DMZ tour is Different from Panmunjeon Tour (DMZ tour doesn't go to Panmunjeom) hence the price is lower in DMZ tours. (Hotel - Imjingak Park - The Bridge of Freedom - DMZ Theater & Exhibition Hall - The 3rd Infiltration Tunnel - Dora Observatory - Dora Station - Pass by Unification Village - Ginseng center (or Amethyst factory) - Hotel) and it costs 48,000 won.
Panmunjeom tours go to JSA, Peace House, Freedom House, Camp Bonifas, Bridge of Return, checkpoint 3 and costs 70,000 won for a half day tour and must be reserved at least 1 day in advance. A popular option is to Combine both and the cost is about 125,000 won.
Caveat: always have your passport ready and wear smart casual clothes (no tank tops, spaghetti straps, flip flops, shorts, t-shirts, etc.) in Camp Bonifas, they will let you sign a waiver to avoid any liability if something happens to you.
From the North, you'll be given the tour by an Major in the army. You'll be taken to the museum where you'll be given the North's version of events during the Korean war and the history of the DMZ in the fifty years since.
The most disconcerting part is having the South Korean troops looking through their binoculars at you, no doubt taking notes.
The "Peace Museum" is set back a little over 1km to the north of the JSA (Joint Security Area). This is the location that the Armistice was signed.
The North Koreans will no doubt like to point out some of the one-sided facts from their propaganda pages.
One such thing is that after the Americans had signed the treaty, they were in such a rush that they did not remember to pick up belongings and had to be reminded to do so.
Another thing the North Koreans may like to point out is that while it was the Americans signing the Armistice, they were too ashamed to bring their own flag, so instead presented the proceedings with the UN flag... after all, as all people know, it was an American led invasion, not a UN sanctioned police action...
The tour you will most likely get is conducted by the UN Forces Korea. A truely brave group of guys. You will be brought in by bus and disembark at the back of Freedom House, the rather large building built to house family reunions for N and S Korean families. It has never been used for this purpose though, as the north will not allow its citizens to cross over. After forming two lines, you will go up a flight of stairs which takes you to ground level. Then onto the MAC room. The acronym stands for Military Armistace Council, and meetings are held in the room. The North Koreans have microphones turned on at all times, so be careful what you say. And don't touch the guards. This will last about 7 minutes. You can take photos in the room. Then it is out, and back to the front of Freedom house. You can take photos for another 7 minutes while not doing anything to stir up controversy. Then it is back into the bus, and off to checkpoint 5 for 10 minutes of photographs, and a quick bus ride past checkpoint 3, the axe murder site and the bridge of no return.
This oddly named building is only a museum to peace because the Armistace was signed in it. Otherwise it is a propoganda exhibit extolling the virtues of Juche Ideology, the ruling Kim family, and the glory of protecting a tree Kim il Sung planted (even though it was older than him) by axe murdering 2 US Army soldiers who were cutting it down. It is a sickening place, where little emphasis is placed on peace.
A female tour guide (there are no male ones) will lead you around and extoll the virtues of Dear Leader and Beloved Leader while explaining how the North is just a pawn of the UN to deprive the Korean people of their identity and culture. It has all the tact and honesty of a Nazi leaflet.
Special attention should be paid though, they take their adoration of their leader very seriously. And there is always going to be an escort with you, even when you have the tour guide. Don't make fun of the leaders, don't rag on the Juche ideology. It will not be good for you to do so, if you know what I mean.
This building serves as mostly offices and a guard post for the North Korean guards along the MDL. It is also a staging area for MAC conference attendees, and a home for northern propoganda. I only got to see the entry hall in the back, and not much else. I believe people from authorized countries get a better look at the building. And what it houses.
Tongak-Gil is the North's Unification Pavilion. Twice a day calls are placed between this building and Peace House, its counterpart on the South side. It plays hosts to meetings to discuss things such as the recent railway link between the North and South. Not really much to see here, just more rooms. Of course, it wasn't really built with tourists in mind. And in my case, many rooms were closed to me, and there were no papers of any kind to be seen.
I've read mixed reports about if the DPRK's flag just outside the JSA is the world's tallest, but I will say that I've seen none that compare to it.