Prambanan Off The Beaten Path

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Candi Sari probably was not really a temple, as it is believed to have been the living quarters of he Buddhist priests serving Candi Kalasan (see Candi Kalasan Tip).
The building had two floors, three spacious rooms on each floor. However, the upper floor was made of wood and has disappeared. This is evident from the cavities on the interior walls that once supported the floor beams. Also the windows in the meter thick walls must have had wooden shutters.
Interior doorways are guarded by unusual kala (spirit monster) heads. The decorations on the outside are generally in better shape than those of Candi Kalasan.

Directions: From Candi Kalasan go 500 m north-east along the main road, then take the byroad going off due north (so 45 degrees left). The byroad takes you a few hundred meters straight to the temple.

Entrance: As usual a signature in the guest book and a voluntary donation. The warden was very eager to point out all the other temple sites.

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Another Hindu temple at the foot of Merapi volcano. It is only half restored, some restauration work having been done in 1926 and later in 2000. The top of the temple was assembled in 1926, but still stands at the side where they left it then.

Of interest is the yoni or altar inside the roofless temple. The conduit for water is not the usual gutter in the stone, but a bronze pipe. Intriguing are the reliefs of a snake, a cow and a turtle on the yoni, what can they mean?

See also the curious banister head, a combination of elephant, snake and bird. And pay attention to the fine relief on the side of the staircase.

Address: Karangnongko village, Karangnongko district, Klaten regency.

Directions: On the main road to Yogyakarta, at the western border of Klaten city, find the traffic lights on the eastern corner of the Gondang Winangun Sugar Factory. At these lights take the road north, after 6.5 km turn right to Karangnongko. Another 2 km and you reach a crossing at the Karangnongko district office (Kantor Kecamatan). Here go straight on where you reach a field behind the camat's office. Turn left at this T-crossing, you will see a porch "Candi Merak", a few 100 m more through the village you find the temple at your right hand.

Admission: The gate was locked, but the caretaker pak Slamet came running to open it for us. Write your name in his guest book and give a voluntary donation.

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A favourite for nature lovers, this forest on the south-eastern slope of Merapi volcano. At a height of 800 to 1300 m above sea-level, it is possible to hike to Merapi's summit, but we did not (yet) attempt it.

From here one has great views on Klaten plain, that is when clouds do not get in the way. So come early and in the dry season.
Part of the forest is evidently replanted. The deep ravines seem mostly untouched though. Walk the forest trails with the sound of birds. If you are lucky you will meet a band of monkeys (Java macaques).

At the entrance of Deles hamlet there is a barrier, one can drive past at the side of it. Past the village, 2.8 km from the barrier, at a simple bamboo pole a girl asked for Rp 3000 entrance fee. On the road beyond it we met her grandmother carrying fodder for her goat. The road is narrow, but at 800 m from the pole there is a picnic spot, and at 1200 m a hamlet where one can park and turn around.

Of interest in Deles hamlet: the former hideout of Sunan Paku Buwono X, and the sand quarry "Ngudi Lestari".

Address: Sidorejom village, Kemalang district, Klaten regency

Directions: On the main road to Yogyakarta, at the western border of Klaten city, find the traffic lights on the eastern corner of the Gondang Winangun Sugar Factory. At these lights take the road north, Deles Indah is well indicated. It is about 15 km to the barrier. From there it is another 4 km to the trail leading to the summit.

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It it said that the ruler of Kartasura in the 1930ies, Sunan Paku Bowono X, meditated in this mountain retreat with the purpose of averting any eruption of Merapi volcano in easterly direction - where Surakarta lies. Indeed, recent eruptions have caused damage to the south and to the west only!

The retreat is therefore still known as Pesanggrahan Sunan Paku Buwono X, although later it seems to have been owned by governor Muchtar. Probably it was he who added a theater for entertaining his guests. At present all structures are in disrepair, some lettering on a wall indicating that it is the property of the regional bank "Bank Pasar Pemda Klaten".

