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 Takoyaki grill by dlandt
Takoyaki isn't that expensive, about Y500 or $4.50. I imagine the price varies with location. Leave a Comment
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I thought this was kind of cool, skewered fish grilled over coals. These are fresh water fish from the Iya River valley of a kind called amego, (ah-meh-go) which I was told can only survive in waters that are absolutely pollution free. They were tasty and so light and delicate that they can be eaten meat, skin, bones and all. I skipped the head.
It seemed like all through rural Japan we would run into just the coolest food, sweet potatoes roasted in a parking lot, buckwheat cookies, just all sorts of stuff. These particular fish were being grilled under the awning of a convenience store. Leave a Comment
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 The Japanese equivalent of a
Christmas wreath by dlandt, 1 more photos
On the first day of the year, just like we often attend mass on Christmas, the Japanese head for the shrine, clogging the tiny roads which lead to the secluded centers. Once there, they walk through a wide range of food and beverage stalls and approach the shrine. At the one I attended, people stopped at a tree which had a hole in it and tried to toss coins up through the hole. The best coin to use was the five yen piece called the goyyim, whichis known for luck. Indeed, luck is one of the holiday's recurring motifs, as each person draws a fortune hoping for luck. If they want the fortune (written on a small piece of paper not much larger than that in a fortune cookie) they take the piece of paper with them, but if not, they tie it on a rack made for just that purpose. In shrines with tourist traffic they offer fortunes in English as well. You can pray in the shrine but that costs money, and my family chose not to do so. We just kindfo walked around the grounds taking in the sights and visiting with neighbors and friends, also meetin gup with more distant cousins. You might also see people buying arrows with whioch to shoot evil spirits.
I know this tip isn't of too much interest to the casual tourist who in all likelihood will not come during the (very mild) Japanese Winter, but I found that experiencing this holiday with the Japanese taught me a lot about their culture and how they look at the world. Leave a Comment
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One holiday food enjoyed by the Japanese is mochi, a dense, sweet rice treat which they also decorate as you can see in my photo. I've heard it mentioned that you should be careful giving mochi to the elderly as it is possible for them to choke on it, and some number of deaths are recorded each year. As you go through shopping areas and people's homes, you may see larger pieces of mochi decorated with oranges and other items as well as large pieces of art designed to look like them.
New Year's is also the Japanese gift-giving season, but adults are generally excluded. In their generous but quiet way, they pass small gifts of money to children (usually younger than 18) in small colored envelopes, no big shiny presents with bright ribbons and big cards. They also present the gift in the most humble of terms, apologizing that it isn't more. (OK I didn't know and dropped them in laps, "There ya go Shoko, party hardy!") The children for their part express profound thanks, receiving the gifts respectfully with both hands (the same way I was supposed to present them), bowing and accepting with gratitude.
Both New Year's Eve and New Year's Day are feast days for the Japanese, and they serve up huge portions of sushi, sashimi, cooked fish and meat, scallops, shrimp, pickled vegetables and fish cakes.... The list goes on and is no doubt tailored from family to family.
Obviously a full and insightful description of Japanese New Year's customs are not only beyond the scope of my knowledge, but they are beyond the scope of a simple VT tip as well. I just hope that in or out of Japan, this tip might explain some of what you might see or encounter. Leave a Comment
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To the Japanese of Tokushima Prefecture, the raccoon is a somewhat supernatural or mystical animal. Their local legends tell of raccoons transforming into people and causing mischief, telling lies in order to split lovers, tempting husbands or wives by appearing as beautiful women or handsome men, stealing sake and food etc.
Raccoons are generally represented like the fellow I'm standing beside. Quite frequently, they are shown revelling with sake bottles or in other happy, mischievous poses. For some reason, they also wear straw hats. Generally speaking, as you travel around Japan, if you see the raccoon represented, it means there is some kind of fun or pleasure to be had in the establishment displaying it, not always with a naughty twist. Leave a Comment
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 Shrine by dlandt
Japan is known as a buddhist country, but beneath the Buddhism lies an older, and I would argue deeper religion called Shinto. There is no central God in Shintoism, only many small ones, ranging from places to families to ancient emperors and military figures, to river spirits and most importantly, one's ancestors. It is, to me, no coincidence that the Japanese have a very strong belief in ghosts. The Shinto religion lays the groundwork for exactly such a belief.
By building a shrine such as the one you see here, the Japanese do more than just remember their lost child. They literally worship his or her spirit, and continue to provide for him or her by bringing small offerings of rice and other foods much as they would have done had the child lived. I don't know all the ins and outs of this custom. Do they bring candy? They offer sake for adults, but for the spirit of a child?
Of all the sights and customs of Japan, I found this to be one of the most foreign, almost alien customs of all, yet it is oddly touching if not a bit eerie. Sometimes when you look at a shrine and it appears to be a thousand years old, yet you see fresh rice and mochi inside, a chill goes up your spine, but something also touches your heart. Leave a Comment
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 by dlandtLeave a Comment
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 Making ramen noodles from the
cart by dlandt
Ramen carts aren't all that common but they aren't all that rare either. You should be able to find one anywhere people gather. Leave a Comment
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OK all you beef lovers, listen up!!
Japan may be known for its fish, but it also turns out some very very high quality beef. One way in whioch they serve this is to bring it out raw, on platters, and let you cook it on a grill in ther center of the table. Its a great experience, with beef so tender you'll think it is Kobe beef bit it's not. You drink beer and kick back while the women cook the food and put it in your bowl, then eat it with this kind of sauce, piping hot, with just a hint of char. I could eat this all night. Leave a Comment
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Wherever you see this kind of gate, you are at a shrine. Some are small, some are large, some are tucked away in neighborhoods and some are UN World Heritage sites.
I don't and didn't pray in any of the shrines I visited, but they are more open to outsiders than a Christian church would be. To pray, you simply throw some coins in the box, then ring the gong with the rope to get the Buddha's attention, place the palms of your hands together, touch your nose to your thumbs and bow three times, just like in the movies. Once you are praying, they aren't a bit concerned who you pray to, and I did see gaijin doing this. I myself would have had a hard time bowing down before a Buddha, but let your conscience be your guide.
Frequently, outside of the shrines there are water fountains with cups. Rinse them off before you drink, the water is supposed to be lucky. Incense is often available for a small charge, and in major shrines there are souvenier shops which also sell good luck charms These are NOT to be photographed for reasons I don't know. Leave a Comment
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