My memories of this sauna close to the Pik Lenin base camp (about 5km away) make me smile. I anticipated our group all sitting together having a relaxing social sauna. Instead the sauna - based at the TV relay station overlooking the base camp - was in a tiny room that fitted 1 adult and 1 child maximum at a time. Still, a sauna is a sauna, and there is no substitute for getting clean. If you look in the photo, you will see 2 taps. One is for cold water, the other is for hot water. You stand in the tin basin. You decant your own mix of water into a pot, to your desired temperature, and pour it over your head. It cost us maybe $2 per person, and I would have paid 10 times as much for the pleasure!
Updated Nov 1, 2007
Address: TV relay station near Pik Lenin base camp
Pik Lenin is one of the most accessible and least difficult peaks above 7000m to climb. It does require snow/ice experience, but is a good introduction to the high altitude peaks of the Himalaya and Pamirs. This was why we were there. The base camp was at 3720m, and it was not possible to see Pik Lenin from base camp itself. There were 4 groups of people (4 tour operators), totalling about 70 tents, and 200 people trying to summit that season. Base camp is like a small village in an onon field (see pic), a buzzing metropolis. Our facilities included 9 tents in our area, plus a canteen tent and a kitchen tent, 2 toilets, a shower of sorts (very complimentary to call this a shower), a sink (double bowl even), and a curio yurt (believe it or not!). At this sort of altitude, we walked slowly everywhere. I hiked to 4300m and did not feel breathless or headachy because ... I ..... walked ... very ..... slowly. (See pic)
The place reminds you constantly that although it is accessible, it is also the sight of the biggest mountaineering disaster in history: the entire Camp 2 was wiped out by an avalanche in 1990 and more than 40 people lost their lives. (see pic)
The sister peak of Lenin - right next to Achik Tash base camp, is amusingly called "The 19th meeting of the Communist Party Congress" Peak.
The ascent takes about 16-17 days including acclimitisation walks.
Updated Nov 1, 2007
Address: Pamirs
On the other side of the valley you'll see some snowcapped mountains. It is just overwhelming to watch the first light glow on the glaciers early in the morning.
One of this impressive 7.000m high mountains is Pik Lenin. In 1871 it has been called Pik Kaufman after der former general gouverneur of Turkestan the Russian Konstantin Petrowitsch Kaufman. It was renamed in 1928 to Pik Lenin.
Pik Lenin belongs to the Trans-Alay-Range of Pamir Mountains. It is the second highest mountain in Pamir. It is located between Kyrgystan and Tadjikistan. The summit of Pik Lenin has been first climbed in 1928 by the members Karl Wien, Eugen Allwein und Erwin Schneider of a German Expedition.
In 2006 the Tadjikistan Gouvernement announced, that Pik Lenin is now called Pik Indipendence (Tadjik: Qullai Istiglol). But the Tadjik President announced, that the correct name is Pik Abuali ibni Sino after a Persian philosopher. He says, that 100km away former Pik Revolution now is called Pik Indipendence. Very confusing...
There are 16 routes to climb the summit. Some of the routes are technically not very complicated or dangerous, so every summer there are expeditions to the summit. But there can be strong winds or avalanges, that have costs some lifes in the last years.
Updated Sep 30, 2007
The word yurt is originally from the Turk word meaning "dwelling place". This word is mainly used by foreigners. The Kyrgyz people say "Boz Üy". Very similar yurts can be found in Mongolia, where they are called "Ger".
The yurt consists of a circular wooden frame carrying a felt cover. The felt is made from wool. The timber to make the external structure is not to be found on the treeless steppes, and must be traded for in the valleys below.
You can find yurts throughout Central Asia and also in China, Siberia and Mongolia. It is a traditional way of living for most nomadic people in Asia.
Updated Aug 24, 2007
The poor road leading from Irkeshtam border point to Sary Tash is in very bad condition. But the valley with its nomads and herds and the snowcapped mountains around is spectacular. The mountains are the more than 6.000m high mountains of Pamir Alay. The drive takes about 4 to 5 hours. It is mainly used by trucks coming from or going to China. The valley is about 3.000m high. You can stop at one of the yurts you'll see on the way. People are friendly and like to invite you to a cup of tea and some fresh homemade bread.
Updated Aug 24, 2007
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The poor road leading from Irkeshtam border point to Sary Tash is in very bad condition. But the valley with its nomads and herds and the snowcapped mountains...
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Sary Tash is a small village in the Pamir Alay Valley. A few houses, some Yurts: that's it! The surrounding is spectacular!
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