Fun things to do in Khoueng Khammouan

There are still few colonial-time houses left in Thakhek: these are nestled in the old town centre by Mekong. Some are still in quite good shape and used for living or/and turned into offices, restaurants or other kinds of commercial use or both. That part is pleasant place to sit in shadow, eat or drink, to observe people buying local food at food stalls, have beer or coffee and walking by river. This is a photo of construction site at one of those side streets - when they get paved they will probably look more inviting.
Apart of old, lots of new buildings rise in town - the biggest are those for administrative use - which spread further along main streets towards road 13. These are concrete houses and offices - were built fast but they all look the same and lack charm.

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Phou Hin Boun NBCA is mountainous landscape with lots of limestone rocks, streams, rock walls, jungle and caves. One cannot see very well how magificient these mountains are if you just stay in bus which bypass it on the way to Southern Laos or Vietnamese border. For best views you'll have to stay in Thakhek and rent a motorbike then take side roads which are not many, but few - which will take you to earthen and sometimes sandy paths/roads. Best to get up early becuase it can get very hot around noon.

The photo of that peak was taken near Nase village. There weren't many people cycling these ways, perhaps it was too hot? I really think it's worth to spend a few days here and go in the heart of protected area.

Dress conservatively if you visit villages - this place receives far less tourists than Vang Vieng or LPB and people here are more shy but they get friendlier if you spend some time in the village (when you sit down to have your cold coke or 'ice cream' for example). Very little English is spoken here. Ask for the map (small fee) at Tourism office in Thakhek, this little piece of paper can help you with directions on where to head and when to turn off the main road: but of course, be observant and watch for the road signs (there are some - smaller and shy ones) and talk with a local (learn some basic words) if you are going to try off the beaten path sites. In my opinion guide is not necessary, but if you feel more confident, they can be organized through tourism office (or some of the better, well established tour agencies who specialize in eco tourism).

Important warning: Khammouane province is one of the hardest hit areas in Laos during 'secret war' and lots of places yet need to be cleared of land mines, especially those remotest ones. As long as you stick to paths used by locals with clear signs of use, you are safe.

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I loved that cave. It's pearl of caves; quiet with small turquise lake in the bottom which reflects beautiful light from surrounding stones and add to the atomosphere: parts of cave are turquise colored lime stones themselves and temperatures are pleasant - its nor hot nor cold inside. There's Buddhist shrine and few decorations (colorful little flags) none too invading (see on the second photo). At time of my visit there were no other people inside but there were a few bats. I trully enjoyed the tranquility of cave, the colors and watching its lake (some infromation read that you're not allowed to swim there because its waters are sacred and I think it's not safe either): it's one of the small hidden treasures of the province, which has not yet become crowded. Magic that is!

Direction: You need to drive Rd. 12 quite far from Thakhek.... about 20 km or so. There will be small road side market on your right and you'll see the sign fro cave behind the rock wall. Few meters from the road at your right side there's place to leave your cycle and few stairs into the cave. There's no entry fee (yet - speaking of 2009).

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Right under Pa Fa with Buddhas there's a small lake that continues inside the cave. A local guy can take you with a boat for 10 minutes ride with torch. Inside there are many bats and the cool place comes refreshing on a hot day. Who knows how deep and far that water actually is - once you come to the wall you have to turn around and go back. But it's sure it doesn't stop there, it needs yet to be explored. If we only knew how to dive in caves we would trully see its greatness. See wonderfull karst shapes and enjoy its real quietness and tranquil darkness.

Guy will charge 10 000 KIP for a ride - by narrow wooden boat which leaks water (by time you're reading this he may already replace it). It's not a lot, but I've heard some foreigners from well situated countries saying 'it's too expensive' - haha. The guy doesn't get rich with that money, that's for sure.

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Meung Khone stupa looks quite old but it was difficult to get any 'official' information, or any written document on it so I wouldn't speculate on its age (the outer signs of change are not reliable either, if you know how fast things change in humid subtropics). It's also a bit far by unpaved road from Thakhek (maybe about 20 km or so) so it gets little visitors. Easiest way if you want to look for it is by motorbike; though it's not always that easy to navigate sometimes sandy and dusty 'road'. At the time of our visit there were no people near stupa, though some signs of use reminded that it isn't really completely deserted place: monks robes were hanging near and there was a little wooden temple next to its ground: and it's pleasant, shady forest where stupa is, just some minutes away from the fields.

To get there: continue driving the road further from Pa Fa cave. It will be very scenic ride at the edge of Phou Hin Poun NPA and will pass a few settlements. At the intersection in Nase village turn left and in few kilometers you'll see small road sign for stupa. It's about 500 m off the road in nice, very quiet setting of seemingly abandoned temple at the edge of forest. At foot of stupa there are few Buddha statues, Naga and flower ornaments. Worth doing that way because of the way itself.

Laos has few distinctive Buddha caves - most famous one being in Pak Ou. But Khammouane province has its own one and it's one of the most important places of worship for locals and nowsadays important tourist site near ThaKhek. It's karst cave but has long time been 'undiscovered'. Just recently in 2004, a villager from nearby village had found it by accident when he tried to catch some bats. He climbed quite high above the pool of water when he found the place full of Buddha statues.... they say there must be about 229 of them and aged some 300 years. Being such a quiet and important religious site for Lao it's important that you keep your voice low when inside. And take off your shoes, of course.

To find it you'll need local map (ask at the agency or your hotel) or/and follow the signs for Pa Fa (from Road 12). It's about 6 km from Thakhek in the stunning area with lots of limestone peaks and near the cave there's modest village. That's Khammouane countryside. You'll need to rent something (most people come by motorbike) otherwise tuk tuk will charge you a lot.

You have to pay 2000 KIP for the entry fee at the small desk. If you don't have your own sarong or long dress (women) you need to borrow it for them and pay another 2000 KIP, then return the sarong when leaving. If you came by motorbike, you will have to pay another 2000 KIP for parking fee. Photos inside the cave are not alowed. Prices here date to 2009, so believe that every year since they will rise and change.

This is very old and important stupa near Thakhek and also place for large Buddhist festival. Located at Muang Kao temple by Mekong river. It's difficult to find out when it was built - a book dedicated to Sikhottabong stupa says it was found as early as 107-43 BC by king of Sikhottabong (in form of mound where they placed Buddha's remains whose were brought there by monk). For sure it was there already in 16th centruy when written documents mentioned it first time - the stupa was then going over main reconstruction works. In future more reconstructions and imporvements followed under different kings but the site suffered greatly from Siamese invasions. When fightings were over people took care of it again and laters they build 'viharn' for monks to live there continuously.

Nowsadays it looks fine - with smooth lines and fresh gold paint, surrounded by white walls. Keeps the famous Lao style shape and it looks bit like That Luang of Vientiane.

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We had a lot of time to spend in Thakhek area so one afternoon we went to see the place called Tha Falang some 14 km from town. In past it was popular location to visit by French (that's why they gave that name because Falang is Lao word for France and also a word they constantly use when reffering to 'white westerner') whom liked to relax there and had picnics. Every local guide said it was good spot for swimming - in slow part of river, in shade of mountain and turqouise waters. How nice to think of refreshment on a hot day! However, we got there late and was already a bit chilly. Didn't try to swim then. Some parts of the grassy 'beach' looked used by many people already - trampled, with few black spots of someone's barbecue and some trash. In the end I enjoyed watching buffalos crossing the river - noone else was there.