Maoist, Nepal

The events around the elections in April 2008 have generally been positive in terms of travellers access and general ease of travel.

There is still a considerable level of violence in Nepal, but this does not rellay affect travellers. The districts of central-eastern Terai is probably best still a no-stopping area for visitors for the time being. In the hills and cities, the maoists political thugs called Young Communist League - YCL - is on a political rampage, somewhat political-cleansing-style. Still, this is not really a threat to tourists, but YCL does not like witnesses, so be careful around them. These thugs may also block roads and access and still conduct some extortionist activities, but generally this "donation" drive in Nepal is vaning.

You can be pretty sure to go trekking in Nepal today without being asked for donations to the maoist cause, however, you can be equally pretty sure that your guest house owner has to pay in order to keep his bones and business intact.

In summary, it can be assumed safe to go trekking and visiting Nepal as a tourist now. But the situation is volatile and best to remain alert. Proliferation of arms, including into the hands of pure bandits and ethnic liberationsits courtesy the maoists has caused a surge in armed crimes, but this is not to any degree affecting visitors to Nepal.

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My first day in Kathmandu meant my first contact with the maoists – they were “requiring” a general strike, apparently because they were not satisfied with the ambassadors recently appointed to a number of European capitals. Groups of teenaged boys marching down the boulevards with red flags with communist symbols, quarrelling with shopkeepers who had not closed the shop already and puncturing tires of the rickshaws they came across. “Better listen than argue them”, a middle aged pedestrian whispered to me while we watched what was happening. At some point, the maoists met a military force blocking the road to the royal palace, and stopped their advance, but continued to shout slogans. A few tires were set on fire, to mark the no-cross area, and both the militaries and the maoists retreated.

In addition to a little adrenaline while watching the events from a rooftop terrace, the strike meant all shops and museums closed for the day, but nothing more.

I’ve heard and seen further meetings and marches during the next 2 weeks I stayed in Nepal, especially in the cities around the Valley, but they were all totally peaceful and consisted mainly of some posters and speakers advocating for their cause. Far from being dangerous, these meetings were an interesting piece of history mingled with local flavour, so many foreigners used to gaze from the sides.

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Faced with the protests of crowds, the king Gyanendra restored democracy in Nepal in April 2006. 2 weeks later, the king was stripped of his immunity from prosecution and taxation, as well as his position as head of the army in April 2006. The parliament assumed the power to set the king’s budget and even to choose the next hair. The word royal whitewashed from government and army signboards across the country and the king awoke to find himself a figurehead.

At the time of writing this, the king was celebrating his 60 birthday, becoming the oldest ruler of Nepal in the last centuries. Western diplomats boycotting the ceremonies.....

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We were stopped by the Maoists twice. Once at a roadblock in Kathmandu. We were asked to make a small donation and it seemed rude to refuse. And once in Sagarmantha National Park. Where we had to pay 100 rupees per person per day that we were hiking. This was mandatory. Plus they carry guns, so who is going to argue? While we were there the government, king and the Maoists reach a seven party power sharing agreement and permanent cease fire of hostilities. This is designed to end the violence, but also the parallel Maoist government operating throughout much of the rural areas of the country. Other than that we were not hassled at all. Basically, they understand that the people need the revenue from tourism, so it would hurt their base of support to demand too much head tax per trekker.

During my time the clashes between the people and the king´s army were finished, the king gave up his totalitarian power and talks between the democratic parties and the Maoist rebels had started. Because of that there were no strict road blockades by the Maoists anymore, but they still stopped our bus on the way between Kathmandu and the Tibetan border asking for a "good-will" donation for their movement. We were stopped by the students movement of the Maoists - they were actually really friendly. So I gave the smallest amount possible (10Rs) but still got a receipt, in case we get stopped again later on the way.

I think they would get even more money by selling those receipts as souvenirs in a "Maoist Shop" in Thamel ;-)

We had a Strange experience on the local bus from Muglin to Sauraha -- just as the bus was leaving ( it had been held up because of a " strike " and was going to head down the Trisuli Highway in convoy ) these guys jumped on with guns !!! -- they were in civilian clothes and wearing bandannas over their lower faces and sunglasses !! I wasn't sure what the H... was going on -- so I just kept quiet !!
Later after reaching Sauraha I found out that they were Army in plain clothes !!!! It would have been nice if someone had told me -- But there again by the army doing this they were in fact putting Everyone on the bus at risk !!!

2006 -- I would like to think that this sort of thing has now stopped with the King now giving certain concessions, But unfortunately I can't guarantee that it has !!??

Nepal is a country that can change in a heartbeat and the last time I visited in January I witnessed this first hand. I walked into an unexpecting demonstration by Maoist supporters (1000 of them) and they were damaging cars and hurting people. Nepal is so fragile that you should contact your local embassy for details about the current security situations throughout the country. Maoists rarely attack tourists but the danger is getting caught up in a cross fire between the police and rebels. Please be careful and stay away from public long distance buses and demonstrations.

The Maoist uprising in rural Nepal had significantly affected most trekking routes, though the Maoists have made it clear that they are not targeting foreign tourists. While no tourists have been harmed by Maoist groups, trekkers have been asked for 'donations', ranging from $5 US to $100 US, when passing through areas under Maoist control. Even in unaffected regions of Annapurna and Everest, telephone booths etc have been destroyed and some police checkpoints are no longer manned. If the fragile cease fire called in January 2003 holds (currenly broke down/resumed/broke down in 2006), things may slowly get back to normal. The bargaining between the corrupt government and th Maoists have resumed with no end in sight. You must be extremely cautious and I trekked the Annapurna circuit and experienced Maoist / insurgency bombing/attack on my trekking village and I walked away unharmed but the threat remains.