While in Bajawa ask around if there are any festivals taking place in the area where there are a few Ngada villages. Ngada people came around 200 years ago from Java and settled the area south of Bajawa. They are hunters and farmers, very skilful horse riders too. Your guest house will know this and arrange a tour for you. The villagers are...more
Wogo is another traditional Ngada village, one of the largest, with nine ngadhu and bhaga which is to say that there live nine family groups in the compound. A ngadhu is a conical thatched roof on a pole representing a male ancestor, and a bhaga is a miniature thatched-roof house representing a female ancestor.When we arrived here, the place looked...more
The best-known hot spring near Bajawa is usually referred to as Air Panas Soa. The flow is enormous and therefore a recreation area has been established here, where locals flock on holidays. We came on a working day and found the place deserted; did not even have to pay.Unfortunately the facilities are not well maintained; a group of bungalows is...more
Guide Lucas brought us here to conclude a day visiting five (!) traditional villages. A fitting end of the day, relaxing in the confluence of a cold and a hot river, the Wae Bana and the Wae Robakaba. From the road we had to descend into the river valley, not too difficult. But we had to choose carefully the spot where to bathe. As the mixing of...more
A minor eruption in 2001 put Wawo Muda volcano on the tourist map. In the rainy season the scarred crater landscape features five small lakes of an orange to deep red colour, earning Wawo Muda the nickname 'mini-Kelimutu'. However, during the dry season the lakes gradually dry out. We came some time into the dry season and found three bright orange...more
Mr Lucas is a man of many trades. Apart from being manager of Silverin Hotel and acting as a guide, he runs a restaurant on Jalan A Yani, right between the main hotels in town. Here is the place to meet other travellers.
The menu is the usual, the fare not bad at all.
Owner: Lucas Du'a Te'a, HP +62.81 353 907 073
Mrs Maria who guided us through New and Old Wogo, then inquired whether we would be interested attending a ceremony for the founding a new kampung (living compound). Of course we were. So we drove with her about 25 km direction Maubawa where the new kampung was to be established - the old one having become too small for the growing population.
At 1.30pm we were early, preparations were going on but slowly. An open field had been surrounded by a bamboo fence. Outside the fence a temporary traditional house had been erected as well as some shacks. The field was to become the centre of the kampung with houses all around it like in New Wogo.
We were offered a lunch and then we had to wait, while almost everyone wanted their photo taken, especially those in traditional dress. By 2.30pm we spied two men in a corner tying long ropes to the nose of a buffalo. Mrs Maria had to go home, and we too several times almost decided to leave, because we wanted to find accommodation in Bajawa before nightfall. But each time: “We will start shortly.”
When at last the program started it was with a couple of tedious speeches. Then it became more interesting, some two dozen people had to sign the legal documents handing over their rights on the land to the community. That should have sufficed in western eyes, but the adat required that the contract be sealed by sacrificing a buffalo at the altar put together for the purpose with rocks. So we steeled ourselves for seeing the throat of the buffalo slit. However, that was not the way it was done.
The idea seemed to be that blood had to be shed all around the perimeter of the field. Children and onlookers were ordered behind the bamboo fence. Then a dozen or so young men appeared with the buffalo on the long ropes, forcing the animal to walk around the field. And at each side of the field men with pikes stood ready to pierce the poor animal. Only after three full rounds the buffalo was hauled to the altar and given the coup the grâce. When it was dead is was hauled off to where it would be cut up and prepared for the banquet.
Of course we were invited to stay into the night and share in the feast, but by then it was 4pm and we had had enough.
See travelogue Sacrificing a buffalo for the ordeal of the animal, but be warned: it was bloody.
Where: Somewhere halfway along the road between Malanuza and Maumbawa, in the neighbourhood of Mataloko east of Bajawa.
The open space on each terrace of a nghaduvillage are occupied by bhagas, small spirithouses symbolising female ancestrors, and totempoles, so called nghadu, symbolising male ancestrors. They look like parasolls and are made up of a ornamented log with a roof of straw on top of it. There is one nghadu for each clan, so just by looking at a village...more
In the Bajawaarea, at the fot of the beautifull volcanomountain Gunung Inerie, two very special villages lie close by eacother. They belong to the nghadupeople, the most traditional of the peoples of fores. This is, at leat partly, because they were the last to get into contact with the european colonists. The nghadus are said to be decendants from...more
Mataloko are a small markettown in the Bajawaarea. It is the biggest market in the area and boost a rich peoplelife. This is also a good place to study the ikatcloth made all overFlores (and the rest of Nusa Tengara province), every area have their own design, so in the theory you can se where a person come from. The market itself are quite the...more