Luang Prabang Nightlife

The livelier nightlife in Luang Prabang seems to centre around a small area in Ban Aphay on Rathsavong Road. Ban Pa Garden is one of the cluster of places here (see seperate tips for the others), and, to be honest, they are all much of a muchness. They all offer various two for one promotions, happy hours and so on. To be honest, I think the market is oversubscribed as, even in high season, none of them ever seem to be vaguely approaching capacity. It is neither better nor worse than any of the others and the service is OK. To be honest, the night I was there I would be surprised if it wasn't. It was just after New Year and the town was pretty dead with many of the travellers having moved on after the New Year party. As a result, I was the only person in there.

The staff are friendly and when I jokingly complained about the thumping dancde music being played, indicating I was too old for such things, the waiter politely showed me the computer which controls the music and allowed me to get on with the music selection for the rest of the night. Cue some more sedate selections.

In short, it is a perfectly pleasant place for an evening drink but nothing special.

Dress Code: None that I could see.

The main competition for the traveller night-time dollar seems to be centred in the Area of Ban Aphay, along a small strip of Rathsavong Road and seems to centre on the rivalry of Hive Bar and Lao Lao Garden with Ban Pa Garden bringing up the rear (see seperate tips), but it appears there is a new kid on the block. Recently opened with obviously quite a lot of Canadian / Lao money it is undoubtedly the best equipped of the night spots and really is quite impressive by local standards. The picture shows the rather odd concept of beach volleyball being played in a totally land-locked country and the full size court is just one of the attractions on offer.

It is an odd place. There are numerous pieces of hopefully neutralised ordnance about the place, which frankly I think it could do without. The place is very well equipped and the toilets are spotless. A large chopper motorcycle adorns the dancefloor, and if you don't feel that energetic there are plenty of chillout areas. There is even a crows nest 20 metres high should you feel that adventurous. The music ranges from salsa to rock with the obligatory dance music for the backpack crowd. It has an excellent location on the river with nice daytime views.

All this sounds as if it should be a winner but it just isn't. I was there on New Years Eve when it was obviously packed but I went a couple of days later and counted five people in the place. The other four were friends of the Canadian manager. Firstly, the location. Do not believe the sign on the road that says it is 50 metres away, it is more than that and you have to walk down a little alleyway through a residential area. Secondly, the staff and organisation just aren't there. The numerous waiting staff will ignore you totally seeming to be too engrossed in their own affairs. Not wishing to mess up the floor, I had to ask for an ashtray four times from the same waitress whilst I watched her happily flirting with her boyfriend. You usually end up going to the bar yourself as it is quicker than waiting for service. One night they even ran out of Beer Lao which is something akin to an Irish pub running out of Guinness. The advdertised wifi is not installed yet and no-one seems to know when it will be. All small things but they mount up.

Perhaps they are all just teething problems but at the minute, pleasant as the surroundings are, I would give it a miss.

Dress Code: None.

Lao Lao Garden is one of the group of nightspots clustered in Ban Aphay on Rathsavong Road, and there seems to be some sort of idea amongst certain travellers that it is a gay bar. I believe this derives from a comment in the ubiquitous Lonely Planet guidebook, although I am not using that guide for this leg of my journey. Let me put this myth firmly to rest now, this is not a gay bar, at least not in a sense that people from the West would understand it. It is not a cruising or pickup joint, and I do not believe such a thing exists in Luang Prabang. It is a bar where gay men or women will be welcome (as indeed anywhere in the town) as long as they do not indulge in overt displays of affection. The Lao are a very conservative people and such displays are offensive to them, whether homosexual or heterosexual. Homosexuality is widely tolerated in Lao.

What it in fact is is yet another nightspot with the pumping music, various happy hour and two for one deals etc. which alll the places seem to have. There is a pool table which has seen better days, European football is shown on a large screen and as the name suggests there is a large garden where they light a very pleasant bonfire at night. As with everywhere else in town, they will throw you out unceremoniously at 2330 to comply with the curfew.

There is a wi-fi connection here although it is fairly slow and the connection tends to drop out now and again. It is for this reason that I spend a bit of time here in the evenings, checking my VT!

I spent Xmas Day night here and it was a slightly surreal scene. Apart form the normal light display, they had decked out a huge Xmas tree and all the staff were wearing Santa hats and red scarves. If you imagine Santa's grotto on LSD you will be somewhere close.

In short, as good a place as any to spend an evening in Luang Prabang and probably a little livelier than most. The photo shows the Xmas tree in all it's glory.

Dress Code: None.

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The Bowling Alley as you discover is the only place open after midnight where you can get a drink. While you are there why not have a game of bowling. When we went there was a crowd of us and we had a great time.

It was more modern than we were expecting. Computerised scoring.

Although I cannot tell you where it is, don't worry all the tuk tuk drivers know where it is. They will approach you as you leave the bars.

Dress Code: No dress code. If they don't have enough shoes, you just bowl bear foot.

There is few nightlife in the city, everything is closed around midnight; but Hive is a good option if you want to meet people, enjoy good techno music and nice hip decoration. Lao Lao Garden located next to Hive is also a good place to have a drink in the garden terraces.

As the name suggests it is set in a pleasant garden with fairy lights and candles. There is an indoor section with pool table and TV should it rain. Drinks are reasonable and happy hour is pretty good. It gets busy after 8.30pm. The staff are friendly and attentive. Food is pretty good. Shuts at 11.30/12am

Dress Code: No dress code

Cool little wine bar on the main drag, with tables both inside and on the little outdoor terrace overlooking the road. They have a small but interesting winelist, although only 2 wines available by the glass, and those both coming from boxes…

Cocktails and regular bar drinks also served, as is food. Jazzy, laid-back tunes and friendly service make it a nice place to relax and unwind.

This is a small bar with an outside patio that attracts most tourists and ex pats. It is on the other side of the strett from and between the Phousi Hotel and Mount Phousi. You will find it easily with a little walking.

The beer is cold and they serve Lai Lai. I cannot divulge how Lai Lai is made, trade secret, but it is the favored whiskey of Laos. Aged over 6 days sometimes. Try a few shots and say good night Gracey.

Dress Code: No, if your a male jeans are fine.