. Statues of Mahakala and Nandiswara once guarded the entrance, statues of the goddess Durga and of Ganesha stood in the recesses on the sides. All these but were taken to the Netherlands and are now in the Leiden Museum. The only statue remaining is that of Agastya (Shiva as teacher), probably because it was too damaged to be of interest to the colonial power.
A number of other more or less damaged statues are standing aside in the temple grounds, among these one of Vishnu with the attributes of Shiva and one of goddess Chamunda.
- Historical Travel
- Arts and Culture
TUGU BALAI KOTA MALANG, MAYOR OFFICE
Tugu Balai Kota is an old building which constructed in the era of Dutch colonization, a circular Park in front of this building was a harmony of various kind of flowers, a TUGU or monument stand right at the center of a pond fully ornamented with an ample of beautiful lotus flowers.
This was a landmark of Malang City, a ground Zero where Malang residents recognize the place as TUGU
- Theme Park Trips
- Road Trip
Malang Flower Market
You could find various kinds of tropical flowers and trees here, there were many kinds of Indonesian tropical orchids, kembang sepatu or hibiscus rosasinencis, white color of jasmine, cactus and succulents, an exotic bonsai of banyan trees, and many others.
- Hiking and Walking
- Historical Travel
MALANG BIRDS MARKET
Malang Birds Market was just side by side with flower market, one could see not only various kinds of Indonesian Birds, but also imported birds from other countries, from parakeet to cockatoo, java eagle. here you could also find ornamental aQuarium fish and many others wild animals like monkey and wild cat.
DUTCH HOUSES of JALAN IJEN
JALAN IJEN was a popular place in Malang with the Dutch Architecture houses along this street, a unique architecture which was constructed about 100 years ago and still to be an object of preservation.
- Historical Travel
- Road Trip
Alun-alun is the most active part in this quite town ,it is always worth a browse.You can be shopping in Sarinah Department Store or dinning in old fishon style restaurant "Toko Oen", and also you could pray in Mosque & Church .From Material to Mental ,you got all here .
Things to do in Batu and Probolinggo
Well Surabaya just an ordinary city, for tourist not really!! If you know local, well that would be super fun, but if you there to explore everything by yourself, well, its a bit difficult!
Malang, well its a small city but cold in a mountain, for me to be honest , not really special, its an old town, alot of Dutch houses. Big trees, but still nothing special.
Batu, they have amusement park name Jatim Park, they said its really fun!!
In Batu I can suggest you stay in Klub Bunga, located next to Jatim Park, I really enjoy spend time there, Hotel is big, we can enjoy playing allday there, its not kinda luxury, but its big, and they have big swiming pool, gym, sauna, tennis court, mini golf, water polo, squash, shoot, mini zoo. Its really cool actually!!
Probolinggo is a good idea, go to Rafting there are soem rafting company you can visit like arus liar or Songa: http://www.songarafting.com/main/
; http://www.arusliar.co.id/east_java.html ; they both famous, just make reservation, they can transfer you too from Surabaya to Probolinggo.
For taxi, well thats crazy!!!
Surabaya to Probolinggo its about 4-5 hours.
Maybe better if you rent a car include the driver for few days while you in east java. they can take you to Bromo too!! Bromo is in Probolinggo, very beautiful place, Its a MUST!!
Have a nice trip!!
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