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I left my heart in Luang Prabang

by calcaf38

If you come all the way to Luang Prabang, be sure to spend at least three days there.This small town is in a gorgeous setting, around a steep hill and at the junction of two rivers.L.P. is an important Buddhist center, and temples abound. Some temples are more plain and rowdy, with monks playing soccer. Others are just buzzing with otherworldliness.The town's atmosphere is languid and eerie. For some reason, the same mildew that is not so great in my bathroom takes on a philosophical quality in L.P.Just like in San Francisco, or in Venice, there is a harmony between the nature, the architecture and the culture of the place that is pure magic.

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feeling cocky

by richiecdisc

Feeling cocky after our escape, we soon realized we had no idea where the boats went from so hopped on the first tuk tuk that came our way. His cheap price seemed no bargain as we pulled into what looked like a big grassy lot with no water in sight. I mentally prepared for an altercation but he showed us the way to the dock, all for the bargain price of twenty-five cents. Trying to not act smug was difficult as we sauntered by the herd and bought our own tickets at face value. Of course, the boat was not so full as extolled and even if it had been, either more would have been crammed on, or another boat would be in the waiting. Though saving five dollars each is small by Western standards, it helps stem the tide of the inevitable rise in prices that occurs when foreigners are not careful when spending money abroad. (continued below in Fondest Memory)

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on chartering a helicopter

by richiecdisc

The second day brought only one small surprise. We had only bought a ticket to Pakbeng, partially to leave open the option of staying there another day or heading north by pickup truck. It was also rumored that when you bought the two-day ticket, some places would actually just write up a ticket for half the trip. In fact, many passengers did have tickets that said Pakbeng on them despite having paid for passage all the way to Luang Prabang. It was not a problem to get another ticket but mysteriously, the ticket was not quite as cheap as if purchased all at once. We laughed at this small incongruity. Just the thought of another night in Pakbeng had us more than willing to charter a private helicopter out! (concluded below in Fondest Memory)

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on not being swindled

by richiecdisc

We made our way easily down to the river on our own accord but even in so doing, nearly got herded into the mass of backpackers who had been sold into groups by local agents. This merely got them a higher price and the use of a woman to help them unnecessarily across the border. She tried to help herself to some of our money by asking for 200 baht for the minuscule boat crossing into Laos. We stood perplexed evidently long enough for the actual boatsman to ask for the correct one-tenth price fare. Once on the other side, the true gauntlet began. The border crossing now provides visas on arrival though this being a Sunday, we were charged an additional dollar holiday fee for processing and then another negligible stamp fee by the next opportunist in the chain. But within a matter of fifteen minutes, we were across the border with two-week visas in our hands and forty thousand kip in our...

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that one is supposed to be a real adventure

by richiecdisc

The river scenery was even more enthralling the second day though the trip not a second shorter. The kids were particularly photogenic and had not been spoiled into asking for money for these qualities just yet. Nevertheless, there was not a person on board that would sign up for a third day if given the chance, and we were uniformly elated to get onto dry land. A city never looked so good as Luang Prabang did on arrival. Though the trip was not as adventurous as the literature would have you believe, we were quite happy to have done it and compared with other options of entering Laos, I would have to highly recommend it. As was evident by a family utilizing it, it is increasingly a choice being made by even mainstream tourists. Would I do it again? I think not. But I did read about another Mekong River trip entering Laos from the southern border with Cambodia. Now, that one is...

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a few bursts of light from our handy torch

by richiecdisc

It was dark in no time but after refurbishment, we decided to wander the one dirt road in town while the generators were still going. One extremely persistent beggar and little much on offer in the town itself had us back at the guesthouse in less than an hour. With another big boat trip early in the morning, we opted to forgo more beers and returned to our now dark and foreboding hovel. The holes seemed much larger by the light of our small torch and though we saw not one mosquito the whole evening, we were very happy to have a mosquito net as the one luxury in the otherwise spartan room. Once inside our enclosure, the sounds started. Ferry friends were soon scurrying inside the walls right behind our heads, stopping only with a few bursts of light from our handy torch. We managed to get some sleep despite the racket, but were more than happy to get up before the crack of dawn and out...

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heaving sighs

by richiecdisc

All heaved a sigh of relief as the boat pulled into Pakbeng and were immediately pounced on by the local kids, understandable trying to make a buck. Though my guide said a particular guesthouse was best, I went with a friend’s suggestion and let its riverside location and the quickly setting sun lead me there. It was little more than a bamboo hut and though I did not expect luxury in such a remote location or for the price of two dollars a double, I did want to share it solely with the girl I came to dance with. Only after making a commitment did I notice the curious openings in the bamboo that riveted the room like bullet holes. Thinking little of it, we grabbed icy showers and headed to the verandah to meet up with some boat mates for beers and some dinner. (continued below in Fondest Memory)

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meandering scenery

by richiecdisc

The boat trip itself was uneventful as the beautiful scenery meandered by at a leisurely pace and fellow travelers did what they do best, exchange stories from the road. Those on endless trips seemed to feel sorry for those with a mere couple months to explore the region. Others looked more than ready to go home. Contrary to accounts that I had read, this was no locals’ boat and was far from full of shoestring travelers either. There was, in fact, quite a wide spectrum of travelers including a middle-aged couple from Canada lugging around their two young sons. Though by no means a luxury cruise ship, it was fairly comfortable aside from the length of the trip, which stretched to nine hours with all the stops we made. (continued below in Fondest Memory)

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Extortionate Offers

by richiecdisc

Though Laos has its share of beautiful architecture and nature, the people are the true drawing card of this emerging travel destination. The trip down the Mekong River from Northern Thailand into Laos was touted as a bit of a rough adventure but as the boat pulled out from small village Pakbeng, the only rough part aside from getting a fair shake on the trip’s price seemed to be over. It began innocently enough two days prior when horror stories about night buses in Thailand proved most unfounded. We motored up into the northeastern part of the country in the lap of luxury, with ample leg-room, provided blankets and pillows, and even a stewardess dishing up some snacks. So, we arrived in Chiang Khong not as exhausted as expected and in good form to fend off local boat sales agents offering the two-day trip to Luang Prabang in Laos at extortionate prices. (continued below in Fondest...

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Wat Xieng Thong

by norain

With its golden facades and mural paintings, Wat Xieng Thong is a masterpiece of 16th century Buddhist architecture. The temple was used for the highest royal ceremonies and to temporarily house the bodies of the deceased kings.

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Questions and Answers

trusmibatik profile photo

Q:  do any VT have any experience with the VIP overnight sleeper bus from Vientiane to Luang Prabang??? is it reasonably... 

singnomore profile photo

A: I took the VIP bus from Luang Prabang to Vientienne in 2010. There is a toilet on the bus. I was on the upper deck and the airconditioner was very weak. So it was a VHB... 

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