 | Kyrgyzstan General Tips | Tips 1 - 10 of 32 |  | Popular General Tips | Miscellaneous General Tips Tips | All Tips (32) Community based tourism (CBT) was initiated in May 2000. The main objective of the CBT is to improve the living conditions of people in remote mountain regions, by developing rural tourism without harming the natural environment and culture of local people. website: http://www.cbtkyrgyzstan.kg
The money you pay will help form and strengthen local institutions, build infrastructure, develop local income sources, conserve natural and cultural heritage. Leave a Comment |
In a yurt my occasional travelpartner Linda and I were warmly welcomed with tea and kumus (light alcoholic fermented horse milk). Our horses and guide (the father of the family) were ready. It was our plan to complete the circuit around the Lake –90 km.- in 3 days. I was pretty nervous. Never had been riding a horse before while Linda was experienced and our guide even a specialist!! How do you control a horse, it’s not a machine… My horse turned out to be really lazy, but I was told that it was my own fault. The problem was that the 3 horses differed of strength. The guide’s horse was always far in front, while mine could follow only with huge efforts and Linda’s horse, that was smaller, stayed behind. My horse refused following the guide but instead stayed around Linda’s horse. Once in a while she had the animal run fast fluently, which I couldn’t manage at all. But after a while I was doing a bit better. We rode for 8 hours, over the hills, along the shores and through grassland. And at dusk we arrived at a yurt for the first night. It couldn’t have taken any longer because my knees hurt and my bottom was almost skinless. I had almost to fall from the horse to get off! The family –who was not used to guests- did not participate in the Shepherd’s Life program, but was equally welcoming. The hygienic standards were indescribable, but anyway we had to adapt, eat and sleep (with 9 people in the yurt –quite cosy!). Leave a Comment |
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Towards the evening we arrived at half a dozen of yurts, where we could stay for the night. It appeared to be the settlement for a bird observatory. A huge telescope was installed and they had to register the species and their numbers. Of course we could have a look as well, which was enchanting since we could observe not only birdlife but also a beautiful full moon at night! This time we were given a place in a guest yurt. Leave a Comment |
Halfway the 3rd day my body hurt so terribly much from riding that horse that I decided to walk. When we arrived at our guides’ family yurt, his wife made us a fantastic dinner and announced party tonight! Surprise!! It was the most unlikely disco night in my life. Many neighbours came over and in the freezing darkness they parked a small truck, turned the lights on and played a tape loudly on it’s recorder. Huge supplies of kumus and a lot of fun. We kept dancing until midnight. At midnight, when the full moon was bright we continued the party with playing a traditional Kyrgyz game. Two teams (called hammer and sickle) were separated and a sheep bone had been hidden. Goal was to find the bone, shout loudly the name of your team, and try to bring back the bone home! Not much later the 16 of us were rolling over each other on frozen horseshit fighting the bone. We (Sickle) lost just 2-1. Afterwards we continued the open air disco night , this time enjoying vodka and (a kind of) wine, but soon I found myself on the sleeping mat. On day 4 the jeep of Shepherd’s Life came to pick us up and just before darkness we were back in Bishkek! It had been a very special and unforgettable trip!!! Leave a Comment |
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On the 2nd morning the sky was dark, even black, as lightning struck the lake. But we had to cover a distance today. So we left anyway and I have to admit that 4 hours later, I was about to give up. On our way it started to hail and the big stones did hurt not only me but also the horse, that was out of control and ran to the next yurt faster than I could imagine of such a lazy animal. I –as well as my backpack- were soaked and –in almost freezing conditions- terribly cold, wasn’t prepared for this. Hardly couldn’t move hands and my body hurt everywhere. But at the closest yurt we were warmly welcomed again; the lovely woman gave me a blanket and 2 hours later the world looked already different. Sun, sun, sun! My clothes dried in no time and, when we continued, I was ready to enjoy again! Leave a Comment |
Based in the closest town –Kochkor- a Swiss organisation runs a program called Shepherd's Life, aims to bring together foreign visitors and shepherds in a responsible way. The families that wants to take part in the project gets half day’s training after which they can receive guests at fixed fees.One of the conditions is e.g. to have a fenced hole in the ground for toilet, even if they’re used to go themselves in the open field. The initiative is on small scale, an average participant receives some 30 guests a year. The visitor will stay in the yurt together with the family and should adapt as much as possible to the primitive circumstances and local customs. The fees are paid directly to the family. In the summer of 2001 I paid on an average about $8/day, including guide, private horse, 3 meals/day and place to sleep (on a blanket on the floor). During our trek we were also guest of non-participating families who were equally welcoming and although levels of civilisation were sometimes less appealing, it was a great experience to live with them just the same way as they do. Other ways to explore Song Kul: Besides Shepherd’s Life, there are 2 other ways to visit Song Kul. Firstly you can go for a fully equipped and organised trip, direct or indirectly arranged through a professional Bishkek agency – around $25/day, but it goes without saying that this doesn’t improve mutual satisfaction, is less charming and doesn’t benefit the locals. Secondly you can go completely independently -very adventurous. In that category we met 2 travellers on a tandem travelling from Turkey to Pakistan. You can check out their fascinating website: www.tandemtoturkestan.com Leave a Comment |
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While trekking around the Lake you can learn a lot about, and experience local Kyrgyz customs as you like -well, you have to... Life is, especially for the men, relatively relaxed. It’s their job to keep an eye on the grazing animals, and it’s most of the time delegated to their sons and dogs. It’s a beautiful sight to watch a 6 year old boy on a small horse running after a cow! In poorer families the men sometimes stay behind in town to try to make some additional money there. The women do most of the work. Milking the horses and cows, preparing food, producing large quantities of tea and kumus (fermented horsemilk), doing the dishes, taking care of the yurt, the children, the elders, the guests (e.g. neighbours and travellers) and all these things. meals All meals do basically consists of bread and different kinds of butter and are accompanied by some 5 cups of tea and 3 cups of kumus (horsemilk). Traditionally tea will be poured into the cup and back in the pot 2 times, before served to the guests, something I highly appreciated! Also I noticed an attempt to make cheese and even jam. Breakfast usually comes with meat (as experienced as a guest- but not common), and lunch and supper with fresh Song Kul fish and soup with undetermined contents. In the Lake there are 3 different species and the women know how to prepare these!! Leave a Comment |
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Lake Song Kul is a remote area of peace and tranquillity at an altitude of 3016m, and is visited by travellers, who want to experience rural Kyrgyz nomadic life and enjoy nature. Shepherds pitch their yurts around the Lake to stay there for the summer with family and animals. Most of the area is protected because of the presence of endangered species like snowleopard (rarely spotted) and a big variety of birds (all over). Leave a Comment |
Travelling along the Great Silk Road is preferable following such route: Bishkek - Burana tower - Issyk-Kul lake - Song-Kul lake - Naryn - Tashrabat caravan sarai - Eki-Naryn - Bishkek - Osh - Arslanbob nut forest - Uzgen - Irkeshtam to China or Tashkent or Alma-Ata
Issyk-Kul lake and mysterious caravan sarai is the most forgettable. Hunting Marko Polo (mountain sheep) is also touching! Leave a Comment |
You must admire nature - that's the main thing. And you must not hurry!
Fondest memory... The deep blue sky against white mountain peaks. Leave a Comment |
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