Local traditions and culture in North Korea

Particularly in the city center of P'yongyang you will pass Police Women in the intersections directing traffic. In the outer cities, the traffic control becomes a bit more equal between men and women. But P'yongyang has the vast majority being women.

As with most of the country, electricity is a premium. Street lights and traffic signals are no exception. That and the fact that posting someone in each intersection is a way to keep everyone employed adds to the unique sight of Police Women in their circle.

These traffic officers stand on the little metallic square, in the center of white painted circle, which is likewise in the center of the intersection. If there is any traffic, they must yield to their instructions or be served a violation.

The woman's movements are rigid, sharp, exact... military. They stand, rotate about-face, snap their arms and their baton in militaristic marching fashion. It is a constant ballet for their entire working shift, regardless of the number of vehicles that pass.

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Dotted around the city are small stalls that sell fruit juices and, I think, cider etc. I went up to one that was on the corner of the foreign language bookshop we visited and tried to buy something with the North Korean Won that I obtained from my hotel only to get a horrified look on the face of the lady at the kiosk. Buying something with local money is a definite no-no. On another street corner we sure several kiosks lined together that appeared to be selling fast-food of some sort.

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Unlike in China, where residents cycle, the vast majority of residents appear to walk and bicycles are notable by their absence. People walk around wearing old style clothes that look like they're from the 1940's and 50's and very few people where any bright colours. It's all drab blacks, greys and dark blues with white shirts, almost like a uniform. Young girls in their 20's wear unpleated skirts that are just below the knee. There's also hardly any branded sports clothing or personal items such as bags. The only time we mixed with them was when we visited the Pyongyang Metro and even then it felt like we were on the set of The Trueman Show.

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At a couple of attractions that we visited, we were met by a guide who wore the Korean national costume which, I think, is called the hanbok. Our tour guide wore one on the morning of our departure and also they were for sale in the souvenir shop at the Yanggakdo Hotel. Also young girls were wearing them at a school we visited. Basically, people where them whenever they entertain or put on a performance or a service to impress.

Every adult in North Korea has to wear a pin with Kim Il Sung on it to show their allegiance to him, everyday of their lives. I believe they actually get given them on their 17th birthday and different styles don't actually mean anything but I can't confirm this. All I can confirm is that there is no way of buying them in North Korea. You can buy them in China but it won't be the same as buying them in the country they come from. The photo is of our video camera man who was with us for a week filming us visiting each site.

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Some junctions (intersections) in Pyongyang do have traffic lights but these didn't seem to be working when I was there. Instead, Pyongyang is full of rather attractive, young traffic ladies dressed in a blue skirt with a white uniform jacket and hat. They hold out a red and white baton that glows at night and stand in a circle in the middle of the junction. They wave the baton in the direct that the traffic wants to go in. They do almost robotic like movements with their heads to look at what traffic is approaching from each direction and then swivel themselves around to face the oncoming traffic. An Icelandic guy on my tour got quite carried away by taking pictures of them from our bus and we pointed them out to him as we passed.

Obviously the traveler who finds themselves going to North Korea will tend to be a bit more adventurous, more educated and curious about life on the 'other side'.

Your tours here will all be for an educational and cultural value, since there is not much of a night life or socializing that you will be allowed to participate in.

It should go without saying, but I'll say it anyway, take everything that the guides say with an open mind. I have heard many stories about DPRK from war veterans, South Koreans and North Koreans. They all have their own versions of the truth, their own biases and forms of censorship.

Remember that when you are in North Korea, they will take you to places that they want to show you and tell you information that they want you to believe in. Do not take any of it as the whole truth, but remember what you witnessed and investigate it upon your return home. Many of the bizarre and seemingly unbelievable facts are true, but many of the general stereotypes are misconceptions.

I will not bore you with anecdotes and trivia, but recommend if you are going to travel to DPRK, read as many varying sources as you can to get. As an example, one tangible way to get a counterpoint would be to visit the DMZ area from South Korea and hear the opposition's arguments.

They don't speak languages.
They don't approach you, unless they are in charge to help you (drivers, guides, waitress, shop girls etc.).
In Pyongyang, they even won't look at you easily.
But still, they are curious nation. And the only independent way (probably) to communicate with them is through eye contact (or even a shy smile). Don't try more if your guides are around.