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Saagar Says: The Limi Valley is considered one of the most remote and remarkable valleys in the Nepal Himalaya. It is definitely a most beautiful valley if you appreciate Tibetan landscapes, dry and desert like surrounded by very high mountains. Limi is poulated by Tibetan people who...
Saagar Says: From Simkot there is a nice, short acclimatization hike up to Simkot Lagna (pass) at 3270 meters just to the northwest of town. From Simkot Lagna you can catch a glimpse toward the upper parts of Humla Karnali valley and the first pass toward Limi. If the skies are clear you...
Chiya pasals: Tea shops/pasals on the Kailash trail
Saagar Says: From Simkot to the Hilsa border, the socalled Kailash Trail along the Upper Karnali, there are some tea shops that cater for travellers. The tea shops are located on the main trailside at (from Simkot) Simkot Lagna, Upper Dandaphaya, Machgaon, Daraphuri, Lower Kermi, Muchu...
any placeserving food.: Humla food
Saagar Says: Food in Humla is marked by the divide betweeen bhate culture (mainstream Nepali culture of rice-eaters) and lthe ocal food habits where rice isn't a common feature. Highland rice is grown up to Jadkholsi village a day's walk northwest along Karnali river from Simkot, but it...
Simkot town: Curfew sometimes imposed in Simkot
Saagar Says: NB! THE INSURGENCY-RELATED CURFEW IS NO LONGER IN EFFECT. BUT BECAUSE OF OCCASIONAL POLITICAL FIGHTING IN SIMIKOT LEADING TO SHORT-TERM CURFEWS I KEEP THIS POSTED. CURFEWS MAY BE IMPOSED AT ANY TIME. ADHERE TO IT. Due to the insurgency there is a curfew in place in Simkot....
Community halls in Til, Halji and Jang: Night life in the Limi Valley villages
Saagar Says: The Limi Lama people are strong party goers. There is heavy eating and drinking, music and dancing in the community halls in all three villages. And it lasts way down into the night and can be rather on the frivoulous side. All generations parttake, though. Decent, not too...
Saagar Says: The trails of Upper Humla along the Karnali river are so hard and steep and in places too narrow for "normal" pack and riding animals. For cargo, sheep and goats are used, and small cows, too. Yaks, mules, donkeys and horses are used only for shorter transports. You may,...
Access to Simkot and Humla by air.
Saagar Says: There are sheduled and charter flights by various small aircraft (up to Twin Otter size) from Nepalgunj. Furthermore, there are also charter flights from Surkhet to Simkot by helicopter and small aircraft. However, getting to Humla by air isn't that easy. First, if you have...
From locals or Nepal Trust Guest House: Souvenir things to buy in Humla
Saagar Says: The all-purpose waist weave coarse blankets/thin rugs are amongst the most appreciated things you will enjoy in Humla, and as the resources are there, you can buy one or order specially made for you.Jewelry; always something of interest, but the beauty is in the eye of the...
Saagar Says: These items are for sale in peoples' homes in Limi Wooden drinking and eating bowls made from maple tree or birch burls. Finely carved and laquesred, these are personal tsampa and chang bowls and a prized possession in the Tibetan and North Nepalese/Kathmandu market. Most...
Saagar Says: Humli people will be quick to offer you tea. This tea might not be what you are used to, since limited availability of commodities and old traditions reign. Even the hinud community of Humla might thus serve up salt tea outside Simkot (where sugar and milk powder is flown...
Local food - grains and vegetables
Saagar Says: Millet:You can make a porridge, pakodas, noodles, cakes, alcohol (Humlis make porridge and alcohol)Buckwheat:Pancakes, noodles, various dumplings, mixed flour etc. (Humlis make sour pancakes, mainly)Potatoes:You can make just about anything with potatoes. (Humlis curry and...
Malpracticing trekking agents on the Kailash trail
Saagar Says: Upon surfing the internet I came across the website (below) that ¨describes in detail how things can go horribly wrong on booking and paying for a trip via Nepalese and Tibetan travel and trekking agents. I cannot vouch for the truth of this story, but it is well worth...
Crossing military checkposts after 6pm
Saagar Says: APRIL 2008: THIS WARNING IS NO LONGER VALID. HOWEVER, THE SITUATION REMAINS FAIRLY VOLATILE AND SIMILAR ACCESS SANCTIONS MAY BE IMPOSED. I THEREFORE KEEP IT POSTED UNTIL I CAN REMOVE IT WITH CERTAINTY.After 6 pm the army officially closes traffic in and out of Simkot....
Malpracticing trekking agencies
Saagar Says: Apart from the absentee ticket agencies in Nepalgunj, instability of schedules and weather, maoist extortion, plus the general remoteness of Humla, I have not had any real travel problems in Humla. But while surfing internet for something totally different I came across a...
Saagar Says: Tourists are charged USD 126 or 100 EUR per head for passing the Hilsa border check point and the Kailash trail. Guides, cooks, staff and proters and horse drivers are charged a lower laddered fee in rupees. You may be stopped and charged anywhere along this stretch. It is...
Maps of the Kailash pilgrimage trail
Saagar Says: There are only two maps of the area that are accurate. One is an 1-50000 series maps brought out by Finnida and the government of Nepal, but while extremely accurate these are bulky. If you go the Kailash trek you will need four sheets to cover it all on the Nepal side of...
Saagar Says: A side valley to the Karnali, the Salli Khola valley extends north just a couple of hours out of Kermi. There are dense forests here now being logged fast with the blessings and taxation of the maoists, and transported by yak across Nyalu La and further into Tibet. It is a...
Saagar Says: Upper Salli/Chhungsa Khola basin is called Singjungma. This is a fantastically beautiful area, including Yosemite-scale landscapes and cliffs. Nepal's highest waterfall is probably here, I estimated it to about 520 meters. Why nobody pays any attention to it is beyond me,...
Helpfulness
Fondest memory: We were a small group that was stuck in Simkot, and asked staff of the guest house what they would cook for themselves if they had the chance. Outside the weather was abysmal, and the idea was well perceived. The Nepal Guest House staff cooked up thukpa, home made noodles with chyangra meat and vegetables in a brothy soup. They also provided chayngra momos for starters. We shared the meal and had such a good time. Much recommended!
Written Aug 15, 2006
Humla - Nepal's Back of Beyond
Humla District is a very, very remote place. This region along with Mugu and Dolpo in the Trans-Himalaya are absolutely neglected by the central government and nearly all development authorities. The...
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