Just reminds me of the nursery rhymes that my kids are always singing, twinkle twinkle little stars..
Never have I seen so many visible stars in the middle of the night. City sky at night is illuminated by lights, polluted by smoke, mixed with dust, which thereby reduces visibility and one may faintly see a shinny star.
Not here. The sky was clear, no lights around, and millions of stars and galaxies. Now I wish I had taken astronomy as an elective at University, and bought a telescope.
Dress Code: As you are
The village Ghazi Khan is situated approx 300 km from Karachi. Best way to go there is if you have your own car.
Alternatively one can also take the bus to the nearest main city, and then alternative vans or jeeps that will take you there.
MEHRAN express (train) goes till Mir Pur Khas and then you find other transportatio. Touring around the village (for most locations) will require 4-wheel drive.
Pir Pagaro or Pir Pagara is the title given to the leader of Muslim Sufi order of Hurs in Sindh province of Pakistan. It comes from Persian word Pir (Chief) and Sindhi word Pagara (Chiefton's Turban).
Per legend, the first Pir Pagaro was such a high scholar that he won many scholarly debates. As per Sindh's tradition, the defeated scholar would submit his turban. With so many turbans on his head, he was declared Pir Pagaro or Chief with Many Turbans.
The current Pir Pagaro is Shah Mardan Shah II he became Pir Pagaro in 1954. His father Pir Syed Sabghatullah Shah Pagaro was hanged on 20th March, 1943 by the British colonial government after armed uprising of Hurs.
The people of this area calls themselves Hurs and are followers of Pir Pagara.
During the British rule of India, Pir Pagaro declared his community "Hur" (free from British slavery). The British tried to crush the uprising and that started an armed resistance by Hurs. Ultimately the British passed the infamous law "Hur Act" where the entire Hur community was declared criminals and were ordered to be shot to death on site. Hurs were ultimately defeated and Pir Pagaro was hanged to death. The elder son is now the current Pir Pagaro.
In Pakistan short history, Hurs have played an important role in defending Pakistan borders, however various political parties have also persecuted them one way or another this community.
Some text taken from wikepdia
Majority of the area around the farmland where we stayed was off the beaten track, and you could only take jeeps (or walk on sand). Keep a lookout for marshy areas near lakes as your journey will come to a sudden halt. Better to have two jeeps as the other will help you go back.
Also be careful of aunties as she will scold you for making pictures/video and not helping to pull the stuck vehicle out.
Hey someone had to document this to show on VT.
The area at night is dominated by packs of stray dogs. These are the same dogs that are running about in the daytime, looking measly, weak and scared. Comes nightfall, they are the king of the jungle. It becomes a bit dangerous to traverse outside your own perimeters.
One of the local told us that these dogs are also good guardian for them as they will not harm the locals (in which area/house they are in) but will pounce on strangers.
Well we did not tried to test this theory at night as we considered ourselves strangers.
Well you are on the farmland. What do you expect!
Enjoy the scenery around you, but also keep an eye on where you are walking/stepping. It is everywhere! Even if you haven’t had the opportunity to step in one, wash your shoes anyway as the smell will linger.
When the lake dies, fresh water supply finishes, the lake starts to produce salt. We visited this one lake where the government has allowed mining (being done for the past 40 years). There are several where this depletion is not allowed.
The workers were pouring salt from the water in a wheel barrow with holes, and dumping on the sides. Trucks then took them to various places where they were dried and packed for sale. We were told that this is pure salt, and required no processing (only drying).
While traveling around the villages, there were various canals supplying water to the farmland. In addition to the canals, there were several small lakes - some fresh water and several salt water lakes. On a short trip, we observed several (5-6) small lakes, and our host told us that there were several others around the villages. The lakes became saltish once its fresh water supplies were cut off, naturally or unnaturally. We did not see any human population around the lakes, mostly cows, buffaloes, sheep, camels, migratory birds, etc.
To reach these lakes one needs a 4-wheel drive as most of the journey is on dirt/sandy track.
These lakes were after the fertile farmland finished, and sandy dunes starts (start of Thar Desert)