On the wall of the retreat itself there is a map of the Deles Indah region, that you may want to consult.

Address: Sidorejom village, Kemalang district, Klaten regency

Directions: See the directions for Deles Indah. From the barrier it is about 2 km uphill, then you find the retreat at your left hand.

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From the ravine of Woro river people are harvesting sand and rock, as they do from Bebeng river near Kaliadem. But also the sand on the ridges seems to be perfect for building purposes. We had a look around at the concession "Ngudi Lestari".

Before loading a truck they place a roof-shaped sieve on it, to filter out bigger pieces of rock. One truckload of sand sells for Rp 210,000. The driver wil take his load as far as Solo, Semarang or Purwodadi and resell it for up to Rp 700,000.

Address: Sidorejom village, Kemalang district, Klaten regency

Directions: See the directions for Deles Indah. From the Deles barrier it is about 1.5 km uphill to Ngudi Lestari quarry. Entrance to Woro river valley is 300 m before you reach the barrier. Both on your left hand.

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Here's an abbreviated translation of what it says in Indonesian on the information panel:

"According to an inscription on stone dated 778 AD it was king Panangkaran who had the temple Tarabhawana built and a statue of the goddess Tara placed in it. That temple is now called Candi Kalasan. The same inscription (now at the National Museum in Jakarta) also states that the king had living quarters (asrama) built for the priesthood and donated them the village Kalasan. That ashram is believed to be Candi Sari.

"Evidently Buddhist, Candi Kalasan is unique among the Prambanan temples. Research of its structure has revealed that what we are looking at may be the third version of the building, in other words the Tarabhawana temple was different.

"The characteristic decoration with sulung gelung (vertical winding aerial roots) makes Candi Kalasan seem higher than it is. The finely detailed reliefs were stuccoed, remnants of the plaster can still be seen. The main temple building used to be surrounded by 52 stupa's.
The temple measures 16.5 × 16.5 m square, of its height remains 24 m, the top is missing. At each side is an entrance porch with stairs, but the main entrance is on the east. This entrance leads to the central room where stood the Tara statue, only a large pedestal remains.

"In 1939 and 1940 repairs were made on the roof and the soutern entrance, but a complete restauration has never yet been attempted."

Directions: It is close to the Kalasan traffic lights, which are 4.8 km from Adisucipto Airport and about 2.5 km south of Prambanan.
Just across the road form the SMP school building and the hospital (100 m east of the lights), walk 50 m from the road.

Entrance fee: Your signature in the guest book and a voluntary donation.

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Another recently restored temple, still off the tourist itinerary. That is to say there is no parking, and the watchman debated our taking pictures.

Candi Ijo ('green temple') dates back at least to 906 AD, proof of which is an insrciption in stone mentioning the temple. It lies on a hill 357 m above sea level south of Prambanan. The layout is unique in that the complex was built on a series of terraces, whereas most Prambanan temples are built symmetrically around a centre as an image of Meru mountain, the abode of the gods. The layout of Candi Ijo may have been dictated by the sloping terrain.
On the top level are one main and three adjacent temples, all now restored. Work was in progress on the terrace wall. Whereas the lower terraces still show just heaps of stone.

Directions: Go south from the traffic lights past the railway station, same direction as Kraton Ratu Boko. Pass by the road leading to Candi Banyunibo. At 3.4 km from the traffic lights a signboard points you to the left to Candi Ijo. It is 4 km along this road, the last part climbing steeply, until you find the site on your left.
Half way up is a turnoff to the right to Arca Gupolo, and 1 km before Candi Ijo you pass through Gunung Sari village with rock quarries and workshops.

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Plaosan Kidul or southern Plaosan temples are just a short walk from Plaosan Lor temples. This is a group of real Buddhist temples, not a monastery. A few of the temples have been restored, most of the site contains remnants only. In the central space may have stood a pendopo or reception hall, and around them a number of candi perwara and stupa perwara (guard temples and stupas).
The complex is dated ninth century A.D.

Directions: See Candi Plaosan Lor.